Flyinfool

Hmmmm, Interesting. I just went from 10W to 12.5 W and felt the "pogoing" at low speed got worse, I am thinking of trying 15W next.

For starters 122k is not really considered high mileage on these bikes. While it is not common I have read of cases where the input end of the pinion gear has snapped off. But this failure is much more common on the V-Max with its higher torque and horse power. Many people have chosen to change their Venture rear ends (3.33 rear ratio) to a V-max rear end (3.67 gear ratio) to get the slightly different gearing. And on the other end the V-max guys seem to like to swap to Venture rear ends for the slower gearing. Before I would start ordering expensive parts I would take it apart for a look see. There are a few things it could be. None of which are common failures.

Do the dash lights dim when at speed or mostly at idle. It is pretty normal for the turn signals to cause things to dim at low engine speeds where the charging system can not keep up, especially if you have any extra lights added to the signals. To test, hook an analog volt meter across the battery and put on the turn signal You will most likely see the needle wiggling in time with the flashes. Now start the bike and try the same at idle, and again at 2500+ RPM. The needles moment and dimming lights should be close to gone at the higher RPM. If the needle is not moving when connected across the battery but the dash lights are still dimming with the flasher then you do have a bad connection somewhere, It could be in either the power or the ground side.

If that ferry was not so darn expensive, I would be glad to take that and drag @cowpuc and you and maybe even a few others from MI all kicking and screaming all the way to MD. I am even closer to the ferry port than Puc is.

When is hubby's reunion? That is not real far from Orlins, WI MD on June 23-26. There will be a bunch of cheese heads there.

I cheated when I went to get mine out for drying, diodes, and relocation. Since so many people have said that you need to cut the ears off the TCI, AND the PO had already buggered up the screws by trying to use the wrong size screwdriver, I simply reached down from above with a corse tooth hacksaw blade, and cut the ears off in place. My TCI is now safely located in the left side of the fairing where it is out of the way, fairly accessible, and most important, dry. The mounting ears are still in their stock locations where I still can not get to them. As a note to anyone reading this that might actually want to remove the TCI without cutting, the correct screwdriver bit is a #3 JIS. Your #2 Phillips will just strip out the screw head.

If every single car flashed you, that is not a good thing. That is a very bad thing. First thing you must do is to aim that light correctly. If the beams cut off is so bad that it can not be aimed correctly, then it should not be used. Brightness does not blind oncoming drivers, poor aiming will. Do you really want to be blinding something that is coming at you with a closing speed of over 100MPH and is way heavier than you. Most people when being blinded by bright lights close their eyes and hope for the best, it is the natural reaction of the eyes to protect themselves, not to mention that you just wiped out their night vision so they will be blinded for a few minutes whiles their eyes readjust. I have never yet changed a headlight and not had to make some adjustment to the aiming. My truck has over 300 watts of HID lighting which is many times brighter than your LEDs and I have never been flashed, but I took the time to aim them all correctly. Sorry for the rant, improperly aimed lights are a pet peeve. Please, if you are going to do it, do it right. If you are going to at Dons MD I will be happy to help you get the aim correct.

If the tach ever drops to zero while the engine is running, even while the engine is running very badly, it does indicate an electrical problem. A fuel problem will never make the tach drop to zero with the engine still running. There are a lot of things that can have an effect on the TCI. As mentioned a god place to start is the TCI connectors. Clean the contacts, dry it out and give each wire in the connectors a gentle tug to check for a good crimp. If that does not fix it we can move on to other areas to check. It takes a while to go thru everything, but we will help you find it. I HATE intermittent issues, if it does not act up for the dealer at his shop, all he can do is to throw YOUR money at the problem until he happens to hit the bad part. I hate throwing money at a problem..............

I am planning to leave here around 3-4am on Friday June 10th. This gets me just over the state line into Indiana by 6am to miss some of the Chicago lunatics that have not yet had their morning coffee. This timing also gets me to Dons around noon on Friday with plenty of time to set up my room at the Pond monster motel and get in some visiting before heading out for dinner. If anyone is looking to hook up, let me know, we can see what will work out.

