RLU BYPASS question

I have this info from bypass surgery on an 89. Does it matter if you do the bypass before or after the 8 pin connector? The reason I ask is because I can slide the RL you off of the hanger and pull it out through the headlight area to do the soldering and connections but would have to pull the right side of the fairing off to do it ahead of the connector and remove the connector.

 

The primary reason that I'm going to bypass it is because I constantly get false headlight warning light and even though both high and low beams will work, when the white warning light comes on my low beam cuts to just barely on and I have to run high beam all the time. My understanding is with this bypass I could switch back and forth from high to low and get rid of the warning light unless there's actually an issue with the headlamp.

 

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I know I got a backwards, upside down and inside out way of thinking about this kind of stuff and often make no sense but I will step out on the perverbial limb one more time and say,,, if it were mine, I would rather trim the pig tail off the device (RLU in this case) and do my jumpering on the bench with the pig tail and then plug the pig tail back into the terminal on the main harness then I would alter the main harness as shown in the pic... Of course,,,, you might wanna consider the source of this idea before you act on it Ty

:sign yeah that:

 

I had to remove my RLU because I put in a HID headlight and it was not compatible with the RLU system.

The RLU does not turn on the warning light or light the headlight icon on the dash. The RLUs only indicator is the white headlight light on the dash. The red flashing warning light and the dash icon are controlled by the CMU.

What Puc is describing is how I did mine. I cut the pigtail off of a RLU did all of the jumping and then just plugged the jumpered connector back in. This way IF someone ever want to go back to the stock setup it is just a matter of plugging in an RLU. The electricity in the wires has no idea if you did the jumpers before or after the connector unless your connector has dirty contacts.

 

On the other hand you can make more reliable connections by eliminating a 30 year old connector. This would be a reason to chop up your harnees and not do the connector thing.

 

One you remove the RLU if a headlight filament burns out, it will get real dark real fast if it is night time. This can be a real pucker factor if you are going around a curve at 60 MPH on a dark country road, Trust me.

 

Do I have you completely cornfused now?

:sign yeah that:

 

I had to remove my RLU because I put in a HID headlight and it was not compatible with the RLU system.

The RLU does not turn on the warning light or light the headlight icon on the dash. The RLUs only indicator is the white headlight light on the dash. The red flashing warning light and the dash icon are controlled by the CMU.

What Puc is describing is how I did mine. I cut the pigtail off of a RLU did all of the jumping and then just plugged the jumpered connector back in. This way IF someone ever want to go back to the stock setup it is just a matter of plugging in an RLU. The electricity in the wires has no idea if you did the jumpers before or after the connector unless your connector has dirty contacts.

 

On the other hand you can make more reliable connections by eliminating a 30 year old connector. This would be a reason to chop up your harnees and not do the connector thing.

 

One you remove the RLU if a headlight filament burns out, it will get real dark real fast if it is night time. This can be a real pucker factor if you are going around a curve at 60 MPH on a dark country road, Trust me.

 

Do I have you completely cornfused now?

 

,,,,,,,,,, the ONLY place in all that where I personally even started to get cornfused was the part where you said "trust me"... Maybe it's cause the last time I did that I ended up having to dig out from under 10' of 100% pure Wisconsin White Wash and that really was not that much fun:missingtooth:... Maybe I need to work on my anti grudge holding device some here and know that I can trust my neighbor once again and be rest assured in knowing that 10' drift was just an accident and he will never ever do that again!!

"The RLU does not turn on the warning light or light the headlight icon on the dash. The RLUs only indicator is the white headlight light on the dash. The red flashing warning light and the dash icon are controlled by the CMU."

 

I assumed the red warning light flashing occurs any time any of the other indicators on the CMU are showing their little icons. As I mentioned 90% of the time my low beam just does a very low glow and doesn't project any light but high beam works great. The headlamp indicator on the CMU goes on and off at random and the same with the white indicator. I can flip from high beam to low beam and the head lamp indicator on the CMU goes out but the white light stays on and the low beam just glows. Of course that's all very hard to prove while on the road but that's what happens when I'm riding it. I haven't had a night ride yet as the deer and turkeys have been quite active. I'm also going to have to pull the gas Gauge out of the tank and see what I can do to fix that and do something about the switch inside the right hand master cylinder that keeps saying I'm low on brake fluid when I'm not before I can hope to get rid of the flashing red warning light.

