jdross440

What is the kit? I know from 90-93 the stock stator part number is different than the 86-89. Of course the 90-93 is no longer available new. Only 86-89 is available from several sources, and the price is much cheaper than the 90-93 if it was available. Everything that came out to replace the stator went back in. I believe the high output ones just run too hot and burn up. The only extra load on mine is a pair of 35 watt driving lights and I hardly use them since I'm out at night seldom where I can use them. However it may not be the stator this time. I will trace the wiring to see if maybe a wire came loose at a connection or the ground may have came loose. I will put the battery on my 2 amp maintainer charger tonight and see if it will charge up by weekend.

DEKA makes good batteries for many applications. I use one in my 92 Dodge diesel (one 1250 CCA) and usually get 5 or 6 years before they give trouble and it's lead acid. For $110 can't beat it. I emailed Advance and asked them where their battery was made now, here's their answer for what it's worth: "Advance Auto Parts does sell Made in the USA products as well as products manufactured from many other countries in order to keep our pricing competitive. Please also keep in mind that many suppliers have multiple manufacturing plants that could result in different countries of origin for the same part."

I soldered all the joints except for a connector within 6 inches of regulator.

I mounted the regulator on the bottom of the rear trunk where I can see and feel it. It was warm but not hot this morning after riding 20 miles. If it's the stator again, I am ready to give up as this would be the 3rd in 14K miles. The original went out at 51K miles. I replaced it with a high output (don't remember what company/brand), it lasted 7K miles, then one from sky_doc that lasted 300 miles (he apparently had gotten a bad batch) and the one that's in there now from Ricks with 4500 miles. It had set for a week and half while we were on vacation and when I started it Monday to go to work it almost didn't start. It fired off (but cranked slower than normal) and died and then cranked really slow. I can disconnect the battery and connect in my spare car battery and see if the voltage comes up. That would be the fastest way to check to see if the charging system is working. I will check out the system this weekend.

Apparently Advance has gone to a different manufacturer for their ETX18L. It is a different brand and the warranty is only 90 days now instead of the 1 year when I bought mine 2 years ago last month. It says it's an Autocraft distributed by Autocraft in Virginia. I believe mine is starting to go bad as this morning the voltage on my external digital meter is showing only 11.5 volts on the highway. Yesterday it was 13.2. I have a high output stator from Ricks and regulator from Sky_doc (both 2 years old).

The 2nd digit from the left on the frequency display has started getting intermittent. I noticed this morning that it wasn't lit up. After a few minutes it lit up. A few more minutes and it went off and came back on like there is a loose connection inside. It stayed on the rest of my 30 minute ride to work. Has anyone else had this problem and what was your fix? 1990 VR

Sometimes mine comes on when I am accelerating on the on ramp getting onto the freeway. It only does it if the engine hasn't warmed up yet, driven maybe a mile or mile and half. Once it's warmed up it never does it no matter how hard I accelerate.

I don't have the equipment or tools to do this work. If you would like to have it, just pay shipping.

I just put a 91 VMAX final drive (had 17K miles on it) in my 90 VR Saturday. I left the nuts loose that bolt the drive to the drive shaft housing. When I put the axle in and tightened the nut, there was no gap. I tightened the 4 nuts and took the nut off the axle. The axle pulled out easy and slid back in with 2 fingers. I guess it varies from year to year whether a shim is needed. I filled it with Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil. I test rode it for about 2 miles on the access road. It seems quieter than the original. I rode it to work yesterday and today. It runs good and is much quieter. The original unit had the nut broken off the pinon gear therefore making lots of whining when decelerating. I notice only small difference in RPM. Was at 70 3900, now 4200 PRM. I guess it is a case by case basis whether a shim is needed or not. Maybe since the years were only one apart it fit correctly without a shim.

I have them in a box in my carport wondering what to do with them. I hate to throw anything in the trash.

It was only noisy when I would let off the throttle, so I thought. Had a terrible whine. I rode it to work today as no rain. Man is it quiet. It has always had that whine as we bought it used with 27K miles and now up to 63K. At 65 MPH the RPM is right at 4K. We don't ride a lot on the interstates except to and from work and those have a speed limit of 60 or 65. We try to right the 2 lane highways-the ones you had to use to get cross country before the interstates were built as the scenery is much better. Just to many small towns if going any distance.

