abusive throttle cranker

In my experience u mess with a cop u will LOSE! He will make it his personal business to assure it! Cops generally speaking have an ego problem.

That diaphragm looks useable. In my case the small washer was on top of the circlip. I was running hot and lean so I put it under the clip thus lifting the needle. I'm not sure of the original setup. The PO had taken the carbs off and played with them. They were off the bike when I got it.

As I understand it a catalytic converter does its job by creating omg temperatures in order to consume (burn off) impurities. Thus the baking of anything in the immediate area.

There is a black tube from each carb which goes thru the loop and sticks out the side under the carburetor assembly. It plugs onto a little black plastic nipple. I replaced these tubes with clear tubing much like aquarium tubing. Brace these tubes so that they are near vertical and the end is above the center of the slide. Then open the drain screw and turn on the key. Turn the key off and on several times till the fuel pump doesn't click any more. Then look at the fuel level in the tubes. The fuel level is equal to what it is inside the bowl. Adjust as needed. It should be 15- 16.5 mm below the center of the slide. Of course all 4 should be equal. P.S. the bike should be on the center stand and the front elevated a bit to make the carbs as near vertical as u can when this test is performed.

The '91 is better! Especially the red one!

Yes moving the TCI is a common chore. Most put it on the air box- I've heard of one or three who put it in the left side fairing. The usual method is to cut off one of the tabs (off the TCI) and place it with the plug-ins facing to the left side. Put a wood screw or such coarse thread into the remaining tab after placing the unit up forward with slim clearance of the battery. This leaves clearance for the cover/fake fuel tank panel.

Your bike's charging system should keep your battery charged. If it isn't doing so something is wrong with it. Keep in mind however that a typical system doesn't provide juice below 2000 rpm usually. It must be spinning enough to work. Below that point you are operating off the battery.

I used to be a truck driver and for awhile I delivered gasoline to stations in the south Chicago suburbs. I was at the refinery picking up another load. There are no people there at night- the drivers load there own and the computer prints out the paperwork. A guy comes strolling out of the office with his bills- and a lit cigarette in his mouth! OMG! A gazillion gallons of gasoline, diesel fuel, etc ,etc in this tank farm. Open vapor lines and all and this genius is gonna smoke? All I could do is scream at him! Too bad I didn't have a camera. He got the most horrific look on his face! Probably similar to my own.

I have an 11 year old Metzeler on the front of mine. It looks new. I finally got 'er running and put 40 miles on. The Metzeler is now showing cracks much like dry rot. I suspect the rubber has hardened. I'm not riding any more till it is replaced.

Oh well......no additional ideas. I think I'll cut the connector off and solder the wires together. The switch is junk anyway.

Partshark was one of the 4 I had checked. I just rechecked and it is #57 on electrical 2 and is not on the list below.

The switch is bad I'm sure. There is no connection to ground (the black wire) from either of the other 2. I wonder how it starts? I have looked at 4 different sites and no one has this switch available. I am tempted to cut off the connector and solder all the wires together and shrink wrap it. To hell with this interlock business. I rode bikes for 30+ years without it. What 'safety circuits' are we talking about anyway? Besides the sidestand one?

Do not use a FRAM. Da bleepin' thing is made of cardboard! No thank you!

Thanks Dingy. I was incorrect when I said the switch was working correctly. The black wire (the ground?) has no continuity to either of the other wires. I had found the wiring diagram and see there is a relay in this circuit which is where the wires change colors. And from the wiring diagram it appears there cannot be any coorelation between the sidestand icon and the dash illumination lights. It must be a coincidence. And the fuse in the dash light circuit is not blown.

Hmmmmmm I tested the switch and it appears to be working correctly. I disassembled the windshield/headlight/instrument cover and.......there are no wires corresponding to the colors coming off the switch. And it was a bear to pull the plugs out of the back of the computer monitor. No looseness there! I'll stare at the wiring diagram and try to figure out the routing and try to make sense of it.

Ahhh ok thanks. That icon has been on and off for awhile. Maybe something is loose down there. I went thru the dash connections a couple weeks ago. Can't say I'm sure I tested all of em though....

I parked my bike and the next day I used a Dremel to cut 3" off the top of the windshield. Now I fire it up, put it in gear and it dies. Like an interlock is in. The red warning light stays on. There is an icon showing on the dash. The upper left one- looks like a stick figure with a hockey stick. Apparently I'm too dumb to recognize it lol. Oh- the dash illumination lights aren't working either. They did 2 weeks ago. I am.......clueless.

Try Slipstreamer. They offer a selection of sizes at a reasonable price. There is another company has some but they want like $200.

I found this thread which does answer some questions. But........I'm running lean with the stock setup? And you guys are lowering the needle from there??? I feel I am missing something..... http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28432&highlight=needle

Well I finally received the #80 Pilot Air jet from Ron Ayers. 2 weeks it took! Wow! I put it in and it ran alright. A little miss but not too bad. I have now put some clear tubing on the drain outlet nipples (not #4- nipple broken off) and #1 has a high level in the float bowl. But I ran 22 miles and it got hot. Seriously hot! I had to run the coolant fan- at it was only 85* out! Pulled the plugs- its running lean. Only 22 miles and I can already see the white dusting on the plugs. So I pulled one of the CV sliders. Question- does that little washer go above or below the clip on the needle? It was above- thus allowing the needle to protrude further into the jet. I suspect the PO was in there and reassembled it incorrectly. Thus causing this lean condition. The carbs were off the bike when I bought it.

Ok cool. I'm gonna crash then. Glad u were able to fix it so easily.

uechi kid- u haven't said if ur laid up or not. I'm the nearest member to Sedona so let me know. I have some knowledge but few tools. But I do have a nice garage should you need it. No- I have no truck nor trailer. P.S. Well.....I do know where I could probly borrow a truck. But I don't wanna be lifting a Venture into a 3/4 ton pickup! I get a hernia just thinkin of it!

There is something called IHD or something. I haven't really researched it yet but it seems to be a newer technology. Some of the people here have it and like it. I'm sure one will be along to sing its praises. Higher output with lower power consumption. Lower temperatures? I'm not sure about that.

Ok I have bled that top fitting and it did help. Its not quite where I feel it should be but not bad. At least I could take it out in traffic. I find it runs hot. It takes a few miles but the temp guage gets up near the red and I must turn on the fan. The PO masticated the fan wiring and made it manual. But its only 85* today! This is Arizona! I gotta do something about this. Maybe go up a size of main jet. I'm gonna pull the plugs and see if its running lean. They set these things up that way and call it emission control.

Oh I'm going 20-25 mph in first gear. But I've been riding since they invented dirt- and there is an extry amount of decel there. But then not having idle set may affect that. As it is it'll die if I don't keep some throttle on. Yeah I tried that- kicking it into neutral. There is maybe some drag but nothing like it is in gear. I have yet to sync the carbs though too. Ta hell with a rag lol. I have a length of clear tubing with a hose clamp. I run the other end to a container with a 2x4 across it. Rubber bands around the wood keep the hose positioned. Why do they place the bleeder facing upwards?