 

Oh and there is no battery indicator deal that connects or sits on or near my battery so my battery light comes on and off which I don't understand.

 

It's funny but most of the time my line of sight eliminates that red flashing light until I look down a little ways. It must sit in one of my blind spots or something cuz it's funny.

 

I hate the red blinking light, especially when I'm passing folks and it looks like there may be some problem with my motorcycle. And I pass folks a lot!

 

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"The RLU does not turn on the warning light or light the headlight icon on the dash. The RLUs only indicator is the white headlight light on the dash. The red flashing warning light and the dash icon are controlled by the CMU."

 

I assumed the red warning light flashing occurs any time any of the other indicators on the CMU are showing their little icons. As I mentioned 90% of the time my low beam just does a very low glow and doesn't project any light but high beam works great. The headlamp indicator on the CMU goes on and off at random and the same with the white indicator. I can flip from high beam to low beam and the head lamp indicator on the CMU goes out but the white light stays on and the low beam just glows. Of course that's all very hard to prove while on the road but that's what happens when I'm riding it. I haven't had a night ride yet as the deer and turkeys have been quite active. I'm also going to have to pull the gas Gauge out of the tank and see what I can do to fix that and do something about the switch inside the right hand master cylinder that keeps saying I'm low on brake fluid when I'm not before I can hope to get rid of the flashing red warning light.

 

Oh and there is no battery indicator deal that connects or sits on or near my battery so my battery light comes on and off which I don't understand.

 

It's funny but most of the time my line of sight eliminates that red flashing light until I look down a little ways. It must sit in one of my blind spots or something cuz it's funny.

 

I hate the red blinking light, especially when I'm passing folks and it looks like there may be some problem with my motorcycle. And I pass folks a lot!

 

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I believe that warning is coming from the rear brake master cylinder. As far as the weak low beam, is it possible you've got the wrong headlight in, or the power to the low beam damaged at all

"The RLU does not turn on the warning light or light the headlight icon on the dash. The RLUs only indicator is the white headlight light on the dash. The red flashing warning light and the dash icon are controlled by the CMU."

 

I assumed the red warning light flashing occurs any time any of the other indicators on the CMU are showing their little icons. As I mentioned 90% of the time my low beam just does a very low glow and doesn't project any light but high beam works great. The headlamp indicator on the CMU goes on and off at random and the same with the white indicator. I can flip from high beam to low beam and the head lamp indicator on the CMU goes out but the white light stays on and the low beam just glows. Of course that's all very hard to prove while on the road but that's what happens when I'm riding it. I haven't had a night ride yet as the deer and turkeys have been quite active. I'm aalso going to have to pull the gas Gauge out of the tank and see what I can do to fix that and do something about the switch inside the right hand master cylinder that keeps saying I'm low on brake fluid when I'm not before I can hope to get rid of the flashing red warning light.

 

Oh and there is no battery indicator deal that connects or sits on or near my battery so my battery light comes on and off which I don't understand.

 

It's funny but most of the time my line of sight eliminates that red flashing light until I look down a little ways. It must sit in one of my blind spots or something cuz it's funny.

 

I hate the red blinking light, especially when I'm passing folks and it looks like there may be some problem with my motorcycle. And I pass folks a lot!

 

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Years ago, on one of my 400 dollar, short shift thru the blown 2nd gear, earlier 1st Gens I ran out the last 200k miles of its life with a hunk of black electrical tape over that flashing red light cause I decided it was more fun to ride the thing then it was to play hide and seek with Murphy and his little tea party with his band of road gremlins inside the electrical system of that old scoot:7_2_104[1]:

No. I did have to replace the connector to the headlamp but everything test it out fine and sometimes it will actually work like it's supposed to but maybe once out of 10 times. The headlamp has less than 40 hours on it.

