BratmanXj

1st thing I tried before I even came to the forum... With the LED strips installed, the OEM turn signals connected and the C.D. LED run/brake board disconnected - still had the whacky yellow turn signal flash on the LED strips as shown in the original video.

"Converter" box I was speaking of....it's the control box that runs the input to the LEDs. Its NOT a trailer plug converter! So I set the DVOM to 200k Ohms and tested the leads going TO the LEDs (or should I say going into the control box) and have resistance ranging from 7.5k to 178k. Do we need the whole breakdown of impedance? So, please teach me O' wise one. How do I fix this mess?

I was about to order a set of Custom Dynamics Plasma Rods for $180 and my Kawi riding buddies swear by these. I know of at least 2 guys who have wired them on Nomad or Vaquero with out much hassle. http://m-factorystore.com/for-vulcan-1700-vaquero-voyager-integrated-30cm-led-turn-signal-tail-brake-light/

Hold your horses there guy....The LEDs are 3 wire and there is a small box that came with them to make it a 4-wire system. I'll post more photos when I get home tonight, stupid forum not getting my point across!

I have not made it out for any of this forums meet-ups. I know we chatted about how far you are from the crazy pink house. I misinterpreted what you wanted tested! I'll poke around a bit on the bike tonight and get back on here to discuss. There is a "converter" box on the LEDs to go from 4 wire input (Run-Brake-Turn-Ground) to 3 wire on the strip.

To clarify... You want to check the continuity on the LED strips or on the BIKE OEM lights? The yellow turn indicators turn off the red lights on the LED strip. Closer... Heck I'm just over the IL/IN boarder and could be up to you in a few hours.

Ok, I THOUGHT I knew what I was doing....famous last words. When I disconnect the OEM tail/turn harness at the connector by the battery and check for continuity the factory green & brown turn signal wires have continuity along with the black ground wire. With the OEM tail/turn disconnected the new LED strips fully function with run/brake & turns. So where do I need to add the diodes? I thought I needed to add them to the breakout harness with the green & brown turn leads going to the LEDS but that didn't work.

The Left & Right turn signals have continuity between them as well as with the ground wire. And as soon as it sat down to check them it made sense to put a diode in-line with each LED to control back-feed.

The LED strip lights have 4 wires per side. Before I mounted them I did connect them directly to battery and check Run-Brake-Turn features and they were all functioning. Edit: I also ran a direct jumper from the harness ground to the battery for testing purposes with no change. The Yellow Wire from each respective LED strip is wired to the Brown or Green to activate the turn signals feature. Per your original post, I went out and disconnected the back end of the bike from the breakout harness and the LED strips functioned properly with Run, Brake, & Hazard working correctly, the turn signal would have a fast flash because the obvious load issue with the rear incandescent bulb no longer connected. The leads me to believe that FlyinFool's comment about the factory bulbs shorting might be true. I'm fine with basic electrical modifications, but without sitting down at the bike with jumpers I'm a little lost on how to remedy this one.

Videos should be fixed now... Yes, the factory tails are all hooked up, I'll try tonight with them unplugged. I'll also jumper the ground lead directly to the battery. Thanks for the tips.

Here's a video of my ridding buddies Kawi Nomad with the exact same lights....

This is going to be a long post with lots of photos & videos.... Long story short, I'm trying to add Run-Brake-Turn LED strips like my buddy's bike and they aren't working as expected. Hoping someone here can help me out. I purchased an Aux Light Harness from Steve (aka M61A1MECH) and some 12" 3-way LED light bars from M-FactoryStore on good reviews from my Kawi riding buddies. I try to wire the lights up by the directions & wiring diagrams: The instructions from the lights The instructions on the jumper harness from Steve My actual wiring the with: Black - Black for Ground Blue - Red for Running lights Yellow - White for Brake Lights I didn't show the Brown/Green turns in this photo.... The Run/Brake lights work as expected, but my turn signals are completely out of whack almost like the LED's are not getting enough voltage for the yellow turn to over-ride the red brake lights. I have a custom dynamics brake light board in the factory lens, but the turn signals are all incandescent bulbs. Anyone else ever experience this?

