oconeedan

Hmmm, we'll see I guess. I did see a GA State police on a HD with a strobing brake light (used when he was just braking, not all of his lights on).

My choke knob was a boring, standard looking, plastic knob. What was Yamaha thinking? I pulled it off, and replaced it with a nickle plated .308 shell casing that I filled with epoxy. Maybe this should be in the "poor man's fixes" forum? It cost me nearly nothing. I'm likely going to add little things like this to the front ends of the bag rails, bar ends, etc. I made a "matching" valve stem cap using a 10mm shell casing. http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j117/OconeeDan/DSCN9258.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j117/OconeeDan/DSCN9259.jpg

I found this LED mini strobe at superbrightleds.com, and added it to my bike. Just tied in with brake light and ground, easy peasy. No excuse for anyone rear ending me when I am stopped. It's bright, and I like it. You can program it to different flash patterns, from solid on to something that looks like an emergency vehicle. I avoided that pattern, just wanted to grab attention when I am in a line of stopped traffic. It cost around 40 bucks shipped, the model number is P-STRB-x4W . Here is a pic of the LED light: http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j117/OconeeDan/DSCN9252.jpg Here is the rear of it, you can see it is completely potted with clear epoxy. http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j117/OconeeDan/DSCN9253.jpg Here it is mounted: http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j117/OconeeDan/DSCN9260.jpg

I'm thinking of adding a king size Mutazu trunk on my luggage rack, keeping the RSTD luggage rack and sissy bar and passenger back rest. The Mutazu trunk comes with back rest, I was thinking of leaving it off, and mounting the trunk as close to the sissy bar as I can. It's side opening like a tour pak. Or...I could get a forward opening trunk, but would have to cut off my RSTD sissy bar to accommodate it. Any thoughts?

So Chief, would you say that you prefer the Scalarider, or the Sena? I'm looking for one of these also. I wear several helmets, it would be nice if you can move them around without too much fuss. Dan

Chrome is my favorite color. I say my bike is chrome, with a hint of black.

I'm going to take your advise. Not happy with Purolator at the moment. Is this a NAPA gold filter, or standard? Dan

I wrote an email to Purolator filters, and was a bit surprised by the "cold" answer I received. Hardly an acceptable answer, for someone that has been using their filters a long time, and recommending them. Whether it is in a motorcycle or a car or truck. I think I'll find another filter and move on. It was suggested to me on another thread to try a NAPA Gold filter, and I think I'll go in that direction. I was not looking for a "freebie", refund, or anything other than an explanation of what could have gone wrong. A few bucks isn't the issue, a leaky bike (or worse) is. Here is a copy of the correspondence, decide for yourself. Dan My email to them: Dear Sir or Ma'am, I have been using your oil filters for a long time, well over 100,000 miles on my motorcycle. I have had no problems, and believe you make good filters. Last weekend, I had a problem. I used a 14612 Purolator Gold filter on my 2006 Yamaha Royal Star, and could not get a seal. The filter spun on just fine, and as soon as the rubber gasket touched the engine casing, it stopped turning. It felt like metal on metal, and the gasket would not crush. It leaked badly, I removed it and looked for problems. Seeing nothing that looked obvious, I reinstalled it, and had the same problem. I put the old filter back on until I could figure out what was going wrong. I later find out, that I may not be the only one with a problem. I am "oconeedan" on this forum, and here is a link to the topic of discussion. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?100874-Purolator-Oil-Filters-14610-amp-14612 Their reply: We do not recommend or catalog Classic filters to any motorcycle applications. These applications are covered by the ‘ML’ Motorcycle filter line. Due to the differences between motorcycle and passenger car engines, we do not warrant their usage on these vehicles. Thanks, James Murray Associate Catalog Manager MANN+HUMMEL Purolator Filters LLC 155 Franklin Rd Ste 153| Brentwood, TN 37027 Phone: 615-377-1505 | Fax: 615-377-1520 James.Murray@pureoil.com www.mann-hummel.com

Nice bike. I'd replace that front tire, these are heavy bikes and need good rubber. I have no problems with the Exedra. They are going to put the cheapest battery in they have, it should be good for a year or two. That is ok, upgrade later. Can't chime in on the shock. The carbs will clean up easy, hopefully just blow by as mentioned. Clutch whine, I think most of them have the Jetson whine.

