BratmanXj

The LED strip lights have 4 wires per side. Before I mounted them I did connect them directly to battery and check Run-Brake-Turn features and they were all functioning. Edit: I also ran a direct jumper from the harness ground to the battery for testing purposes with no change. The Yellow Wire from each respective LED strip is wired to the Brown or Green to activate the turn signals feature. Per your original post, I went out and disconnected the back end of the bike from the breakout harness and the LED strips functioned properly with Run, Brake, & Hazard working correctly, the turn signal would have a fast flash because the obvious load issue with the rear incandescent bulb no longer connected. The leads me to believe that FlyinFool's comment about the factory bulbs shorting might be true. I'm fine with basic electrical modifications, but without sitting down at the bike with jumpers I'm a little lost on how to remedy this one.

Videos should be fixed now... Yes, the factory tails are all hooked up, I'll try tonight with them unplugged. I'll also jumper the ground lead directly to the battery. Thanks for the tips.

Here's a video of my ridding buddies Kawi Nomad with the exact same lights....

This is going to be a long post with lots of photos & videos.... Long story short, I'm trying to add Run-Brake-Turn LED strips like my buddy's bike and they aren't working as expected. Hoping someone here can help me out. I purchased an Aux Light Harness from Steve (aka M61A1MECH) and some 12" 3-way LED light bars from M-FactoryStore on good reviews from my Kawi riding buddies. I try to wire the lights up by the directions & wiring diagrams: The instructions from the lights The instructions on the jumper harness from Steve My actual wiring the with: Black - Black for Ground Blue - Red for Running lights Yellow - White for Brake Lights I didn't show the Brown/Green turns in this photo.... The Run/Brake lights work as expected, but my turn signals are completely out of whack almost like the LED's are not getting enough voltage for the yellow turn to over-ride the red brake lights. I have a custom dynamics brake light board in the factory lens, but the turn signals are all incandescent bulbs. Anyone else ever experience this?

I purchased it off eBay stating it was from a Stratoliner S and the wheel is a high polished cast aluminum with chrome rotors. It has been years since I've seen a Stratoliner / Roadliner in person & up close. I'm not sure if it was only a polished option vs rough cast or if there truly was a chromed wheel.

Are you fitting the stock Royal Star rotors to the Stratoliner wheel or did you get Stratoliner rotors?

I'm not aware of any cost effective rear wheel replacements that are compatable with the shaft drive. As mentioned, the Stratoliner / Roadliner 18" wheel is a direct swap, look for an S model that's chrome for a little more bling but the standard cast polishes up nicely. I got lucky and found one WITH the factory polished full floating rotors.

I've had good luck with both Shinkos that fit our bikes, the 777 & 230. I was getting 8-10k miles on a rear. Softer rubber so they gripped like hell wet or dry. I switched to the Dunlap E4 when they came out since they increased the load rating over the E3. I picked up a 2nd bike last year and only have 4k miles since installing it. So far it's been a very good tire both wet and dry but I haven't pushed it much.

I used TYRE for a while to do some Google routing then take it out to MapSource. The interface was originally built around TomTom but it would function with Garmin. But the interface got worse over the years and its no longer as nice. BaseCamp has a better custom routing generator than MapSource and I've (slowly) taken to it.

State of Illinois to go on "Shelter In Place" protocols tomorrow, waiting to see if Indiana follows suite. Indiana has already extended the school closings for May 1st, my son is in kindergarden. The wife is a teacher in IL in the south Chicago suburbs and no news since the April 6th initial notice. Thankfully she's home because I am NOT the best teacher for a 6yr old.

Mine were painted Hurst Olds gold when I got them, since I have a '99 Titanium Grey & Marble Silver that really looks more Champaign Beige/Gold to me I didn't mind the gold calipers. I think they used regular rattle-can paint as it wiped off with brake clean during the rebuild. Any good high-temp paint should be fine, not that our calipers get as hot as automotive calipers being out in the wind. I'd be more concerned about prep. What is the OEM finish on the R1? If they have a glossy finish the the Road Star line you'll need to roughen them up to get paint to adhere. If they are crinkle coat finish you might have to completely strip them.

