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I am putting a double banjo bolt and running two brake lines down from the front brake master cylinder to the two front brakes as the left front was disabled when I bought the bike.[Hope this will work]

 

Question: When I took the left front brake line off, a small pin fell out. [looks like a flat head nail with the flat head part facing toward the line. Is there a pin in there that broke off?

 

 

I don't think so, not at the caliper. I think a small nail may have somehow gotten wedged behind your banjo.

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Question: When I took the left front brake line off, a small pin fell out. [looks like a flat head nail with the flat head part facing toward the line. Is there a pin in there that broke off?

 

I am certain that is not part of OEM brake system. Was this nail actually inserted into the brake line? Perhaps, it was someone's attempt to block off the brake line? I cannot fathom why one would do so, though.

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I am certain that is not part of OEM brake system. Was this nail actually inserted into the brake line? Perhaps, it was someone's attempt to block off the brake line? I cannot fathom why one would do so, though.

 

 

Yes it was stuck in the caliper. I think your right, some one is blocking fluid. That line was already cut and crimped off at the proportioning valve though. Maybe if the pistons are not frozen it will be OK. Right! Not the kind of luck I have.

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Hey Motorcycle Jockey,

 

I used almost exactly the same setup as you describe on my '84...with mixed results. (All because I did not like the concept of the linked braking system.)

 

I ran 1 line from the front master all the way down to the right caliper. Then a double banjo at the right caliper and a line up over the fender to the left caliper. Everything fit perfectly and looks fine to me.

 

The rear flexible line remained the same, but the proportioning valve was gutted and the extra port plugged. (The junction block under the fairing was also removed.)

 

Now the results! The front brakes are ok, but really lack the appropriate stopping power. The front master is now pushing on twice the caliper so it's difficult to make a sudden stop. Difficult but not impossible, it just takes more pull force than you'd expect. The rear brakes are very "wooden", meaning that when you push on the rear you go from no brake to full brake too quickly. There is very little you can do to feather the brake or apply it gently.

 

This setup cost me nothing in new parts and I think I got my money's worth. I started cheap, trying to not invest too much in the bike since it was new to me and I didn't really know how long I would keep it. But now I'm addicted. I've learned to make it work by applying the front firmly and the rear lightly, but after 2 years of riding it this way I'm making plans to upgrade...

 

If you upgrade to non-linked and NOT use R1 calipers. Then you must replace the original 14mm master cyl. with a 16mm- 5/8" bore type. A Virago 1100 or 750 from the 90's with dual disc has the exact master you would need. All masters are marked with bore size...under them near the port or banjo bolt.

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  • 4 weeks later...
If you upgrade to non-linked and NOT use R1 calipers. Then you must replace the original 14mm master cyl. with a 16mm- 5/8" bore type. A Virago 1100 or 750 from the 90's with dual disc has the exact master you would need. All masters are marked with bore size...under them near the port or banjo bolt.

 

 

Did you have any problem bleeding your front brakes after the de-linking? I have been working on mine for about two weeks. I tried the vacume bleeder, slandered bleeding, taped the brake lever shut over night for the air to rise to the top, I don't see any leaks, cleaned the calipers and the right front seems to bleed OK but the left won't bleed all the air out. :confused24:

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Did you have any problem bleeding your front brakes after the de-linking? I have been working on mine for about two weeks. I tried the vacume bleeder, slandered bleeding, taped the brake lever shut over night for the air to rise to the top, I don't see any leaks, cleaned the calipers and the right front seems to bleed OK but the left won't bleed all the air out. :confused24:

 

Bleeding my '85 after de-linking took a couple of days. I had to pump up the brakes, tie the brake handle and leave it overnight. Then I loosened the banjo fitting at the front master (highest point in the brake system) and bleed a little air. I pumped it up again and let it sit overnight a second time. Then I had enough brake to pump fluid through the system and bleed normally.

:detective:

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  • 9 months later...

resurrecting this topic, anyone have pics of the de-linked set up that uses the double banjo either at the front master cyl or at the front caliper? I am heading down this road on my '84. from what I can tell the rear brake line will have to be longer than the current one as it wont reach the "front" opening, is that true? is the size of the dbl banjo bolt the same whether it is at the caliper or master cyl? 10mm x 1.25?

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The de-linking procedure eliminates the fluid line running from the rear master cylinder. That line can be removed and the port on the rear master plugged. If a double banjo setup is used at the front master a duplicate line assembly will need to be installed to the left front caliper. If a double banjo setup at the right front caliper is used then a shorter line from the right to left calipers will need to be installed.

 

The original junction block, fork mounted between the front master and the right front caliper, can be replaced with one from a VMAX that gives two outlets that would supply both front calipers from the single input from the front master. A duplicate of the right lower line is then used on the left. You would need to acquire only three parts, right front lower line, VMax splitter and a plug for the rear master. If you chose the front splitter conversion I may have a right lower line in my spare parts box that you can have.

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lsutley - thank you for that little tidbit on the vmax junction block.

 

on the rear, this is where the front brake comes into the rear m/c.

 

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/3222e261-63ad-4eba-9d3a-2c466d49e175_zpsbb142f5a.jpg

 

this is where the rear is coming into the rear m/c block

 

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/50c22693-c4f7-42a2-99aa-33ff19e70663_zps9be45810.jpg

 

I tried to take the rear line off and hook it to where the front is mounted but it doesn't reach. so can I just plug where the front is mounted?

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I cheated and used the kit from skydoc17 with the SS braided lines(nice setup) but the process can be accomplished on the cheap by using a Vmax splitter and a second OEM line for the right caliper. I am not sure if the OEM line from the rear caliper can be re-purposed for any part of this conversion as I did not give that a try.

delink 2.jpg

delink 1.jpg

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The MKII has a 14mm front master cylinder cylinder bore. The need to change this is debatable. Some say you must, some say to leave it.

 

Thanks Kevin. I am planning to do a serious brake upgrade this winter and folk rebuild going to MKII forks. I plan on doing the SS lines and caliper upgrades. I am still a little on the fence about delinking the brakes, but I probably will.

RandyA

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  • 1 month later...

R6 calipers will work also, lots of blue dots real cheap on ebay. roughly 98 to 2004 is what I read and used to find mine for my upgrade. Average I have seen is $20 - $40 US for a pair shipped. I bought my gold dots on the high end of that scale and they are like new and really clean but do not seem to be as common just search YZF. Again this is what I have read and the info I used for my upgrade from this forum, lots of educated members here.

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  • 5 years later...

Thought I'd mention, before doing a delink try this: The front brake lever has an adjustment screw. Ignore the boilerplate from Yamaha and adjust the lever so the reach is comfortable when you have full brakes applied. I did this last night, turned it out prolly three full turns, even with grip puppies, still had plenty of lever to apply force without hitting the grip. I might just be able to live with the split braking system now. I don't ride the Venture for corner strafing. Hand lever is enough for most stops and add the foot for serious gotta haul it down now moments.

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