I purchased it off eBay stating it was from a Stratoliner S and the wheel is a high polished cast aluminum with chrome rotors. It has been years since I've seen a Stratoliner / Roadliner in person & up close. I'm not sure if it was only a polished option vs rough cast or if there truly was a chromed wheel.

Are you fitting the stock Royal Star rotors to the Stratoliner wheel or did you get Stratoliner rotors?

I'm not aware of any cost effective rear wheel replacements that are compatable with the shaft drive. As mentioned, the Stratoliner / Roadliner 18" wheel is a direct swap, look for an S model that's chrome for a little more bling but the standard cast polishes up nicely. I got lucky and found one WITH the factory polished full floating rotors.

I've had good luck with both Shinkos that fit our bikes, the 777 & 230. I was getting 8-10k miles on a rear. Softer rubber so they gripped like hell wet or dry. I switched to the Dunlap E4 when they came out since they increased the load rating over the E3. I picked up a 2nd bike last year and only have 4k miles since installing it. So far it's been a very good tire both wet and dry but I haven't pushed it much.

I used TYRE for a while to do some Google routing then take it out to MapSource. The interface was originally built around TomTom but it would function with Garmin. But the interface got worse over the years and its no longer as nice. BaseCamp has a better custom routing generator than MapSource and I've (slowly) taken to it.

State of Illinois to go on "Shelter In Place" protocols tomorrow, waiting to see if Indiana follows suite. Indiana has already extended the school closings for May 1st, my son is in kindergarden. The wife is a teacher in IL in the south Chicago suburbs and no news since the April 6th initial notice. Thankfully she's home because I am NOT the best teacher for a 6yr old.

Mine were painted Hurst Olds gold when I got them, since I have a '99 Titanium Grey & Marble Silver that really looks more Champaign Beige/Gold to me I didn't mind the gold calipers. I think they used regular rattle-can paint as it wiped off with brake clean during the rebuild. Any good high-temp paint should be fine, not that our calipers get as hot as automotive calipers being out in the wind. I'd be more concerned about prep. What is the OEM finish on the R1? If they have a glossy finish the the Road Star line you'll need to roughen them up to get paint to adhere. If they are crinkle coat finish you might have to completely strip them.

I've got a few select stocks on my radar including paper product and disinfectant producers, they should see record quarters. Otherwise...ride out the waves. I had just started Roth conversions last year, so the dip might be a good time to bite off the rest of the swap.

I still keep MapSource installed on my computer for some of my older data point files & routes, it was my go to for the longest time. Garmin has basically forced us to use BaseCamp now, I'm still not 100% comfortable with it but getting better.

Just over the Indiana boarder from Chicago its been steadily dropping the last 2 weeks. I paid $1.79 last night to fill up the car with regular, if you're a club member Costco & Sams are just under $1.50.

Did a quick eBay search starting with "Road Star Warrior Caliper" and matched pairs of calipers that would work range from $45-$65 with this seller: https://www.ebay.com/usr/thepartresource?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 I'm 99% sure that the 1900cc Stratoliner, Roadliner & Raider all use compatible calipers, too.

A little bit of data and internet hunting and it's not a hard job at all. I was able to purchase an entire front setup (master & calipers) from an RS Warrior forum member. I've got two buddies with RSW and I've worked on them and put on a few miles. Parts-Bin engineering is my favorite thing to do and knowing the setup on those it was a fairly simple swap. My work car is a Mazda3i, the lowest model in the line-up. I've swapped in the big brakes, springs & swaybars, and some minor intake & exhaust upgrades all used OEM parts from other Mazda's for a fraction of the performance parts price.

As an engineer I like facts and figures. Around here we obvious have a good health care system that can tackle this so long as we don't let it get out of control. A friend of mine posted this article that has a "random test generator" built into the article, every time you click this link you'll see a different outcome from each of the samples! This gives a visual of how "taking precautions" for a few weeks will slow the spread and not inundate the health care system. https://www.washingtonpost.com/graphics/2020/world/corona-simulator/?fbclid=IwAR0-m8VM0Nxi7e9aIXWZJmavqxsWWQ6kf18ZNMPsLF-4EOabZYEhlFL37do