I also used that same filter with Rotella T6 in a Honda for over 100,000 miles, and had no problems. I am thinking they had a bad batch.

SWEET!!!!

YES YES YES YES YES YES!!!! Last weekend, I changed the oil for the first time on my "new to me" RSV. I bought a 14610 long white Purolator filter. I CAN"T get it started, it is a tad too long and hits the frame. Drive to town and the store is out of the white 14612, so I spend the extra $$ and get the gold 14612. Installed on the bike, and I don't like the way it feels. As soon as the filter spins on and the gasket touches, it stops turning, feels like metal to metal. I am a maintenance tech, am good with tools, and have changed oil a million times. OK, maybe a few less than a million. I was concerned enough that I put a wrench on it to tighten it (which I never do). Next day, the bike had marked it's territory, badly. I pulled off the filter, looked and couldn't see anything wrong, tried it again. Nope, wouldn't seal. So I put the old one back on, until I find one that fits right. This thread has GOOD timing. I measured the new Purolator gold filter, the distance from the top of the red gasket to the first thread is 0.350" . Are you measuring from the top of the gasket, or bottom? Our measurements don't jive, but your description of the problem is exactly what happened to me. My filter looks like djh3 's photo of the white filter. Do you reckon that Purolator put the tops on upside down?

Chart says 9oz, I used 8 oz, and it rides fine in every way. Riding daily won't allow pooling.

It was worse last week here in GA. I think we are over the hump. Still some pollen, but not as bad.

Du-Ron, great thread you posted above!

Thanks to both of you. I tried the 14610, but it would not fit, as the end of the filter was bumping against my frame and I couldn't get it started on the threads. I wonder if my threaded "nipple" sticks out a little farther than normal? The 14612, I had no problems clearance wise and it spun right on. But when it touched, it quit spinning, like those threads were bottomed out. If it leaks, I'll remove it and investigate. I'm using Rotella T6, as it gave my last bike long life. Dan

I have stock bars, and yours look like mine. I am guessing yours are stock, it's hard to tell from pics. I actually rotated my bars up a bit, I felt they were too low. I would like bars with a little more pull back, but not sure what I can get away with...don't want to change cables out.

Which crush washer is correct for this bike? Aluminum, aluminum with rubber insert, copper, fiber? What came off is a rubber / aluminum combination washer, I was expecting a simple aluminum crush washer. I went out and bought one, but didn't know which one is proper. One more thing that got my attention, I used a Purolator 14612 filter, had to get the Gold as they were out of the standard white one. The filter felt different...when the gasket made contact, the filter would not turn any further. I am used to going about 1/2 turn past the gasket touching. I ran it around the block, and a drop of oil at bottom lip of filter. It could have been residual. But it may not have screwed on far enough to compress the gasket. I have used Purolator filters with good success on my previous bike (over 100,000 miles). I am a maintenance tech, and good with tools, etc.. Just new to Yamaha's.

The bypass harness sounds like a good idea. But the first thing I would do is get some contact cleaner, pull the tank off, and unplug / clean every connector (and the switch too).

Yes, same as stock bulb. I think 65w on high beam. Nice white light (not blue, not yellow), that is most useful.

If you want to keep it simple, the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulb is noticeably brighter than a stock headlight bulb, simply swap it. Dan

It only took 3 days to get here, and swap out is a snap. My first impressions are, the bulb is a tad brighter than the 2357 bulb, but nothing like a solar flare. When I took the 2357 out, after only 2 minutes of intermittent brake for comparison, that bulb was as hot as a firecracker. The LED, runs much cooler, in fact it was only slightly warm after a few minutes. I don't know if the bulb DRAWS 30W, or illuminates like a 30W...I would guess it doesn't draw much but illuminates like a 30W bulb. And, it's "instant on", no ramp up time. So, I like it. Viewing angle did not seem to matter. I like it, and the price, and will likely end up replacing my turn signals with them too. I may need to add a load resister somewhere in the turn signal circuit. http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j117/OconeeDan/30W%20Cree%201157.jpg

That's some good information there, thank you!

I was thinking about building my own led board, and while researching parts, came across this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251511119792 I bought one, will let you know how it works. Simply swap bulbs, no modification needed. Dan

Thanks Steve!