Patch

Well cowpuc.. Seems to me I remember reading a few words a friend of yours wrote not to long ago. Guess he knew who he was vouching for! Shoot man good thing your house is bolted to a foundation> Can just imagine you trying to post it via U.S. Mail

Do you know how to deal with the lenses on the reservoirs?

Not sure I follow? Hmm If that is so then what can be expected as a result of 12V I guess we'll find out soon enough.

I'll share a quick story: So I traveled cross Canada very late in the year 07; I found that power consumption was very much in need of management. You likely need heated grips up front? If you enjoy Fall riding then a heated vest as well? For the Misses as well a heated vest and a " hand muff?" not sure the correct spelling with vest is what I got for my Girl. Patch

There were a couple mentions in your OP, so I am wondering why you decided the “CDI” was bad? “Time passed and we developed a firing problem, so I figured since I had to replace or move the CDI might as well go ahead and “ Perhaps my question is misfiring when, at H.W. speed, idle, can you remember throttle position? Patch

yep, but make sure you don't press the secret button hidden under it or.... who knows?

Steamer if I could have placed that pothole in your path knowing it would form this team; I'd gladly have done so! At your expense of course;) There are some really good foundation guys here at VR! When flyinfool corrected course for me over the solenoid, all I can say, what a bruise to my forehead! I just enjoy troubleshooting with a team.. Well here's hoping the problem is soon to be past tense. Patch

Which is why we mentioned it has to be removed and checked, for future folks looking into it.

And if we knew the voltage output after the switch we could series the triple A to come close to, then we'd be able with ease to rule the tip switch in or out. Simply put we offer the controller the required voltage by bypassing the 12 volt feed! Not sure my English is saying what I'm actually think? But you get the drift.. Patch And also all might not be lost with this switch, if Steamer can remove it the he can or likely reset it.

For all the added work to convert, the one and best argument is getting that atomized ratio so close to the chambers. What a tease;)

Just a quick note: If you plan to rebuild carbs then you should change all wearing parts. The rubber plugs can be problematic if they have shrunk. As too - the jet body gaskets. Important to read the jet # you are removing and compare that to what is listed; sometimes we are rebuilding hoping we clear up a problem which could be a jetting issue. So knowing those # helps. Where we most often go wrong when rebuilding at home is cleaning. We need to clean the outer shells well before soaking, or sure as Murphy chit will migrate to bad places. Use safety glasses when spaying carb cleaner through "every" possible passage, then blow through and watch how the fluid behaves as it jets out. Bench set "every" thing you can, taking your time to double check so you needn't remove them a 2nd time. I use a spay lube before removing them, a quick spray to each then wiggle them in place give them a minute to soak free, then lift up. If they resist much spray them again. The intakes are expensive and rarely on the shelf, so adds to down time! Patch

Not sure if you would like to try a bypass for the tip switch. 3 triple A 1.5v strung together may trick the Control into firing.

Why not order a tip over switch? While you have the time to wait.

Good that you changed sparks.. It is best to just stick to what we do and don't know for the moment. 10v to 0v so intermittent. You should measure the resistance from through the kill switch all the way to the coils as was stated this morning. With the key off go to the fuse box with one lead then to the positive post of the coil and measure. After you note the reading then flip the kill a couple of times, read again and let us know. If there is trouble then we can see it and patch it. But without the tip switch we can't fire the coils because the control module is grounded and out of play. We still suspect the tip switch. It is possible to get some bleed enough to fire, but we call it a slow roll, not a running engine!

So some good advice came through with the setting of cruise. If it still isn't working for you check the operation of the motor like the manual says, jumper the motor make sure it still runs and generates vacuum.

Flinfool "The red/black wire is not powered by the Starter relay" F**ck me how stupid of me! Of course I just reread your post thinking I missed something, jeepers that was really dumb of me.

