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Kiwiroyale

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Everything posted by Kiwiroyale

  1. What can be more boring Mama, than waking up down-under and realising that yesterday is today...then talking on VR Chat (a wee plug...) about stuff that has not yet happened up-there, nothing is more boring then keeping quiet about stuff that happened tommorow.
  2. Yeaup the long travel into cyber spacey thingy on its way down under has gone witho
  3. Total respect for you sir, hope to are not retiring from your forum input!!!
  4. Gday, RIDING IS THE MOST RELAXING PASSTIME!!!!!!
  5. G'day mate, what are you shooting? Varmints here are called "small game" rabbits, hares etc... They are very light skinned and 98% of us (kiwis) use a .22 calibre, however we have some enthusiasts that like longer range hunting of these "varmints, .17hmr is a great calibre, super accurate as I am sure you know, I have a mate that has a savage, he loves it and has had no problems whatsoever. I use a ruger 10/22 and would not go past it. I am (as per) with Puc on a 22-250, it is probably the most versatile calibre you can buy, a huge range of applications due to the projectile-velocity from this brilliant calibre. .204 is not so popular in my land a it doesn't really "fit" with any of our game, to large for small game and not large enough for big game I am talking projectile. "knock down" power here, oh and "big game in NZ is our red deer, fallow deer, we do have the much larger Wapiti, elk not far from my home however they can only be hunted during the rut (March/April) and large calibres can only be used, I hunt with a 7mm08 Sako Finnlight topped with a Swarvoski scope and a suppressor, I have literally just walked in from hunting today, a nice wee surprise to see this post!!! I use Federal Premium 139g ammo, I can get 3/4" Moa at 400 yards, which is way more than I need, i predominantly bush hunt. Sorry long winded on a favourite subject!! Firstly decide WHAT type of shooting you are after, then try some calibres out, and remember this question is like asking what type of oil to use in your Venture!!!!!! Kiwi
  6. Ummm excuse me Puc, isn't that a Neil Diamond jingle... I would love to attend, but i need more notice, what with work commitments and all, though I could attend via the CHAT ROOM, as long as the timing is right!!!!
  7. Thanks Prairiehammer!!! I went back through the notes I made at the time of my "repair", it was the E5 code I had displayed, (apologies for any confusion) however the E2 continually appeared, and as with Gary I did notice a very "sloppy" comp piston, i will now revisit this again over winter.
  8. That is absolutely BRILLANT well done Gary!!! Now a question for you, are you saying that E2 code is repairable? a yes may potentially save me a lot of money.
  9. G'day, I hope everything turns out for you guys, I am sure it will. Some companies have no idea really about Customer Service, it is slightly troubling though that you feel they are trying to get you "past" the warranty period, surely (as is the case over here in NZ) if the trouble happened PRIOR to the warranty period expiry AND you have documented the problem with them, then that problem needs to be resolved by the company no matter how long past the warranty expiry it takes? Steve
  10. G'day, that's great info, I will be checking mine soon.
  11. G'day Gary, as per my post on this subject back in December 2015, I unfortunately do not have anything more to help you with other than E2 is PERMANENT and has a result I am awaiting Earl (skydoc_17) to hunt me out another Class Controller, as this is where the problem is I believe. As previously mentioned in the December post, all the literature I have read on this code relates it solely to the Class Controller (circuit board) NOT pump/solenoids/or any other mechanical items. I stand to be corrected on this by the very knowledgeable people on this site. With regards to the solenoids, yours are displaying exactly the same as mine, healthy clunk from rear and minor "throw" from other two, in either case I managed to "jumper" the respective solenoids and move air into front and rear, so I assume this "throw" is normal. The "ride height" has remained unchanged since December last, Tanz and I have had added around 2000kms of comfortable riding since then, with no noticeable loss in air pressure (new seals at the same time to the forks). You mentioned that an "o ring" was missing from the input dryer, so I assume your dessicant is "wet"? Thoroughly clean this and replace with new dry dessicant( don't want wet air in your shocks causing rust when you get her up and running) This (no, "o ring") may reduce pressure into the dryer but it should still output enough to get things going, as it were. With regards to the pump body seam, do you mean it was leaking? I am out of town at the mo, but I will check mine when I get back, from memory though that would take a fair amount of pressure to "pop" that seam even though it is made from Aluminium. Furthermore, I believe this whole system is a relatively LOW PRESSURE application, and needs to be treated as such. I will keep scanning my memory though mate. Steve
  12. I did, but it's now covered in oil and other Royale debris...
  13. should I answer the voices...
  14. G'day again Nate, just a wee thing mate and it is by no means a "major" but when you post a topic, if you can just use the one post heading and ask all your questions related to that topic within that post ie: Stator Replacement. When you ask another question this post will always get "bumped up" the list, so don't worry that we will not see it mate. I have just trolled through the three or so posts on your stator, and I could have answered all of those questions for you in one statement, and with pictures!!!!! ( I too have not long ago replaced my stator in my '83 Royale). All good though and as I said it is not a major or a criticism, awesome to be able to help you, and look forward to more on your bike. Regards "Kiwi"
  15. At least your "National Symbolic Bird" can fly... "Eagle" perhaps? seems to me a rather freebird...
  16. G'day even I tried and i was all on my own... although I have been caught talking to myself lately, as you know I am slow at typing, hence by the time I have typed the reply to myself, I have forgotten what I was thinking...
  17. G'day Nate, IMHO I would never re-use a gasket. Now Unfortunatley there is really only one way to fix it properly... Yeaup you guessed it!! What I would do is clean around the cover whilst it is on the side stand, (or position you notice leak) take special notice where the leak is coming from, you may have to warm her up first to get her "leaking", my guess is that it will actually be where the "wire plugs" exit the case, this is where I had a small leak on my '83 prior to replacing the stator. I spent more time preparing the "mating surfaces " than it took me to replace the stator, the photo I posted in your original post shows just how clean I got them. As you will now know the rubber plugs (two ) have a small "ridge" that mates into the cover, THIS RECESS MUST BE CLEAN AND FREE FROM GASKET GUNK, i used a very small amount of gasket gunk (call it what you will) on these plugs as I inserted them into the cover (see slight red colour on the photo). NOW what I found was the "plugs" would push in slightly "deep" into the cover leaving a "gap" that the new gasket could not "fill" the result would have been another leak.ENSURE THAT THE RUBBER "plugs" are level with or slightly "proud" (100ths) of the cover so that the gasket can "fill the gap". Alternately the plugs would sit "too proud" as a result of gunk in the recess, same result the gasket cannot "fill" the small gap left at the plug. I hope this makes sense and I have not stated the obvious to you mate. steve
  18. Turn it in inside out, she'll be good to go...
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