cowpuc

I am 100% sure that either POTUS candidate will continue the aggressive approach to Covid that has been being taken under our current administration. Without a doubt, the production of ventilators and Vaccine research that America knows the world depends on will not be ceased no matter who wins in Nov IMHO. The U.S. people will remain united in its effort to conquer the evil that the Chinese Communist Party released onto the world. On the same token though, and I know this is deeply an American thing and I personally would never expect a non U.S. Citizen to understand the depth of this because, quite frankly, it seems there are many actual U.S. Citizens this means nothing to, but take a second Bum and read what one of our countries Patriots of long ago wrote, this was penned by Patrick Henry back in 1775 and I assure you, there are many many American Patriots that still cling to and believe that there really are some things much more important than life itself = "Give me Liberty or give me death". Hopefully this shines a light for you to understand that no, Covid and the fear of it are not at the top of the list of reasons many Americans are indeed voting for the right person to lead them.

Thanks Squid!! That moon thingy was really starting to get under my skin lol

Thanks Spence!!! Here ya go folks, take a peek!!

May sounds nuts but IMHO,, heat means lean combustion or coolant issue or ignition timing. Does the physical head/jug on the hot exhaust reading pot read way high? Dont sound like does, sounds like your taking your reading from the header pipes? If so, IMHO, sounds like exhaust temps. That leaves me with the thought that it probably has to do with a lean fuel/air mix condition like Sky mentions because ignition timing issues would probably show up on the other pots as well. Sucking air can cause a lean condition,, a vacuum leak. Have you tried syncing the carbs? Also, maybe try running an unlit propane torch closely over the carb/intake area while it running and see if you get a change in idle - vacuum sucks in the propane gas which combusts,, make sense? Pay special attention to the intake manifolds and carb sync caps,, IMHO those seem to be volnerable. When you pull the plug check the gap,, seriously wide gapped (should be 32 thou) plug can cause strange things too.. That long arcing has caused overheat for me on my MX bikes at times.. It is also possible for you to have lost fuel metering rod setting on that jug allowing the metering rod to drop lower into the emulsion tube when in turn will lean it out. Those metering rods are how a decent mechanic will fine tune a scoot, at least IMHO.. I would maybe pull the carb slide on that jug and get a peek. Maybe even pull em all if you havent recently, and check diaphram conditions.. It would be interesting to see how a sniffer read on that pot compared to the others,,, or at a minimum a Color Tune,, again,, IMHO.. I know,, all sounds like madness BUT,, ya never know till ya try.. Puc

Still cant tell your RIGHT from your LEFT,,,,, eh LOL.

Patch,, maybe take a quick read of Pops post from the 1st page of this thread.. Test till the cows come home but in this case it appears that Pops successfully proved Bums theory and moved on LOL

IMHO, the wise will study Hitler's playbook and strive to understand how he and Goebbels used the brand new social media of that era (Radio) to, thru extremely controlled propaganda and denying the general public access to the truth, capture and control the minds and rational thinking of the masses to the point that even to this day there are those who are convinced that the holocaust never happened. SCARY stuff INDEED!!

Oh Tip n I are definitely voting for the right one only in my home State of Michigan, our Governor will not allow early walk in voting. If we want to vote early our only option is by mail and around here, Lord only knows what happens to our poor ballots once you drop em in a mail box.. We have to vote in person on Nov 3rd if we really want to know our vote matters which, if that is no concern,, why vote? IMHO of course..

EXACTLY!!! Me n Sky,,, we are lop eared brake bleedin brother varmints LOL.. @BlueSky,, what you are describing is EXACTLY what I was trying to explain only I use a section of clear hose pointing upward away from the bleeder to capture the bled fluid so no air can get back into the system. I TOTALLY get what you mean about losing the pedal pumpers brother, TOTALLY!!! LOVE IT BROTHER!!! YOU DA MAN!