I believe that warning is coming from the rear brake master cylinder. As far as the weak low beam, is it possible you've got the wrong headlight in, or the power to the low beam damaged at all

 

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Years ago, on one of my 400 dollar, short shift thru the blown 2nd gear, earlier 1st Gens I ran out the last 200k miles of its life with a hunk of black electrical tape over that flashing red light cause I decided it was more fun to ride the thing then it was to play hide and seek with Murphy and his little tea party with his band of road gremlins inside the electrical system of that old scoot:7_2_104[1]:

I have to ask did you open up the dash to put the tape inside over the red light itself or did you just tape on the outside cover of it? Cuz that would be tacky, and we all know how you feel about function over form!

 

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I believe that warning is coming from the rear brake master cylinder. As far as the weak low beam, is it possible you've got the wrong headlight in, or the power to the low beam damaged at all

I have gone so far as to remove the handle bar to make the handlebar Reservoir perfectly level and filled to overflowing. I always put plastic bag under everything and wrap up the handle bar before I open that sucker... as far as the rear master cylinder I have filled that to overflowing from the little fill hole on the side while the bikes on the kickstand so that that is the highest point it could possibly be and neither of those has lost any fluid and that light on the CMU continues to stay lit. I don't know what else to do as I can't take the top off of my rear master without boogering the screws or pulling the gas tank for better access and maybe not booger the screws. I have drilled out my share of screws in master cylinders for this bikes lifetime. You probably won't remember but I also have a broken titanium bit inside the crushed exposed end of a bolt in a clutch master that may never get used again but it has been sitting on my toolmaker friend's desk since March 5th. Our good friend puc was kind enough to send me one from one of his bikes and it continues to work perfectly so I don't pressure my friend to fix the other one

 

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As part of my installing the HID headlight I also had to jumper the sensors in the CMU so that the blinking red light would not come on.

 

It sounds like you have a number of issues going on that any one of which could make that blinking red light turn on. On my bike it will blink for a couple of minutes and then at least it becomes a solid red light so you do not have to put up with the blinking. I am not sure if the MK Is do that to.

 

Trying to tackle all the issues at once will make you crazy. Trust Me..... Pick one and we can help you over come it, and then we can move to the next issue. @cowpuc

I have gone so far as to remove the handle bar to make the handlebar Reservoir perfectly level and filled to overflowing. I always put plastic bag under everything and wrap up the handle bar before I open that sucker... as far as the rear master cylinder I have filled that to overflowing from the little fill hole on the side while the bikes on the kickstand so that that is the highest point it could possibly be and neither of those has lost any fluid and that light on the CMU continues to stay lit. I don't know what else to do as I can't take the top off of my rear master without boogering the screws or pulling the gas tank for better access and maybe not booger the screws. I have drilled out my share of screws in master cylinders for this bikes lifetime. You probably won't remember but I also have a broken titanium bit inside the crushed exposed end of a bolt in a clutch master that may never get used again but it has been sitting on my toolmaker friend's desk since March 5th. Our good friend puc was kind enough to send me one from one of his bikes and it continues to work perfectly so I don't pressure my friend to fix the other one

 

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Have you given the rear master a few raps with a little hammer and punch? You might get just lucky enough for the little level sensor to break free.

I have to ask did you open up the dash to put the tape inside over the red light itself or did you just tape on the outside cover of it? Cuz that would be tacky, and we all know how you feel about function over form!

 

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Nahhh,,, I figured drilling a hole thru the dash to bust that little red one eyed monster was more trouble than it was worth (and probably let water in and create other more serious issues) so I just taped over the thing on the outside.. Kind of cool too because late at night,, after "magic hour" and just when we were tired of riding 16 or 18 hours and covering a thousand miles or so,,, that little red one eyed monster could still be seen trying to peek around the tape..... Coulda made a bigger patch of tape but I sort of enjoyed teasing em...

Nahhh,,, I figured drilling a hole thru the dash to bust that little red one eyed monster was more trouble than it was worth (and probably let water in and create other more serious issues) so I just taped over the thing on the outside.. Kind of cool too because late at night,, after "magic hour" and just when we were tired of riding 16 or 18 hours and covering a thousand miles or so,,, that little red one eyed monster could still be seen trying to peek around the tape..... Coulda made a bigger patch of tape but I sort of enjoyed teasing em...