I've got a few select stocks on my radar including paper product and disinfectant producers, they should see record quarters. Otherwise...ride out the waves. I had just started Roth conversions last year, so the dip might be a good time to bite off the rest of the swap.

I still keep MapSource installed on my computer for some of my older data point files & routes, it was my go to for the longest time. Garmin has basically forced us to use BaseCamp now, I'm still not 100% comfortable with it but getting better.

Just over the Indiana boarder from Chicago its been steadily dropping the last 2 weeks. I paid $1.79 last night to fill up the car with regular, if you're a club member Costco & Sams are just under $1.50.

Did a quick eBay search starting with "Road Star Warrior Caliper" and matched pairs of calipers that would work range from $45-$65 with this seller: https://www.ebay.com/usr/thepartresource?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 I'm 99% sure that the 1900cc Stratoliner, Roadliner & Raider all use compatible calipers, too.

A little bit of data and internet hunting and it's not a hard job at all. I was able to purchase an entire front setup (master & calipers) from an RS Warrior forum member. I've got two buddies with RSW and I've worked on them and put on a few miles. Parts-Bin engineering is my favorite thing to do and knowing the setup on those it was a fairly simple swap. My work car is a Mazda3i, the lowest model in the line-up. I've swapped in the big brakes, springs & swaybars, and some minor intake & exhaust upgrades all used OEM parts from other Mazda's for a fraction of the performance parts price.

As an engineer I like facts and figures. Around here we obvious have a good health care system that can tackle this so long as we don't let it get out of control. A friend of mine posted this article that has a "random test generator" built into the article, every time you click this link you'll see a different outcome from each of the samples! This gives a visual of how "taking precautions" for a few weeks will slow the spread and not inundate the health care system. https://www.washingtonpost.com/graphics/2020/world/corona-simulator/?fbclid=IwAR0-m8VM0Nxi7e9aIXWZJmavqxsWWQ6kf18ZNMPsLF-4EOabZYEhlFL37do

1. replace the front and rear brake lines with stainless steel. As mentioned, SkyDoc makes a set of lines that fit for the 4-piston upgrade. I don't believe there are any other commercial options available for a "swapped" bike, only factory. 2. replace the clutch hydraulic line with stainless steel line. SkyDoc or other commercial options out there 3. replace the front calipers with R1/R6 calipers, either quality rebuilt or new. eBay used is your best bet and find the coresponding All-Balls rebuild kits. Its not hard to rebuild a MC brake caliper and there are a lot of youtube videos out there. 4. replace the rear caliper with R1/R6 if that will give braking improvement. OEM is more than sufficient for these bikes, I wouldn't modify the rears at all. People have even complained about to much power after installing Stainless lines with the OEM setup. 5. do what is necessary to the master cyclinders. The stock 5/8" master on the handlebars will work with the upgraded 4-piston brakes. Just doing the caliper swap greatly inproves the brakes. I recommend getting the 14mm master from a late model 1700cc Road Star or early ('02-"05) Road Star Warrior. I rode my bike with the 5/8" then swapped to the 14mm and the "feel" changed for the better, I had a shorter travel to initial "bite" and better progressive "control" of braking power with the 14mm. Again, the 5/8" will work with the caliper upgrade. 6. install speed bleeders all the way around. I've had some that were fine, and some that were VERY soft metal and snapped in half while tightening with 1 finger on the wrench. I like the concept and hope you have better luck than I. I don't mind spending the money to do this right. My questions are: 1. where can I get stainless steel lines that are custom cut for the 2008 RSV? See above - SkyDoc 2. if I replace the calipers, will they come with the pads installed? You'll most likely be buying used, so get new pads. Also rebuild the caliper with new seals, I've had good luck with All Balls brand. 3. what are the best performing brake pads if I need to get pads? Front EBC FA252HH - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00666FM9G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.JHCEb2BQTT8T Rear EBC FA123 or FA123V -https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00666H4CE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_RIHCEbE1GPRJH 4. how can I determine which R1/R6 calipers will fit my RSV? Any model that mounts horizontally into the fork leg. When I was searching eBay the sellers were really vague on years & fitment, so it was just simpler to actually look at the calipers. '02-'05 Yamaha XV1700 Road Star Warrior or '07-up Yamaha XV1700 Road Star. These will also have the matching 14mm brushed or chrome brake master cylinder if you do choose to go that route. R1 & R6 Gold Dot or Blue Dot calipers You DO NOT want radial mounted calipers from later models of the R1, R6 or Warrior.