I just put a 91 VMAX final drive (had 17K miles on it) in my 90 VR Saturday. I left the nuts loose that bolt the drive to the drive shaft housing. When I put the axle in and tightened the nut, there was no gap. I tightened the 4 nuts and took the nut off the axle. The axle pulled out easy and slid back in with 2 fingers. I guess it varies from year to year whether a shim is needed. I filled it with Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil. When I pulled the original unit off the drive shaft the spring, nut and washer flew out. It took me a few minutes to figure out what happened. The pinion shaft had broken at the edge of the nut. See attached picture. I test rode it for about 2 miles on the access road. It seems quieter than the original. Now it's supposed to rain all week so I won't get to ride it.

I just put a 91 VMAX final drive in my 90 VR Saturday. I left the nuts loose that bolt the drive to the drive shaft housing. When I put the axle in and tightened the nut, there was no gap. I tightened the 4 nuts and took the nut off the axle. The axle pulled out easy and slid back in with 2 fingers. I guess it varies from year to year. I test rode it for about 2 miles on the access road. It seems quieter than the original (I did find the nut broken off the pinion shaft on the VR). Now it's supposed to rain all week so I won't get to ride it.

Mobil1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90, about $11 a quart. They also have it in 75-140 for abut $20 a quart.

A few years ago when we were having temps in the 105 range I changed my thermostat to a NAPA THM 156 auto thermostat (abut $8 now). That seemed to help at speed. But at slow or stopped it would still run close to the red line. I replaced the fan switch and that let the fan come on quicker and helped a little more at slow/stopped. I then replaced the factory fan with a Muzzy's aluminum fan. That made a big difference for me since it comes on earlier with the new switch. When it comes on you can hear it and feel the heat that you didn't hear or feel before. Last year when we were again having temps in the 105 range I added some Water Wetter and that helped too. It doesn't take but about 4 tablespoons according to the directions on the bottle. Of course when it gets to these temps here we have high humidity too, therefore I ride very little.

I use American Collectors Insurance. My 65 Chevy pickup is 115 a year and covered for 14000 with 0 deductible. This is full coverage: liability, medical, unisured, underinsured,comp, collision, towing and spare parts up to 500.

I emailed Skydoc_17 and he sent me the following reply: The FJR1300 Final Drive is NOT a direct bolt on item. There are parts that need to be custom machined. The VMAX Final Drive is the way to go. How the shim goes is you would "dry mount" the rear wheel and the Final Drive on the axle letting the nose of the Final Drive unbolted. There will be a gap between the nose of the Final Drive and the flange of the drive shaft tube. It will not be equal all the way around. You will take a shim set and measure top and bottom, and each side. Write the 4 numbers down, and divide by 4 to get the shim thickness. You will need to measure the nose of the VMAX Final Drive for the center hole in the shim. (A little larger here is OK) You will need to measure the diameter of the Final Drive studs for the 4 holes that also need to go into the shim at the four corners. I make my shims out of Aluminum. It's easy to work with and does the job nicely. Since I have moved to a new location, my machine shop is not set up right now. I am unable to machine any parts currently. I wish I could help you more, but at this time, I don't have access to my mill and lathe. I hope this info helps. Looks like I need to stay with the VMAX final drive.

I want to put a VMax or FJR1300 final drive in my 90 VR. What years of VMax and FJR final drives should I look for? Also do I use the 90's drive shaft with these? Thanks.

Since I now know this is a common occurrence and nothing is going wrong I will live with it unless I run onto a unit from a 91-93 at a reasonable price or I come up with the extra money for the aftermarket TCI.

Will a 91-93 TCI work on a 90? Probably can't find one at a reasonable price anyway.

While riding at a constant 55 (using gps), about 3100 rpm, for about 15 minutes it acts like 2 cylinders drop out. The speed drops and I let off and then bring throttle back up and it will run good for about 15 minutes and do it again. If I run faster or slower (58 mph and up or 52 and down) it doesn't do this. When I'm on 2 lane highways I like to ride at 55 to see the scenery (and that's our speed limit). Anyone have an idea why at this speed only?

The "tall" tube (main supply) in my tank has come out of the petcock and just laying in the bottom of the tank. It is too much trouble to take it apart and reinstall it. Therefore when the low fuel light starts blinking I know about how far I can go.

Have you tried Chaparral Motorsports? I bought some Kendra K673 Kruz and put on mine. The front was $63 and the rear was 97. I have had the rear for almost 2 years and the front about 2 months. So far I like they way they ride and handle. They shipped them out fast.

I have Allstate and liability and uninsured motorist costs me $246 a year and this won't cover my trailer. It is due in July so I checked with Geico and they want $149 with more coverage (adds Comp which will cover my trailer and up to $2K in accessories). I have all my vehicles and my house with Allstate. They are getting high on all of them. I will be changing to Geico when the time comes.

Here's how I replaced mine. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79330