Droneh8tr

Oh yeah, definitely fuel in the bowl. I drained it then refilled. RandyA, how do I check to see if THIS carb has a vacuum leak other than doing a carb sync.? NOTE TO ALL I may have found the problem. The YICS plug has a tear on top.. Its a single tear across the top like a knife was drug across it.. I'll replace it tomorrow morning and see if the exhaust starts heating up at idle. I found it with a Ryobi inspection camera. I couldnt see it with my flashlight and mirror.

Wow.. Great questions. I wasn't expecting any of them.. 1. No whitish sludge evident in the inlet of that carb. 2. I did carb sync the carbs 1 month ago. But, didn't do it upon this issue. 3. The YICS is removed. The plugs are all still in good shape.

83 VR So I'm idling in the back yard looking for leaks and such.. I hear that the engine doesn't quite sound right. I feel the exhaust pipes and find that #3 isn't hot... at all. Compression is 160, 160, 168, 160.. Good spark.. I dribbled a little gas into the carb and it clearly ignited. I'm thinking it could be an obstructed jet.. So my question is, do I have to remove the carb. and clean, or is their something simpler I could try? Like maybe remove the diaphragm and blow some air somewhere. I meant to also mention, Seafoam didn't seem to make a difference.

Hey Neil86, no.. Also, I just gave it an oil change so I would definitely not expect any residual water sitting anywhere.

UPDATE Yesterday I removed the twinkie, a couple members have suggested that it could be a leak inside the twinkie or maybe a head gasket. As expected their was the off white goo inside. So, I chose the lesser of 2 evils and resealed the twinkie. I did NOT see anything that was blatantly a leak. Ill ride the bike this weekend and keep an eye on the discharge from the twinkie into the airbox. If the problem returns, I'll consider a cylinder leak down test and/or a head gasket replace. Just to reiterate.. I don't see any oil in the antifreeze or any antifreeze in the oil.. #3 cylinders compression was low, but is now at 170. The other cylinders are in the same area. I will from this point forward keep the oil level at 1/2 sight glass and not higher.

So, what are we saying here... My next step should be to remove/reseal the twinkie? If so, what else can I do to help it seal, I had already installed 2 new o rings and the 2 new gaskets.. Perhaps coat the rings and gaskets with some special sealant?

UPDATE I ran Seafoam through the oil and gave it time to work. That #3 cylinder compression came up to 170.. I changed oil.. I am NOT seeing any coolant in the oil, AND I'm not seeing any oil in the coolant... I did find a coolant leak externally which may have accounted for why I was loosing so much coolant. Now as for the oil burning.. I'm gonna run the bike getting it to full operating temperature and continue looking for antifreeze/oil leaks. Also, keep and eye on the airbox to see if the off white goo returns. I say returns because I've since cleaned it and would expect that their is residual in the tube coming from the twinkie. I'm thinking it will and this problem hasn't been resolved. OBSERVATION After starting, I get quite a bit of fluid droplets coming out of the exhaust on both sides. I've tried to determine what it is... coolant, water I just cant tell other than to say it isn't oil. These same fluid droplets will come out of the tube from the twinky into the airbox. (which may explain the off white goo) SSSOOOOO, do these things point to coolant getting into the cylinder, some coming out the exhaust and some blowing by the rings, passing through the twinkie and gooing up the airbox?????? Maybe a blown head gasket?? Any input is appreciated..

Excellent.. as you read, I did the exact same thing.

I did pull the plugs, of course, and actually I was surprised at how clean they were. Well, I had ridden in some rain so maybe I'll clean the air box and see if it comes back. When I get low on oil, generally I fill it to between 1/2 to full on the sight glass. I'll start keeping it close to the 1/2 and see what happens. I had sea foamed the gas for maybe 3 or 4 tanks but not the oil. I'll do both at the same time and see what happens. I was told that when I let up on the gas a puff of white came out the exhaust, he didn't say if it was smoke or steam. So, I've got some things to try before committing to a tear down. I'll try and do these things quickly so I can get on with making a final decision as to what needs doing.

Yeah I agree, it appears to be a water/ oil combo.. No, the oil in the sight glass appears to be pure oil. No, the white goo was not on the interior of the valve cover. Do you think a radiator pressure test is in order as the next step? Clearly something isn't right and I would like to get going on this.. In VA we can ride for well into the year when properly dressed so Im anxious to get input on this.

WOW, that's low.. That's like a new engine.. Oh well, I've got work to do I just have to figure out the best path..

