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royal rider

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Everything posted by royal rider

  1. royal rider
    Just bought my 07 RSTD on 12-26-08. Has 4 & 1/2 years left on the unlimited warranty. MINT CONDITION. Today has 451 miles. Have to sell. $9,950. Located in central iowa. If interested, please call me on my cell at 515-297-4066. Thanks for looking. Blake - royal rider
  2. royal rider
    HI eazyduzzit, I just bought my 07 RSTD the day after Christmas, less than 5 months ago. Due to cold and rainy Iowa weather, it only has 306 actual miles. Only reason I am selling is due to unexpected major expenses on my septic and leach field (sewer problems) on my acreage. It's MSRP was around $14,295. I am selling for $10,495. Is in mint shape, and has over 4 and a 1/2 years left on the unlimited mileage warranty. If interested, call my cell at 515-297-4066. Thanks, Blake - royal rider
  3. royal rider
    Hello everyone, I just bought my NEW leftover 2007 RSTD the day after Christmas, less than 5 months ago. MSRP was around $14,295. Due to cold and rainy weather here in Iowa, it only has 306 actual miles. Only reason I am selling is due to unexpected major expenses on my septic and leach field (sewer problems) on my acreage. I am selling for $10,495 usd. It has over 4 and a 1/2 years left on the unlimited mileage warranty. If interested, please call my cell as I don't get on the computer much. CELL: 515-297-4066 Thanks for reading... tell a friend if you can. Blake - royal rider
  4. royal rider
    I have the 07 RSTD, and please read my thread about needing help on the baffle removal. My friend has a body shop, and therefore has a plasma cutter. The "PC" worked great on cutting out the cone. We cut slightly outside of the weld where the baffle attaches, and were able to slide the cone out. We did it this way because IF we are successful in completely removing the farthest back baffle, I may be able to rivet or tack weld back in what's left of the cone( which still has the threaded screw holes attached) so that I may be able to reattach my rstd stock billet end caps. As you will see in my other thread I cannot get that stubborn baffle removed due to what looks like a 1/2 inch weld at the beginning of the baffle about 6-7 inches further in. I just haven't had time to mess with it anymore, but IF I do, I will let everyone know the outcome. thanks, royal rider-Blake
  5. royal rider
    I see what you're saying. Thanks royal rider
  6. royal rider
    Thank you we will give that a try... royal rider
  7. royal rider
    Thanks for the advice. I am leaning towards putting on aftermarket, but my friend that owns a bodyshop who is helping me might try a few more things before we give up. royal rider
  8. royal rider
    :bang head:Please read my thread a few down from here if you haven't. I received a lot of great advice on the whole issue. I followed the directions on one of the links I received and this is where I'm at... This on new 07 RSTD. Started by taking plasma cutter and cut around the baffle that is connected to the cone. Cone then was loose, and came out without too much work. Then cut through the baffle plate that the baffle is also attached to. So now from the links I received here, one writer said all you have to do is wiggle, twist, and pull, and the baffle should slide out... I don't know if my pipes are slightly different because it is an 07 RSTD vs. other years, or vs. the Ventures(?) but the tack weld that should twist apart on my baffle about 6-8 inches further in is about 1/2 an inch long. We first tried to wiggle, twist, and pull.... didn't move whatsoever. Next welded metal attachment to the baffle we were trying to remove, connected big slide hammer to attachment, pounded away, and MAYBE moved it out an 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Problem with this method is that the muffler is off the bike and I had to hold it while my friend did the slide hammer. I couldn't hold it well enough. Then we detached slide hammer assembly from baffle and welded 1 inch diameter rod directly in baffle we wanted out. I then reattached muffler to bike thinking that this would hold pipe in place. On end of the metal rod that was now sticking 6 inches out of baffle, I put big pipe wrench on to do twisting motion and whole muffler moved instead of 1/2 inch tack welded baffle. Then realized muffler mounting tab had rubber grommets in it. Removed those and temporarily rebolted thinking it would be rigid. Tried to twist w/ pipe wrench again and will bend brackets and baffle stays stationary. I am so frustrated I'm ready to scream. If anybody has suggestions, they would all be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU, Blake - royal rider:bang head:
  9. royal rider
    I just listened to the YouTube clip. They sound good. Thank you for your help. In a couple hours, I'm going to my friend's body shop and we're gonna use the holesaw to remove baffle. We are going to try to cut just big enough to remove baffle, but leave enough of the end cap intact so that the machined screw holes are still strong enough to reattach the billet end caps. I'm wondering if putting the billet end caps back on would help with the tat tat tat sound???? royal rider
  10. royal rider
    I'm still scratching my head on the left side pipe that doesn't fit... I'm sure you are right on the mounting bracket being messed up. If I try to fix myself, Murphy's Law says I will break, scratch, or dent pipe, and then would void warranty. Bub's is sending me a free shipping label to send back pipes. Hopefully tech person will measure brackets to see what is going on with the set that I am sending back. BTW, Bubs has been very helpful, and the overall look and finish of the pipes is top notch, just a problem with the fitment... I will let everyone know what I find out from Bub's once they assess the situation. Blake - royal rider
  11. royal rider
    BuddyRich: Thank you for your help. I appreciate it!
  12. royal rider
    After now reading everyone's great comments, I see that on the stock pipes you can either drill holes, or use the hole saw, and atleast remove the baffle closest to the conical end cap. In repsonse to EUSA1, I agree that when in the past I've drilled holes in pipes it sounded like it, and sounded wispy and wasn't what I was looking for. Upon reading about the hole saw trick and removing the rear baffle, my question is: is it going to sound like a nice "aftermarket pipe" sound, or is it also going to sound like "drilled hole" sound that EUSA 1 is referring to.... Also please read my post right above this one on my bub dilemma. THANK YOU!!!!:sun::)
  13. royal rider
    :sun:EUSA1 (Mike), I appreciate the info. Interestingly enough, I tried to put on the Bub slip on sleepers last night... Here's how the story goes.... A week ago, I initially called Bub to order "SOS" for my 07 RSTD. Sales person said the sos's only fit the venture, not the rstd. scratched my head, called back in, and talked to tech support. Short version was that tech said they weren't sure if they fit rstd or not. I ordered to try it. Back to last night... right side pipe fit like a glove-PERFECT! Left side pipe wouldn't fit right. To put bolt down through mounting tab hole, I would have to push pipe out to the side about 1/2". When this happens, from the back of bike, I can see pipe is crooked, and it is actually at the same time sitting too high. In a nutshell, it is 1" Higher than the right side perfect pipe, and is sticking out to the side around that 1/2" to much. It looked terrible, so am sending back. Could it be that the mounting tab was welded in wrong spot on the left bub pipe, or it is true that they fit the venture but not the rstd? P.S. Is there a way to respond to your comment without sending a new post reply like I did here??? Thanks, royal rider:confused24:
  14. royal rider
    Hi everyone, I am so excited to have found this site. I just picked up my new 2007 RSTD (left over model) from the dealer about 2 weeks ago. I think I have about 150 miles on it. I have the pipes removed, and tomorrow am going to try to make them louder. Any suggestions? My goal is to make them almost as loud as I can. THANKS!!!!
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