Droneh8tr

I just got home from work and couldn't wait until this weekend to get you an answer... Here you go: 1. The switch had bouncing resistance... Which means I had lube on the contacts.. I cleaned them and now it's nearly no resistance. 2. I grounded the black wire and measured the voltage to the other wires switching from low to high... Low = 12.7 High = 12.17 3. Black wire not connected to a grounding lead, voltage readings = SAME RESLTS So, from this I would say its a fair assumption I'm getting the power I'm suppose to have.. BUT WAIT, when I connected the bulb directly to the battery, the high beam was very bright, but NO low beam.. And the ohm meter showed open on the low beam side.... THIS suggests the bulb is bad. But hold on again... With the switch in low beam, voltage = 12+ on that circuit AND I get a 4 volt reading on the high beam side of the bulb (why i dont know) while the switch is still on low beam. MAYBE, my dim indication is that the high beam side of the bulb is getting 4 volts while the low beam hasn't even been working this whole time... So why am I getting 4 volts on the high beam side of the bulb??? Later today imbuying a new bulb and I'll go from their.. I'll take JAKESTERs advice. Any additional suggestions would still be appreciated..

Im gonna do all this within the next couple days. Its a busy work time so free time isn't avail. until Saturday morn.

Yes..

I had to run out to work but I was able to take a couple readings and try something: Switch on Low Beam: Low beam circuit = 12.13 volts High beam circuit = 4.10 volts..... why would this be? Switch on High Beam: Low beam circuit = 11.10 High beam circuit = 11.96 I agree, but please read above..

83 Venture Well I've resoldered the circuit board to fix the dim low beam headlight issue... It didn't fix it. High beam is plenty bright. Anything else I can try? I don't feel like driving around with my high beam on all the time, and I don't feel like putting on an aftermarket system. I did clean every contact as well.

Well said Stache.. Police Officer Donald Olson, USAF Veteran USN Veteran

Many thanks... I hope to install this weekend.. So I will definitely NOT ground it..

I've installed Ricks R/R on several motorcycles through the years, but have never come across this issue.. The R/R, #10-515, doesn't have a signal wire. The brown wire to the ignition switch and various other items.. So, what am I suppose to do with the signal wire on the bike? I have a suspicion I'm suppose to connect it to ground.. Anyone know?

I'm waiting for my Ricks Stator to show up.. Thanks for the reminder to use Loctite. I've installed Ricks components on other bikes and have never had a problem

Awesome, glad to hear it.. I'm literally days away from putting mine fully back together, insuring it, registering it and getting it inspected (VA requirement). Although yesterday I noticed my battery charging volts went to 17+, so a new R/R and Stator are enroute.. I literally have a list of tomorrows projects next to me.. Post some pics of your ride and tell us what you had to do to it, mileage etc..

Please, Please, please be more specific... I want to try what your saying... Do I back out all the screws, is that what your saying?

Alright L&G, this is what it's doing.. 1 and 2, sync fine. I can sync 3 to 4, but remember 4 is very high... Now, when I try to sync 3 and 4 to 2.... I run out of adjusting screw long before their synced.. So now I'm being left with 3 and 4 with high vacuums and no more ability to adjust them down... I've looked at the linkage and really can't see how it could be put on wrong... I don't see anything bent broken or missing.. Does someone have a pic of exactly how the linkage should look.. Thanks for putting your knowledge to work on my issue.. I have to run to a friends house now, he's having issues with his radiator, I'll get back with you all later today.

I'm chuckling to myself because I knew that's where it's suppose to be, BUT THEIRS NOTHING THEIR... I thought maybe I was looking in the wrong area.. it is a raised section that kinda looks likes a file.. But not something somebody did, but rather like it came like this from the factory. Any other areas I should look?

Yes, I did put the carbs on a level surface. I've looked at pictures of the linkage and simply don't see that anything is on wrong The vacuum advance hose is in place, connected on both ends, but I'll look closer for any leaks. YICS system leaking... Interesting. I'll try pinching the hoses and see what happens. Thanks MiCarl, I did just that. But still the vacuum was VERY high. What it's doing is that either 3 or 4 can be adjusted, but not both together.. I've got some ideas to look at so let me do those and get back to you all.

Thanks, I'm gonna make that project #1 for tomorrow morning..

Thanks Peder_y2k, I took off the cover and no rips, tears and the o ring was there... But it appears that just pulling it off may have fixed it.. It looks like its working right. Thanks for the reply.

Ok, my 83 Venture is back together enough to test ride... But all is not well... But close:) The right front carb, #4 I think, has a very high vacuum reading. Turning the adjustment screw didn't do anything. I looked into the top of the carb. and the throttle valve is moving during throttle movement. I switched the hoses on the carb. sync tool and the problem moved with the hose. The other 3 carbs are nearly perfect in vacuum. While looking down into the carbs, I saw that the #80 jet in #1 carb was wrong.. I had put the 42.5 in.... Sssoooooo I'm pulling the carbs. now, is their something I can look for to help the vacuum issue with #4 carb.. WAIT... also I noticed the left front carb slide not moving at the same point as the other 3. It take a higher rpm before it starts to react.. ****UPDATE*** The jet issue is fixed.... The slide is ok now..... Regarding the vacuum issue, I can make each right side carb be the same very high vacuum... BUT, when I go to make them match the left, the 3 carb will come down but the 4 carb will stay high.. Do I have a linkage issue? I didn't see that anything was wrong when I pulled the carbs off. ANY input would be appreciated.. OK, that's all for now... ANY IDEAS WELCOME.

Mission Accomplished.. The tube is out..

83 Venture The oil tube the Twinkie sits on has an O ring on the top and bottom... Is its part #93210-06667-00. ? Also, once the twinkie is out, should I be able to pull the oil tube up and out? It wiggles but doesn't seem to want to pull out.

Thanks Starfan.... My springs are present... I'm gonna go with the springs not being anywhere near the right tension ( sync way out) and adjust accordingly. But, thanks for the reply

Well I did just do a rebuild, although I was very meticulous about installing the diaphragms.. But I'll definitely look closely at that..

Thanks for the reminder, I'll keep it in mind..

Thanks, allright, maybe I'll go ahead and start the syncing job and see what happens.. The spring on the carb. seems plenty strong. It works pretty well when the bike is off. It easily pulls the throttle to a closed position. Thanks for your insight..

83 Venture Carbs rebuilt, idles nicely...except.. When I release the throttle the idle rises to about 2000 rpm. I removed the throttle to lube it etc., started the bike and the idle still floated up to 2000ish rpm. Hmmmm.. Manually pushed the arm on the carb. the throttle cable attaches to down to the throttle stop screw and the idle was fine. When I let it go, the arm raises off the screw. I saw no binding or tension on either throttle cable. The throttle was still disconnected. When the bike is off the arm will lay nicely on the throttle stop screw. I HAVE NOT as of yet tried to sync the carbs. What is causing the arm to raise up off the throttle stop screw? Could it be so far out of sync that vacuum in one or more carbs is pulling the throttle open?

Woohoo.... I charged the battery and left it on a 10 amp charge rate and the bike turned over without the clanging.. THANKS SO MUCH TO EVERYONE WHO RESPONDED The bike ran real rough, but I immediately determined that the2 right exhausts were only warm... I found that I had plugged the two right coils wrong.. Unplugged, switched and BAM the bike ran much smoother.. I have to solve the antifreeze pissing out of a connection. I think the pressed in pipe the tube clamps to has corroded and will now have to be replaced.. But, the starting clanking is solved so for now alls well...