I have never seen my little red light stay constantly lit. It just blinks. I have seen where others mentioned something about it staying on but have no idea what that would indicate or what the difference is between blinking and on if someone could explain that I'd appreciate it

 

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I have never seen my little red light stay constantly lit. It just blinks. I have seen where others mentioned something about it staying on but have no idea what that would indicate or what the difference is between blinking and on if someone could explain that I'd appreciate it

 

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If you ride after the low fuel indicator light starts flashing eventually it was just stay lit. Its saying HEY DUMMY GET SOME GAS IN ME!!!

If you ride after the low fuel indicator light starts flashing eventually it was just stay lit. Its saying HEY DUMMY GET SOME GAS IN ME!!!

You really think she knows my nickname?

 

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If you ride after the low fuel indicator light starts flashing eventually it was just stay lit. Its saying HEY DUMMY GET SOME GAS IN ME!!!

 

You really think she knows my nickname?

 

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Your nickname is "Gas"?? Never knew that,,, here I been calling ya Ty all this time....

Well that was interesting. I followed the RLU bypass instructions as written and pictured above by removing the rlu side of the connection so that I could leave the plug. In the photo above, the wire that is listed below the photo as green and white is actually green/red just like in the photo. And now my high beam indicator is actually the white warning light next to the high beam indicator light and the high beam indicator does not light up. I am however going to call this a win because I have both high and low beams available through my handlebar switch. I guess I would suggest that someone using that in the future and hopefully looking at this thread before they do it would leave the yellow green wire out of the equation and to connect the yellow to the blue red wires and it should work properly. I'm not going to go back and do it at this point because I just put it all back together before I tested it

 

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Edited May 17, 2018 by s.tyler58

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Edited May 17, 2018 by s.tyler58
Just wrong.

Interesting I twisted two wires together on mine and works perfectly...

 

Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face.

Well that was interesting. I followed the RLU bypass instructions as written and pictured above by removing the rlu side of the connection so that I could leave the plug. In the photo above, the wire that is listed below the photo as green and white is actually green/red just like in the photo. And now my high beam indicator is actually the white warning light next to the high beam indicator light and the high beam indicator does not light up.

If the white light has replaced the blue light then it is possible the jumpers were not put in correctly. However, if the white light is now working as the high beam indicator like the blue light then you can switch the bulbs around in the panel. Or just accept the white light as good enough.

I think I can live with the white light for the summer by the way I did try the yellow wire instead of the yellow green wire but then I didn't have high or low beam for some reason which made no sense at all. The electrical diagram shows the yellow wire going to the high beam indicator. The yellow green does not but I had to switch everything back to the way it is in the picture and now I have high beam low beam and a white high beam indicator. Also put on the new radiator from Utah and it's not leaking! I also pulled apart my clutch side switches and clean them all up. I just might not get a blister on my turn signal thumb today!

 

It's finally time to ride today before the rain takes the weekend away from us! Two and a half months with no job to go to (that's not to say I haven't been working constantly around here) I've had one weekend and this weekend to ride so it's going to rain this weekend.

 

I still do not have a start date although I would imagine it would be by the latest the middle of next week.

If the white light has replaced the blue light then it is possible the jumpers were not put in correctly. However, if the white light is now working as the high beam indicator like the blue light then you can switch the bulbs around in the panel. Or just accept the white light as good enough.

 

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So i just did this bypass as indicated earlier.. I too have the white light come on with high beam and red warning light is now on.Is there a fix for this? I prefer not to have the red warning light on all the time.. and I would prefer the blue light on for high beams..

 

Suggestions.?

So i just did this bypass as indicated earlier.. I too have the white light come on with high beam and red warning light is now on.Is there a fix for this? I prefer not to have the red warning light on all the time.. and I would prefer the blue light on for high beams..

 

Suggestions.?

If the bulb is an H4 and the RLU bypass has been done correctly then the warning light should not come on. I did this mod on my 90 and vaguely recall having to switch the bulbs from blue to white. No warning light came on. All the bulbs are white lights so you just switch the bulb sockets to make the blue come on for high. The bypass was done by removing the RLU and jumping the remaining RLU socket.