I think @saddlebum and/or @Marcarl can defend their own selves on this one but I do not believe the water finding its way to the bottom of the bowl is dependent upon pressure above ambient or vacuum for that matter so yes,, I agree @Patch , the 15 psi thingy is totally not relevant IMHO.. From that I would suggest just taking a small clear jar, fill it 1/2 full of gas, then take some coolant or just water and drip some into it and watch what happens. Once you notice the water collecting in the bottom take the jar and shake it,, after you do I have a gut feeling that the water will be gone as it mixes with the fuel BUT, if you let it sit the water will probably seperate and collect again at the bottom. Now add more water and keep adding water, over a short time I theorize that you will end up with full jar of water and no fuel present. Now if you keep adding water it will over flow the jar, which is what I am thinking Bum has been suggesting was the issue with Pops carb that ended up leaking water out of the overflow tube up on the frame that made it look like the frame was leaking coolant LOL.. If you are wondering if it would be possible for water to leak into the bowl thru the jets maybe you could take a piece of saran wrap. poke a few small holes in it to simulate the jets, put a rubber band around it so the saran wrap is held above the fuel in the jar, pour water across the saran wrap and see if the water will drip into the gas and if it does, keep watering it and see if it will fill the jar. Now lets see what the real guru's think...

Got it!!! Quick question, I noticed little arrows appear on the sides of the upper picture if you scroll to sides.. See em? Does this mean that someday we will be able to scroll club pics up there or something or am I reading wayyy to much into those arrows?

I ABSOLUTELY love the pic now at the top!! BEAUTIFUL!!!! Tks Boss!! Soldier On!! Puc

So anyone following this,, you have to click on the "THEME" icon at the bottom center of the page, then click on Behemouth,, then the moon will appear LOL... Sorry Boss,, I am wayyyyyyyy slow with this computer stuff.. THANK YOU for the spoon feed!!! Luv ya brother!! Me

BINGO BOSS!!!! That did it!!!! Found the moon!!! I do not care for the dark, it may be different when it is dark outside and I am playing on the puter at nite.. Just IMHO of course.. OH HECK YEAH!! THIS IS COOL!!

Ok,, lets make this simple for us simple minded varmints.. @Freebird,, while you are sitting there reading this post of mine are you telling me that you can scroll down and see that moon? If so, I can not.. If you scroll up do you see the picture of all of the members in a semi circle like shown in your copy/past pic? If so, I do not..

Yep,, I dont always agree with Bum either but on this one I can see his logic. Both these champs are absolute guru's but this time I think Bum's logic fits and/or makes it easier for my back yard brain to follow. In my very limited experience, water is denser than gas so I got to agree with Patch on that point.. I am not so sure why the reluctance to see why the water/coolant would not naturally, without being forced by pressure even, seek its way into the low spot of the bowl, filling it to the point it would flow out of the overflows as Bum has pointed out. Not picking side here,, just saying that Bens point/theory makes sense.. Hopefully @Popsnana19655 is still following this thread cause these winners are on to something IMHO..

Yep @Allenm,, same same,, its all hydraulic lines and system just like a car and what ever works in auto brake bleeding, same rules apply.. The #1 issue with bleeding bike or car brakes, IMHO, is getting the air out.. Even the tinyiest bubble of air in the system is not your friend. That is why, no matter what I am working on when it comes to bleeding hydraulics I always identify the high spot in the system as well as high spots in the low areas where air bubbles can hide and IF possiple, bleed off those spots too, below is a one of my quick vids I produced for a friend that shows the extreme of what I am talking about, thought you might enjoy. My advice is to never over look these hidden spots, whether a bango up on a master or a hidden spot like I show in the vid. @bikerjohn,, I know this will sound wayyy out there probably but I have tried, and did not like what I found when attempting the back bleed method. Consider the garbage that collects at the end of a hydraulic system and then consider where the bleeder is located in the system that you are back bleeding from. Think of where all that garbage is going when you push the fluid back into the master. I had an employee working for me in Maintenance who did this on a large punch press and forced a small piece of metal into a hydraulic control spool that ended up costing the company 2 days of line shut down as the maintenance guys searched for the stuck valve, all due to back flushing. For me, I still use the old method of pump, hold, bleed, close valve,, pump, hold, bleed. I also attach a clear line to the bleeder, zip tie it securely if I have to so it will not pop off, have enough hose so I can drape it over the seat (if doing clutch slave,, just an example - as long as you get the bend in the hose higher than the bleeder your golden) and leave the bleeder finger tight. Now when I bleed I can watch the fluid in the clear hose for air and other gook. When swapping fluid this works great cause you just keep clean fluid in the master and when the clean fluid appears in the hose your done. Put a jar at the end of the clear hose, on the other side of the bike to catch fluid incase the clear line cannot hold all the bleed off. Remind your friend to carefully bleed off bango up on the master to complete bleed. Cover area under master well cause brake fluid is nasty stuff BUT, a small bleed on the bango will yeild the best results.. Yeah,, dont back bleed,,, even one small piece of dirt pushed back up in the system can cause major issues IMHO.. Consider the source here though LOL Puc