I ran a 230 & a 777, Less than 10,000 miles and both were well worn. They handled well, excellent wet traction and had a high load rating. I've since switched to the Dunlop E4; like Zagger said, what I was saving in tire I was spending in time/effort to change tires more frequently. If you're an in-frequent rider and your rubber ages out before it wears out they might not be a bad investment.

An engineering Lunch & Learn seminar I try to attend every year is at the local range, as the sales guy/instructor is also a semi-pro shooter. He pulled a 500 out of his bag this past year, gave a few of us bigger guys a little info on shooting it and handed it off. I put 3 rounds through and told him I still had to go back and type up a report and this things gonna make my hand numb. I did shoot my buddies Ruger 7" 44 Mag. & 6" 367 Mag. a bit the last time we went to the range, fun guns to toy with but I'd never really have a reason to own one.

When I was searching for my Ural sidecar I happened to visit a local Vanderhall dealer that had a used bike I wanted to look at. I did check them out and I dig the "classic British car" vibe these have vs the ultra-modern style of the Slingshots. There are a few Vanderhaulls roaming the streets of greater Chicago and I've seen 3 in the wild. I have a very indecisive lawyer buddy who "wants" to be a gearhead, but doesn't know what end of a screwdriver to use. He's been getting mad at me shooting down all his ideas.... Cabin Cruiser on Lake Michigan - what do you do when you break down out on the water? lets keep it on land. 60's MG / Triumph - you wouldn't know what to do with Lucas electronics He didn't like the Mazda Miata idea cause its to common. He throws out the idea of a Slingshot but that's not really his style so I turned him onto the Vanderhaull this winter. He wants me to go shopping with him come spring, its an idea we both finally agree on.

I bought the bike in '13 with a few maintenance issues. I rehab'd the back end in Sept '13 with the Hagon shock to replace the blown factory, pulled the swing arm for a full grease and torque. It's checked every year as part of spring maintenance. The Straoliner front wheel went on in the Spring '14 with a new Michelin tire. Front end was rebuilt Winter '15 with new bearings, up-rated spring and fresh fork oil. Previous owner had the neck WAY to loose and there was a noticeable "detente" in the steering. CT went on in 2016. The Hagon shock raised the back end 1/2" higher than stock, the front end sits about 1/2" lower than stock, plus the narrow tire just didn't site well with THIS SPECIFIC tire. From what I understood in my reserch the Nexan is slightly taller than stock and I think I just pushed my rake/trail numbers to far with ALL the modifications. I do plan on trying the BFG at some point as it's slightly shorter than stock.

I had the same issue with the Nexan and tried everything from 30-45psi and couldn't get rid of the vague wandering feeling at highway speeds. I also have a Hagon HD rear shock, 130-18" front wheel from a Stratoliner, and beefed up front springs. I assumed my issues of wander were due to the higher suspension setup and narrower front tire. I did a December Toys For Tots run in 2" of snow and the CT stuck like hell. Braking was greatly improved, handling was great solo or two-up for anything under 65mph. I ended up with a Dunlop E4 for my next tire, I still have a 2nd rim sitting in the shed and will probably try the BFG CT next go round. As noted, it sits lower than the Nexan and that might change the rake/trail geometry of my bike back to something stable at highway speeds.

Years ago when my father had to go on a CPAP machine for his snoring they said to stop sleeping on your back. My mom stitched up a t-shirt with pockets on the back to put racket balls so my dad couldn't sleep on his back.

Not stronger, but there is an easy way to strengthen the bars as they are. I drilled and tapped the middle of the foot board bracket and extended a small metal arm to an extra bar clamp on the crash bar, giving it some triangulation support. I'm a big guy and I use to feel the highway pegs flex when riding, ever since they've been rock solid. I had a very soft tip over one time in the garage and the bars took the weight of the bike with no ill effects. I thought I had a photo, but I can post one later. I believe someone in the vendor forums still sells the kits for the brace.