sendaro_99

Thanks for the reply, have not cut off any wires. intend to rebuild the plug one wire at a time when new connector arrives.

My original connector plug for my regulator melted when my regulator shorted out and caught fire. Would like to thank etcswjoe, Fylinfool, and all the others who have responded with helpful information. Senior chief, I ordered the 6 pin female Sumitomo Lock type .250 connector for replacement from the site you provided. The connector does not appear to be waterproof and was wondering if I should use some silicone at the wire end to seal the connector from the elements after I assemble and test it or is that a bad idea? Also, found some dielectric grease that says it's good from life 20 degrees to 500 degrees. Is that what I need for this connector? I will try to do the tests as you have all described after I get that connector replaced. I checked the leads today and I got no ground on the stator leads but had 1.8vdc at the red wire with the power off. Is that supposed to have that? Had continuity to ground on black terminal. What ohms setting on the meter should I use for theses tests, mine has from 200 to 2000k I think, about 5 different settings. Thanks again for helping to educate an old man on this.

First thanks for all the feedback, let me try again. Ordered a replacement regulator from eBay that was new and supposed to fit. Changed it out, like you said plug and play. the connector appeared to be clean but I sprayed it with contact cleaner and snapped it together. Was a real bear to get it all the way to where it snapped but finally got it. I had applied dielectric grease liberally (was not hi temp, did not know there was a high temp), checked and was getting 14.5v across battery. Rode about 80 miles no problem. started out again and got about 20 miles and while at a red light the regulator went poof, smoke and flames. Ordered a replacement from bike bandit that was from Ricks motorsports. the specifications stated this regulator was a mosfet style that came with wires protruding from the regulator that had to be hard wired. no connectors were supposed to be supplied. What arrived was what is identical to the oem style that has the male pins built into it and requires the stock connector to install it. the part number for what I ordered was 2733155 what I got was part no 10-413 yamaha regulator. Was just wondering if it's worth the hassle and wait to exchange the one I got for the one that hard wires in and is a mosfet? Hope that clears it up some and that's again the information on the regulator was great!

Well the saga continues. I ordered one of the regulators from bike bandit that was supposed to be a mosfet type regulator from Ricks motorsports. Thought that would be better and was ready to hard wire it in. What I received was a standard plug in regulator. My connector plug melted when the regulotor I just replaced shorted out and even though I ordered the Sumitomo .250 lock type of connector to replace the melted one I'm not so sure I should not call bike bandit back and go for the mosfet regulator. Sure could use some input from the pros on this.

congratulations on a beautiful find

Thank you all for the input. I am going to go to home depot and get the Klein ratchet crimper they have if my partners is not up to the task. Will see if they sell the Maine shrink wrap too. Will try to solder the connections after the crimp (I'm really lousy at soldering) and will double shrink wrap each wire then tape the bundle. Hopefully this regulator will last more than a couple of hours.

Thanks Lil beaver for the info, how do I test my system to insure only dc?

I have a new voltage regulator (mosfet) should arrive tomorrow for my 02 midnight. This regulator has to be hard wired in because no connector or ends supplied. I am planning to use the yellow shrink wrap crimps on theses wires as well as additional shrink wrap tubing over the yellow crimps. I know about testing across the battery with the engine running and looking for 14.5v +/-5v. Any other test I can run to be sure the system is ok before I leave on my vacation with her. I'm not real up on the electrical testing end but I do have a small vom and a12v test light.

Check out what Rick can go for you thru this site. had him do mine and it's better than a Corbin or mustang seat:backinmyday:

Thanks for all the useful information. I have a new rectifier on its way now that is supposed to operate cooler than the stock unit but has to be hard wired in because it comes with no connector. After I wire that in, other than the test across the battery for 14v what should I check. sorry, not really up on the electrical end of this but willing to learn. Did not see any other damage from the fire under there, no melted hoses or wires other than the connector for the rectifier.

ok I hear what your saying and I'm over 60 and have used dielectric grease on most every connection I've done. this regulator was a real bear to get to go onto the factory connector even with the grease. I snapped it on and then tried to take it loose so I could check the contacts again and could not get it apart so figured it was tight enough. the contacts in the connector looked fine and there was absolutely no dielectric in the setup I replaced. whatever caused the heat did set that grease a burning and the connector and regulator connection are melted. the regulator showed 14v across the battery after install and I put like almost 300 miles on before it made a loud poof sound, had lost of smoke and then the flames came while sitting at a red light. Would a faulty regulator cause enough heat to start the grease fire? Can I expect any other electrical damage from the regulator failure. going to have to hard wire in the replacement, any suggestions. bike ran til I put the side stand down.

really want to thank you for the info. The circumstances of the failure, all the excess ( used way too much) dielectric grease caught fire and melted the connector and the regulator. the original setup had no grease and I really loaded up the new connection thinking I need it to keep out the water under there. Have a new regulator on its way that does not have any connector, just the wires to hard wire it in. going to use the shrink splices and cover them in shrink wrap tubing. Anything else I should do besides check across the battery for 14v when running after install? the bike was still running never shut down until I shut it off.

thanks for the info and links. I probably caused this by using way to much dielectric grease. Will try a factory regulator and little to no grease after I can get the parts.

well I almost lost my venture today. stopped at a red light and smoke starts pouring out from regulator area, then flames! I ran the light to wind out the flames and got to a place to put out the fire. just replaced the regular a week ago and it tested ok. what would cause this. looks like the regulator melted first then the connector. where can a guy buy one of those connectors. thanks in advance for any help. I did clean the connector very well and even though it has no dielectric grease on the old part l greased up the new one.

I tried the Rick butler nuts ( also over tightened and ruined them), wing nuts, and standard nuts, all failed. Try using a barrel nut which is much longer than a standard nut allowing you to tighten it easier and use a lock washer. never came loose after that:backinmyday:

I had three of my club members struck by lightning a couple of years back on a poker run. very serious prayers and blessings:backinmyday:

yes please explain what is necessary to add these and a picture is worth a thousand words. thanks:backinmyday:

my midnight has had that issue right up till last Monday when I did the steering had adjustment and two new tires I mounted and balanced ( don't think most shops balance your tires). no more issues with wobble and much better at parking lot speed. these guys are great source of tech knowledge.

thanks for the info, will try a 1/4" socket set. can you tell me the best way to check the voyage output with new regulator installed to be sure I'm back in limit .

without trying to hijack this thread, I have to change out this component as soon as mine arrives because my venture has been doing this for a while and I have to ride home at night every night. can the part be changed without removing the lowers or is that a must? mine have broken tabs and are a pain to work with. thanks for any help:confused24:

can we mount one of those on my rsv:backinmyday:

I know it's not what we all want but my wife also has osteoporosis and some other issues that make putting down the bike with her on it not an option, trike kit will remove any worries if you can afford the change over and these bikes make fantastic trikes. better than having to stop taking her with you or risking her life.

I am certainly not an expert on tires, I try to use the pressure recommended by the bikes owners manual or the tire markets recommended pressure. run my tires at 41 front and rear on the Dunlop 404's and get even wear and good handling. Only get about 6000 miles per rear, but that's another story. 50psi is higher pressure than I've ever heard of for a bike tire, but I've only been doing this since 1966:backinmyday: have used one of those slime pumps for many years with never a problem.

look up the link on this website and call Rick. best money I ever spent and the ride is unreal after his work:backinmyday:

so glad to hear you and your lady are going to be ok. thank goodness for good body armor and safety equipment. rest and recover.