BratmanXj

When you get a drivers license now to have to prove schooling, supervised driving time under permit, and pass a little more through driving test. The MC license process in IL & IN is take 20 question test to get your permit; come back 2 weeks later and you can road test a cone weave that takes 10 min. The MC licensing system leaves a lot to be desired on education & training. On that note, I have a friend who was a MC instructor for MSF and we'd get a group together every spring to a "Refresher Class" and run through the classwork. I'm 6'2" 260lb, I ride a bike I feel I can handle and that suites me, I don't believe everyone should be puttering around on 250. I did time riding dirt growing up and had the abilities to transition to a street bike when I decided, I do regular training...but how many people do?

Reasons why I wish the US would adopt a graduated license system like most of Europe. I've had many friends go "kid in a candy store" when buying their 1st bikes and get something way to large and powerful for their abilities. I've been on dirt bikes for years and its a great learning tool for moving up to a street bike.

http://www.nwitimes.com/news/local/crime-and-courts/police-crown-point-biker-arrested-after-going-mph-and-weaving/article_1e7838ff-4b83-5bf6-946e-050d358b6104.html Commuting into work yesterday morning on the MC this kid blew past me IN MY LANE. I was moving at a very good clip and he passed me like I was standing still. 2 exits down the highway I see him pulled over. Tell one of the "car" guys at work about this dufus and I get an e-mail later in the day asking if this was the bike I saw. 135mph on the SHOULDER?!? They don't sweep the highways very well (or often) on the IN side of the state line near Chicago, its all peagravel and debris.

I found they fit very nicely under the right passenger floorboard where the two exhaust pipes come together.

For those who have cut the factory shield down, how was the result? I don't mean in terms of finish - I'm a carpenter, I cut and fit things for a living, and used to make templates out of plexi-glass. I mean how much did you cut, and were you happy with the wind/rain protection and smoothness of the airflow afterward? Otherwise, tell me about your experience with a replacement windscreen. Slipstream shields are pretty inexpensive on eBay. I have a 10" that I was looking OVER but i'm 6'2". They also have an 8" & believe 6" as well all for $60 or less last time I checked. I had an issue with buffeting on the top of my head when I wore a helmet, otherwise windflow was just over my head. Driving lights - do they have Hi/Lo like the headlight, or only one loudness? Spot or Driving lights should only be on with your low beam headlight and turn off with High beams if factory wired. They only have one brightness. Does anyone have one of those headlight modulator dealy-o's? What do you think of them? Had them on previous bike (sport tourer) and was indifferent, people in Chicago just don't pay attention regardless. ETA: a couple more questions! If you've done any performance upgrades to your GenII, what were you most happy with? What do you feel you could've not bothered with? Mine is stock except for some slip-on mufflers. Not much to be gained without major work. Slip-on mufflers mostly for sound, minor performance gain. Intakes are tough to modify for very little gain. There is an ECM upgrade but that raises the RPM level and if you don't rev the motor much (this is a cruiser/tourer) its of little gain. Some guys have swapped cams & springs from a V-Max, but in my opinion that's a high-rpm gain. If you do a lot of 2-up riding, plan to pull a trailer, or live in the mountains the big upgrade is swapping the rear gearing for a V-Max. More acceleration, better use of 4th & 5th gear at 55mph. Downside is higher rpm if you're riding the super-slabs at 70-80+ mph. Phone mount....Ram makes clutch cover adapters and a X-Grip:

Buddy tried to add a bluetooth amp to his '96 Wing Aspencade and now his audio is going haywire. Speakers are cutting in and out. From what I can tell the Wings don't have front to rear fader abilities, speakers are only split left to right? Does anyone have access to a wiring diagram for a '96 Goldwing?

This is a cast wheel that I spent the time to polish up to a nice shine....I've only been around a few Roadliners but I believe there was a chromed model available. All Stratoliner/Roadliner rotors are chrome full-floater.

Haha...I've his question on an old Post of mine prompt him to ask.

Stratoliner & Roadliner have cast 18" wheels, the higher line S model is the chrome wheel. I found mine, with matching floating rotors & the wheel weight for $160 on eBay. I purchased new tire, bearings & the internal spacer and was ready to ride.

I'd assume you have all the necessary paperwork showing the trade-in is now owned by the offending dealer. I'd reach out the the loan company on the HD, supply the necessary documents and hopefully get a temporary hold on the load while you initiate legal preceding. You might need to file a police report to have documentation that the offending dealer is participating in this "scam" but a minor issue at this point to protect your good credit.

After a bit of research on the Stratoliner pages I ended up running a Michelin Pilot Active 130/70-18. Its actually a rear tire intended for older CB & KZ style UJM bikes. Run it in "reverse" rotation on the front and it has been a GREAT tire.