Knowing this now, I would (if it were me), continue to rule the modules in or out and not go straight to the Control box. Like I mentioned yesterday that could just blow another box. Something must of triggered this fail. So we assume the tip switch stayed in play. We know voltage is 10v at the coils. We know the starter circuit was working. And we know the pickup coil is good. Not sure what causes the control to trigger the engine light, could be a combination of things? Sticking to a plan is all I know for trouble shooting.

Bummer the warning light is off the starter circuit. Well it will need testing Correction Control unit..

Wow all on the same page;) Absolutely correct flynnfool there could be a problem or more specifically a corroded wire/connection after the kill to the coils! Likely why bongo is having him test that lead to the coils, if I understood right. We assume there is voltage because the starter circuit is triggering the fuel pump. However I assumed the solenoid was tested so a fail is a fail. Baylensman makes a valid point as well. Not sure I would allow the engine light to distract me from simply ruling in or out of modules along the way. Bongo, personally I am very curious about the voltage drop at the tip switch? "just in";) "I measured the resistance across my switch and came up with 21.4K ohms," I can't see them being that different but perhaps check the battery. Did Steamer not try to vibrate his tip switch?? and remeasure again??hmm You can use a dimmer switch to test....

Well if you have no voltage or reduce voltage at the coils, the Starter Solenoid is the likely cause, could also have been resistance at the kill or in the Red/Black wire to the coils, according to the wiring diagram. Best to test before changing parts or it can get pretty expensive. Because she started once or twice but not running strong, I was curious about juice at the coils! Many a time I've found on old bikes that start warm but not cold or damp; usually the cause is low voltage at the coils. Good!

Hey Steamer, so at time of writing this and as far as I know the engine is still not running. So Steamer the question for the coils is for direction. Because she did start briefly- yes there was voltage! That is only a snap shot! By knowing if there is voltage before cranking, then knowing if the sparkplugs are getting the charge by looking at a testing light, then we can assume all we need is gas. But if she runs then quits - – without turning the key to off - we check again for power at the coils and how much, 11 or 12.3 should be close to battery voltage! So I can’t emphasize enough, it is only a snap shot! That could point the way! I would check the starter relay following the instructions on page 8-16, #5 Likely it is what you played with when she started briefly. This is out of order for troubleshooting but with some luck?? It also sends power across the kill switch down to the starting circuit (which sends signal to Control Module and side stand switch) - AS well lights the coils, all after the kill switch! So side stepping fuel for the moment: I would measure the voltage coming out of the tip switch, as she sits at the moment. Then I’d take a dowel and knock lightly with a hammer to cause it to vibrate some; then measure the voltage again. Any change amounts to knowing more. Personally I would want to also know the resistance reading at the tip switch. Next because it’s easy I would measure the pickup coil. If it is weak the control module can’t switch to fire the coils. Next is the start circuit not easy when you are unsure but… page 8-15 So Steamer we can assume as you just mentioned that the “tci” is not working, but we don’t know the reason for this, yet! It could be perfectly fine! I wouldn’t just throw one on, you run the risk of damaging the unit. Along the way it doesn’t hurt to pull a connection plug apart and clean it while you're there…

Hey Buddy, was wondering how this turned out for you?

I'll be posting a short troubleshooting list for you later in the day. In the meantime could you check the pump motor you see at the end of the vacuum hose. Also if you could make the time to participate in covering the cost of admin by becoming a supporting member, thanks Patch

Does anyone know which relay? Steamer, when we want to troubleshoot no start or whatever the case may be, we need to follow a path eliminate possibilities, check off the list! Just to mention a difference, by this point I would have stopped fuel to the engine by disconnecting the pump. My reasoning would be I've ruled it out 1st and 2nd you are flooding her with every stoke! she is soaked and so are the plugs.. Just a light on the spark plug is all we need, at least from this distance.. In Run position id there power at the coils?

Throttle also properly positioned? push/pull The plug/connectors in the control box? OK I'll refresh by looking at the diagram before suggesting you check in the attic. I'll get back to you