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Are there no spacers


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On ask after disassembling and reassembling the honda I was feeling confident so I removed both tires and was looking everything over there is two washers that fell when I pulled the axle just wondering where there supposed to go. Also thought my gears looked good in the back I have some grease should I use a specific type.fdfe1e47d4815cbf542cb29ab8f929ee.jpgb59596328016f613220d2dab3c57f656.jpgc82c7652d5f7f56203eb94e011af1415.jpg393eb16df11fc1e2c383a3506190e92f.jpg

 

"Never ride faster then your guardian angel can fly."

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Have you tried looking at the parts diagram on partzilla or similar site?

 

Doh!! Ok I am guessing most are still attached to the wheel, I have the service manual for the bike, I just couldn't get it to open earlier. Was trying to Open the wrong thing on one drive.. My Bad it also states in there to use Lightweight Lithium grease. Never realized there was really a light weight. The book don't really state where the washer goes on the right side. Basically My question is where does that washer go when it is assembled on the bike. And is my Lithuim grease ok to use..

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They go on both sides of the rear wheel. The one of the differential side is between the castle nut and hub, the one of the right side goes between the frame and the rear caliper support. The rear caliper support is next to the wheel hub.

Also it is good idea to remove the Clutch Hub and but a little grease on the pins. There is a circlip that hold it in place and once you remove that is should pull off. Also on your 83, you need to grease the spines and gears on both ends of the drive shaft.

Hope that helps

Rick F.

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When you pull the drive shaft out of the u-joint, grease the spines on that end of the drive shaft.. Least I do that when I have my drive shaft out of the yoke as it does move around a bit in the yoke up there..

 

Rick F.

 

 

How do i get to the front splines

 

"Never ride faster then your guardian angel can fly."

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To get to the 'front' splines, you take off the 4 nuts (14mm head) that hold the shaft drive unit, and then pull it rearward. You've got a Mk. I, so grease the front splines with heavy molybendum disulfide grease. Avoid the molybendum disulfide grease that is for the u-joints for a front wheel drive car because it's too thin and will run out of the coupling. Most of us also grease the drive shaft front splines (the ones that go into the u-joint yoke).

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I have a MK2, but it is my understand from the forum here that the grease zerk doesnt really do a good job of lubing the the differential end of the drive shaft. Yamaha must have thought so also as the MK IIs have an oil seal and use the differential gear lube to keep things lubricated on that end of the drive shaft.

I know it is a lot of work but I think you be better off to do it now to be safe..

Rick F.

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I have a MK2, but it is my understand from the forum here that the grease zerk doesnt really do a good job of lubing the the differential end of the drive shaft. Yamaha must have thought so also as the MK IIs have an oil seal and use the differential gear lube to keep things lubricated on that end of the drive shaft.

I know it is a lot of work but I think you be better off to do it now to be safe..

Rick F.

 

Yeah I had figured out where the washer went and had the tire back on by the time you responded. It is a small pain removing the tires but would rather do that then remove the carbs again.. I just wanted to get it out and check out the brakes, and get them all bleed out, I was gonna go ahead and put my muffler gaskets in but I couldn't find them but now I am glad I haven't yet. But my confidence as for myself working on this bike is doubled since the rebuild of the Rebel. Now it has gotten even better, the only pain I found was trying to get the splines lined up in everything. I also want to get the Gear oil changed out in the back. But I must say after the maintenance today the bike feels alot smoother, specially with the 9 yr old Metzler off the back. I may tackle that stuff when the rain hits next week should only take part of a day to do. Thanks for the Help Rick. Now just to bust the cap to the gear oil loose.:Avatars_Gee_George:

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I have a MK2, but it is my understand from the forum here that the grease zerk doesnt really do a good job of lubing the the differential end of the drive shaft. Yamaha must have thought so also as the MK IIs have an oil seal and use the differential gear lube to keep things lubricated on that end of the drive shaft.

I know it is a lot of work but I think you be better off to do it now to be safe..

Rick F.

 

Ok today I went ahead and pulled the wheel back and greased everything. Now here is the silly question I have when I pulled the wheel down there was glob of grease in the spot where that zerk goes in. I kind of spread that all around pulled the drive line out and greased up in there. Put it all back together, but never did find this hole I could look thru to see when I had the line lined up with the ujoint. I went by feel and had it in gear to know when I had it in where it was supposed to go. But got all that done and its all back together now. Gear oil is changed out now but does that crap stink!!!

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The hole has a plug in it and sits on top of the swing arm right above the U-joint. I found a photo of a swing arm and have circle the plug for you. Just pop out the plug and you have access to the U-joint in there and I have also had luck pulling bback the rubber boot and then taking a screwdriver or drift and inserting it between the u-joint and yoke and that can help to align the u-joint and the driveshaft for easier insertion.

Hope that helps.

Rick F.

Inkeds-l1600_LI (Medium).jpg

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The hole has a plug in it and sits on top of the swing arm right above the U-joint. I found a photo of a swing arm and have circle the plug for you. Just pop out the plug and you have access to the U-joint in there and I have also had luck pulling bback the rubber boot and then taking a screwdriver or drift and inserting it between the u-joint and yoke and that can help to align the u-joint and the driveshaft for easier insertion.

Hope that helps.

Rick F.

 

Lol well.... I done got everything back together and I didnt realize that was there probably cause there is a floorboard in the way... So on to the next issue. I have been bleeding the rear pedal for 2 hours now. My arms are feeling the burn:Avatars_Gee_George: so I shut everything up, gonna retry in the morning. I was trying to find the bleeder around the stem. Evedently that is in MKII thing. I may ride it out to my buddies house tomorrow and have him push the pedal for me. The rear brake is easy but I think I will be using up all my brake fluid just to get the pedal all bleed out. I don't even know how air got in there in the first place. All I did was remove the rear wheel to get the stuff all lubed up, I had to reach thru a glob of grease to pull out the drive shaft. I guess they didn't think about greasing up the front of it at all... Anyways I am going to bed if my brain will let me. My only problem when I know I have unfinished busisness its hard to sleep.:hurts:

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Lol well.... I done got everything back together and I didnt realize that was there probably cause there is a floorboard in the way... So on to the next issue. I have been bleeding the rear pedal for 2 hours now. My arms are feeling the burn:Avatars_Gee_George: so I shut everything up, gonna retry in the morning. I was trying to find the bleeder around the stem. Evedently that is in MKII thing.
That's right, MkII have the bleeder at the stem but the MkI does not. Apparently there is a fitting, proportioning valve maybe, near the bottom of the stem where you can crack the connection to bleed the front brake line. I think Puc posted a pic of it somewhere in the massive number of posts on here. Should be able to find it by following the brake line tube. Might be a bit difficult to see since it is not out in the clear. Someone who has a MkI should be able to point you to it better than I can.
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