Most any car forum or when I was on the HD forum with my past bike I had a "get in, get my information, and get out" mentality. To easy to get into pissing matches, and everyone had an ego. When I was on the Concours forum or now this one we have a common knowledge that we are the odd-balls riding these things and have more a sense of humor about it.

Hmmm, I've ran a few detail shops and it's always a big NO-NO for tire dressing. And I'd be very careful what you put on the seat or floorboards that you don't go slip-sliding around.

Ding Ding Ding...I couldn't remember what bike HAD and what bike I've ADDED a fuel filter. Being that buried under the seat I wonder how many people change them regularly. With that, mine is probably 4 yrs old and in need of a change.

With normal use, decent maintenance, and good fuel carbs are no harder to maintain that FI. Somewhere there is an article on how to add a $4 fuel filter to the bike, good preventative maintenance. Regular use and good fuel go hand in hand for water (leading to tank rust) or stale fuel sitting in the carbs to gum things up. I'm in Chicago and have normal winter layup from January-April with sporadic riding during that time. I keep the tank topped off, a splash of fuel stabilizer (Stabil or Seafoam) and no issues with any of my carbed bikes (mowers, tractors, snow thrower, etc) I've owned.

Direct swap with the exact same wheel spacers, full floating rotors on the stratoliner as well.

The best I have been able to figure is the weight is opposite the drive-shaft of the bike and it offsets the rotational "moment" force that would want to turn the bike to the left. With that, I did remove them from my stock front wheel and noticed no ill effects. When I switched to the Stratoliner front wheel it came with an inset "doughnut" weight and leaves the rotors open. The bolt pattern is the same for both wheels and you could swap in the Stratoliner weight when removing the pie-plates.

I spend a few hour playing with the wiring on on Saturday night and it seems to have gone away now that the fairing is open. So time for some preventative maintenance: 1. A can of contact cleaner and a toothbrush and go to town on the electrical system. 2. Dielectric grease all the connectors 3. Make sure to be very careful when "repacking" all the harnesses back into the fairing.

Thank you everyone for your help....and for the future people looking for more info (like I was). I had a forum member offer me a Clearview off his recently purchased bike for a GREAT price. the $12 a year membership to this forum really does pay off in the long run.

And the vent is holding up fine after how many years/miles? I plan to keep my short Slipstream shield as well as the OEM that's in the box on the shelf...but like you I want a One Size Fits All replacement.

I've looked at them, and in the past used Laminar Lip products on my sport-tourer. 1. I've never been a fan of tinted shields on my motorcycles. I have light-sensitivity issues with my eyes and ALWAYS have sunglasses on. The tinted shield makes me lose view of the road. 2. I've been happy with the height of the Slipstream I have now, I'd like the re-curve to get the wind over her as the passenger. I do not have a "need" for anything lower than that, even in cold or wet I like looking OVER the shield. 3. I'm not sold on the vent especially since is a $70 option on the Clearview ($236 vs $167).

I've been looking over the forum and most of the posts on windshields are 3+ yrs old so looking for some updated information: I like to look over the windshield on my RSV and quickly removed the factory 20" windshield and replaced it with a 10" Slipstream model. The top edge falls perfectly just below my line of sight, about the tip of the nose. My problem is the wife complains of wind buffeting since she site so much higher on this vs my previous Road King, I also get some helmet buffeting depending on what I wear. Clearview & F4 appear to be the two most popular options. I'm leaning towards the Clearview because of the recurve and getting the airflow up & over us. Does anyone else offer a recurve? Both Clearview & F4 offer vents, but I've seen some complaints of the vents getting "loose" with age and not staying closed. Is this an issue? Edit: it was noted in the past that forum members get a 10% discount. Before I reach out to Clearview I was wondering if anyone else has used them lately and received the discount?

Been there, done that...had an intermittent issue my Mercury Mariner a few years back. Finally traced it down to a bad ground under the drivers seat. The irony was I had already checked to make sure the bolt was tight, but it was cross-threaded and didn't SEAT all the way down leaving an intermittent dropping ground. Again...hoping its a case of bad meter and I'll take a look at it again tonight with fresh batteries and/or different meter.

Exactly why I didn't do anything without the draw showing up on the meter. When I touch the red cable back to the battery it does arc a little, so I believe the draw is still present.

So I go out to the garage yesterday and pull the fairing face off... Now I can't "find" the power draw?!? Need to pick up some new batteries for the multi-meter, all out of 9v and the one in my meter was weak. Also going to grab my buddies Amp-Clamp and high-end fluke meter (the perks of a best friend who was a diesel mechanic).