83 Venture I got home on Sunday after a 3361 trip with a friend and the bike ran well except for: @800 miles per quart of oil.. Some leaks spotted but I don't think they amount to this much oil loss. Can't find any spots on the ground Slow loss of radiator fluid.. Can't find any spots on the ground or a wet weep hole Rear brake lever bound up.. Problem was rust had gotten excessive.. Removed, cleaned, lubed.. All good now And a funny one.. Literally 2 miles into the trip the speedometer stopped. I pulled over shortly thereafter and found the cable disconnected behind the instrument panel. Reconnected and all good for the rest of the trip. I must have forgotten to secure it from a prior repair. But, L & G, I'm looking for input on the oil and radiator fluid loss.. Here are the compression results: (done hot) 1. 155 2. 158 3. 139, oil injected and new press. was 152 4. 160 I just spotted this, an off white gelatinous goo in the air box. This would account for the tops of carbs. being wet with oil. A valve clearance was done prior to trip so I feel that's ok. Twinkie seal replaced prior to trip Averaged 37 to 43 MPG:cool10: What else can I check/do to figure out where my oil and radiator fluid are going.

problem solved The solder on the CMS for the fuel level wasn't making contact.... Resoldered and all is good now. Thanks to everyone who responded

Thanks all for giving me ideas.. I did jump the plug end with a resistor. NO CHANGE... The gauge flickers on with 2 bars, goes off and that's it.. I was thinking something on the CMS end also, but I don't know what else I can do to it. I soldered the two rows inside the CMS. Is their anything else that should be soldered?

I will remove the sender again and clean/adjust/ measure and insure contact along its entire length again. It seemed to be working fine the last time. Your right about it being a sensitive area. Them wires are fine.... I did lightly sand the entire length of the contact area and my ohms go up an down. Would one of you please do this for me..... Turn your key to the ON position while watching the fuel gauge.. Do you immediately get a fuel level? Does it flash a fuel level (if so, how much). When do you get a proper fuel level indication. I'm focusing on the flicker of fuel level I get. This seems like an indication that could point to my problem. Maybe I need to recheck my soldering job?? Or maybe resolder other connections on the circuit board. I soldered the 2 rows that was recommended. Is their something else that I should solder?

My fuel level indicator flickers a 2 bar level when the key is turned to ON, but then nothing and of course I get the flashing warning light. I've soldered the circuit board behind the instrument panel, I've cleaned the contacts on the sensor float, and the plug behind the headlight. I've checked the wiring to make sure it's not going to ground or something.. I also measureded the resistance on the sensor and I'm getting 30 ohms. What else can I try or do? The indicator used to work, but has been slowly being more and more intermittent to non existent.

If your interested in NEW desiccant, Im pretty sure I've got 2 packs left which is just enough to do the job. PM me if your interested.

I've gotten quite a few creative solutions to my problem. Each one helps to isolate what the real problem(s) is/are. I'm looking forward to get into these ideas tonight and tomorrow..

Yeah, I'm gonna have to get into this.. Very interesting solution... I will keep this in mind.

Found your post... I'll read it today.. Thanks. Without reading your post yet.. Did you solve your problem? If so, where did you find the problem?

NEW: Battery Stator R/R I realized I had a problem when my trickle charge took all day to charge what should have been a perfectly charged battery. Stator and R/R checked with Ricks Motorsports on the phone.... Both checked good I was going to Load test the battery, maybe today.. Issue: Battery not charging Stator putting out >50 VAC when DISCONNECTED Stator putting out @ 13 VAC when connected AND dropping in voltage with RPD increase. R/R putting out maybe 13.5 volts all times.. I've not found any undesired grounds yet. I still need to test the starter and ignition switch. I'll get home @ 330 today and I plan on testing the starter and probably removing/disassemble/clean the ignition switch. I've only just found this issue so my frustration level isn't high yet. Hopefully I can keep it their.. Any suggestions WOULD be appreciated..

That's what I needed to hear... Many thanks.. I'm having, what I think, are grounding issues and thought I better find it.. Thanks

83 VR Look at any wiring schematic, their is a wire coming off the battery negative to ground... THIS ground is easily seen on the right side of the bike just above the water pump.. Coming off THAT ground wire (in the schematic) is a plug which goes to the ground wire for various components... Just past the plug is a ground to frame... WHERE IS THIS GROUND ON THE BIKE? Thanks

Good morning everyone, I need a left side mirror for the fairing. Mine finally snapped at the base. If you've got a right as well, I would be interested in that also. Thanks

SOLVED everyone... It was the bulb.. But I got the board soldered and found that my high low beam switch was messed up.. so all in all it was all worth it. Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond..