Dielectric Grease

[uechi kid]

I just received my Mic Mutes the other day and I'm getting ready to install them. I've read that if you're going to split the fairing you might as well go through all the electric connections and make sure they are clean. I have also read that you should use dielectric grease to keep them from corroding. I have also read that you shouldn't get the grease on the connector pins just on the rubber boots.

Any advice here would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich

[Black Owl]

I have also read that you should use dielectric grease to keep them from corroding. I have also read that you shouldn't get the grease on the connector pins just on the rubber boots. Rich

 

Well Rich, not sure where you read that only use dielectic greae on the rubber boots. Rubber does not corrode.

 

No problem with using it directly on the connections.

[uechi kid]

I read it at a marine forum. They said that the dielectric grease is use to prevent moisture from getting in and since it's non-conductive can reduce the connections ability to transfer electricity.

[LilBeaver]

The only 'problem' you may encounter when using it directly on the connectors (where it ought to be used) is if you put too much of it on. You want enough to provide a very light coat, but it IS an insulator - so use it sparingly but keep in mind that the metal on metal contacts are pretty tight so the grease will move as they get plugged in. If you are unsure (or even if you just want to potentially save yourself from having to take it all part again) you can do the following:

1) Disconnect and reconnect each connector several times (to clean the pins)

2) Spray some QD Electric contact cleaner (or equivalent electric contact cleaner) rather liberally on both the male and female connectors - Use caution as you probably don't want this stuff touching a painted (or plastic) surface for an extended period of time.

3) Connect and disconnect several times

4) use compressed air to blow out each side (and to make sure the cleaner is completely dried)

5) Put a dab of the grease on each connector before reconnecting -- disconnect and connect one more time if you'd like to make sure that you have good electrical contact in each connector and wipe up the excess grease (off of the rubber housings)

6) Turn the bike to the ACC position and test your radio, communications, etc.

7) If all seems to function appropriately, then turn bike off and reassemble. If NOT, then disconnect the connectors, start over but use less grease.

 

Other methods for doing this exist, this simply is what I find works for me.

 

[CaptainJoe]

I agree with what was written above...

 

Suggestion:

Buy the dielectric grease at Lowes.... Its like $5 and in a rectangular tube with nice resealable nozzel.

:mo money:I was Paying $12 for the same amount at Goldfarb electric...

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Yep...thats the way to do it..

 

By the way Rick, wanna ride over to the Cannonball gathering in Clovis monday afternoon? By way of Ruisdoso over the weekend?

 

 

http://www.motorcyclecannonball.com/

 

http://www.motorcyclerally.com/

[uechi kid]

Thanks everyone. I knew I could get the straight scoop here. You guys are great.

[skydoc_17]

I am not trying to "nit pick" or start a "pissin' match" here but the dielectric grease that is sold at most auto parts stores is designed to "insulate" and waterproof things like spark plug boots and the plastic connectors that the connecting pins are housed in. Conductive Grease on the other hand is specifically designed to be placed inside of electrical connections. It conducts electricity and keeps water and corrosion from forming inside of electrical connections. It is pricey in comparison to the dielectric grease but functions MUCH better. It's acid base strips away corrosion and makes copper connections look like new. I have purchased it at electronic supply stores and have seen it at marine supply stores for boat trailers that are submerged into water. I use the Conductive Grease on every electrical project I do here at the "Little shop by the creek" and have had excellent results with it.

Just an FYI,

Earl

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I am not trying to "nit pick" or start a "pissin' match" here but the dielectric grease that is sold at most auto parts stores is designed to "insulate" and waterproof things like spark plug boots and the plastic connectors that the connecting pins are housed in. Conductive Grease on the other hand is specifically designed to be placed inside of electrical connections. It conducts electricity and keeps water and corrosion from forming inside of electrical connections. It is pricey in comparison to the dielectric grease but functions MUCH better. It's acid base strips away corrosion and makes copper connections look like new. I have purchased it at electronic supply stores and have seen it at marine supply stores for boat trailers that are submerged into water. I use the Conductive Grease on every electrical project I do here at the "Little shop by the creek" and have had excellent results with it.

Just an FYI,

Earl

 

Conductive grease is fine in certain situations, but not in small multi-pin connectors. And in this case, those round connectors are subject to only occasional indirect douses of water, say, from a high pressure hose directed at the outside of the fairing, or the occasional frog-floating downpour. In this application we are primarily looking to reduce the incursion of contaminated splashes of moisture, not protect against complete submersion.

 

This warning addresses this:

 

Warning:

To avoid shock or possible fire, stop power to any system before applying conductive grease. Insure positive and negative contacts remain isolated. Improper use can result in shorting, arcing, or shock.

 

Source:

http://www.2spi.com/catalog/vac/silver-filled-grease-techdata.html

 

 

And BTW...anything with an acid base is not for use on electronic connections...just like acid core solder, or standard silicone RTV, it can cause problems with electronic (small signal) applications.

 

http://www.logwell.com/tech/servtips/RTV.html

Edited September 14, 2010 by tx2sturgis

[V7Goose]

All electrical conduction is through PHYSICAL CONTACT between two metal pieces, not through grease or other magic substances. The problem we often have is surface corrosion on the contact points in various plugs. Even when the initial contact is good, corrosion (same as rust) can work its way along a piece of metal and eventually build up an insulating layer between the two pieces. Just unplugging and replugging causes the pins to scrape off the surface corrosion and make it work properly again. Dielectric grease does nothing to improve the connection between the pins, but it DOES stop the surface from corroding and interfering with the metal contact.

Goose

[Guest tx2sturgis]

All electrical conduction is through PHYSICAL CONTACT between two metal pieces, not through grease or other magic substances. The problem we often have is surface corrosion on the contact points in various plugs. Even when the initial contact is good, corrosion (same as rust) can work its way along a piece of metal and eventually build up an insulating layer between the two pieces. Just unplugging and replugging causes the pins to scrape off the surface corrosion and make it work properly again. Dielectric grease does nothing to improve the connection between the pins, but it DOES stop the surface from corroding and interfering with the metal contact.

Goose

 

 

 

 

That first sentence is not exactly right, but the rest of the statement is true here. In this situation, we're trying to reduce those occasional splashes of dirty water from ending up where we dont want them, that is, in the connectors that route electrical signals and power to and from the stereo, CB, and tape deck, and to and from the control head, the PTT button and intercom lines, and the speakers. Also, the grease forms a barrier so that corrosion has a more difficult time getting started. The last sentence is 100% correct.

 

[saddlebum]

In my experience dielectric grease or even grotes electical protective grease are great for high voltage and amperage connections. but avoid using it on low voltage electronic connections. These circuits only run 5 or less volts and the amperage load is in the milliamps. Some of these circuits are data link wires between modules or low voltage reference signals between modules and sensors.

[jlh3rd]

i agree with dielectric grease not being conductive.......so why did it fix my connections up in the fairing for the radio system....did it just snug things up ?