Can you get a pressure tester on it to see where it is leaking from? Be real careful that you do not fill a cylinder with coolant and hydro lock the motor. Although that would make diagnosis and the path to follow pretty simple.

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-4t-motorcycle-oil http://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/motorcycle-oil/4-stroke-engine-oil.html

Gary I have played the tie the handle back game a lot, to no avail. I am also contemplating getting rid of the splitter and just get 2 new long lines made up with a double banjo at the master. For the rear I gutted the proportioning valve and then plugged the hole where the rear line used to attach and my braided stainless line is connected to the port that used to go to the front left caliper. I do not know if the different port makes any difference once the valve is out other than it is easier to get to. I also have HH pads in the rear and both fronts.

DOH!!! And this last weekend I cleaned out the shed and threw out all the 28 year old rubber lines I took off the bike when I delinked and went to stainless. Today was trash day so they are gone. It never fails, they were in my way for 2 years.................

It depends on which Mobile 1 you used. If an oil does not specifically say it is for a wet clutch I will not use it. If the oil say it contains friction enhancers or something for economy, it will most likely not work. Others do use certain oils that do not specifically state for wet clutch and it works out ok for them. To me there is not enough of a price difference to be experimenting using oil that was not made for a motorcycle. If it was the oil causing the slipping, it will take a while to flush it out of the clutch, you will not have instant grip. A lot of shifting and riding in the friction zone will help to clear the old oil out of the clutch.

I just put in the progressive springs last weekend and left my 30 year old seals alone. I would still change the fork oil even though it is fairly fresh.

The bikini would be better than nothing...................

It sure sounds like an electrical issue. Intermittent electrical are the worst PITA to find.

If you bring them a panel to match they will match that panel. If the panel you bring is faded the new paint will match the faded paint. If you are repainting the whole bike and want original color then you need to have them mix it to the recipe.

Any good auto paint supplier can do a color match while you wait. A color match will match also match any fading that has happened over the last 30 years, color rite type places will match the factory spec which may no longer match the rest of the paint.

Did you by chance bump the kill switch, you would not be the first.

My rear is wonderful, pads are good, I aint touching it.I can just barely get it to lock if I really make an effort at it. My front has a single line down from the master, that goes to a V-Max splitter and then 2 lines down from there. A 16mm master is a lot less money than the R1/R6 calipers. Even if I do go with the R1/R6 calipers I still need a new master, I think the badly pitted master is a big part of my issue. It seems that I did get some air into the master while the bars were hanging upside down during the steering bearing job. I bled the system at the master banjo bolt after it sat for 24 hours so all of the air could float up to that point. I then bled the whole system normally. The front brake is at least now back to where it was, not great but rideable. I still want to get it better.

Now that is one of the best epic battle stories yet. Hope you feel better soon.

Maybe we can both head up there and triple team it. I can pack my favorite BFH. I also have a puller that has successfully pulled that flywheel. who knows what some flying ability will add to the conversation..........

Man, If you were just a tad closer and/or I did not have to work all week..................... My first opportunity to get up there will not be until the first weekend in June so if you do not have it solved by then.................

OK I had a thought last night. Yea I know, me having thoughts is usually a dangerous thing.................. While working on the steering bearings I may have had the Master cylinder sitting upside down while draped over the side of the bike. this could have let air into the pump chamber of the master. Tonight when I get home I will bleed the master to see if that may be the case. Even if that is the case and it gets me back to where I was, that is still just ok brakes not great brakes. The stock master on the MKIs is a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) bore, the stock master on a MKII is 14mm (9/16 inch) bore. That 14mm bore was designed to operate just the right caliper. So I am thinking that going to a 16mm (5/8 inch) bore like what is used on some bikes with dual front calipers might just work better.