Its probably my laptop @Freebird but I dont see no moon nowhere.. Lower right on my machine shows "Mark Site Read".. I also checked all the back to home page and found no moon to play with.. What am I doing wrong,, somebody help the boy lol

Make sure your coolant is good for -20 if visiting Fools house and I would set it for -40 if he is gonna touch anything connected to the bike. There is a reason that VR club members say he has ice in his veins...

and,, any time I have saw gas and water mixed, the water always seemed to end up at the bottom of the mix. So the coolant goes up the intake, fills the venturi, displaces the fuel in the vents/jets/emulsion tube and settles into the bottom of the bowl until it fills the bowl to the brim cause it is not being controlled by the float valve and ends up going out of the overflow tubes..

THANKS PATCH!! NOW I REALLY DO GOTTA PEE!! AND,,, RACKING MY BRAIN,, I STILL DO NOT REMEMBER A TIME WHEN YOU WERE WINNING LOL

Fool can call me anything he wants as long as he don't turn the WWW noozles he had pointed west over to the east and bury my house in 12' of S*&W!!! Thought you were gonna trick me into ending up buried again didnt cha @saddlebum? Aint gonna happen!! @Freebird, another thing many of us full time chatters really appreciate about the new chat is the way we now send our text,, the location of the old send button was way to close to the "end" button which accounted for an abnormal number of Poofers.. A real nice change cause no one really wants to be known as a poofer..

Personally, I really like #2 cause it has a LOT of class IMHO.. On the other hand, if we were voting on one of them I would vote for #3 cause I always root for the under loved, under dog

You have a really good friend cause he sold you one of the FINEST touring bikes to have ever been produced.. You will have a lot of fun going thru that might machine. Take your time and relish every amazingly well built aspect. You are very smart for going thru any motorcycle carefully before you ride it. Murphy's Law dictates this. You have an amazing history with motorcycles! We would love to hear about some of your great adventures!! You have very good eyes for someone riding since 1964. Those punch marks may mean the stator was updated. He must of pulled a trailer with his MK1 Venture at one time. This is no surprise, MK1's are amazingly torquey! You should put the trailer hitch in the clubs parts for sale section where these lop eared varmints will find it and buy it. You should move over near Marcarl's cause as soon as this Covid stuff is over he is going to cook hamburgers for all of us!!

Hi @Joseph Zegura and WELCOME to VR! I always like to give the guru's a few days to bite and if they dont,, BAM,, I grab the lure and run LOL. I have never owned or worked on an RSV like yours but have fired a few shots on the earlier model Ventures which do share some similarities (both V-4, shaft drive). None of my MK1's had an oil pressure monitoring system in them, instead, Mom Yam chose to use a float switch in the bottom of the crankcase to monitor actual oil content/level within the oil pan that the oil pump sumps from. It has never been unusual for that switch/float device to have issues - I have noticed this especially on my bikes when I got over 200k or 250k miles on them. As a matter of fact, I have actually used this switch and its reactionary report on my bikes CMOS as a gauge for when I needed to add oil on a 2 month long, cross county trip.. I would do the "oil check" simply but wacking the throttle hard on take off, maybe even lifting the front a little which my wife (TIP) never really appreciated but the kids always did, and gazing down to see whether or not the "oil light" was flashing.. If the oil contents were down to the bottom of the oil check window, about a quart down, the light would flicker and even stay on for a while. So,, why do I explain all this? Because it would not surprise me to find out that your bike, as my older models, DOES NOT have an actual oil pressure monitor that is causing your engine light to flicker but has the same type of setup as my MK1's did, basically maybe wired to an idiot light on the dash instead of a CMOS monitor like on my older version. Quite frankly, knowing Yamaha, it would not even surprise me at all to find out that the oil level monitoring float switch for my 1983 would actually interchange with your 2009. If what I am saying is correct, I highly doubt that the engine light flicker you mention has any significance concerning engine life as long as you know your oil level is full? I actually had an 83 that I ran well over 100k miles with the oil light permanently on cause I was to lazy to fix the switch,, was wayyy more into riding them than working em. Maybe I am right in all this,, maybe I am wrong.. Hopefully this post will stir the bike repair Guru's in the club enough to cause them to verify one way or the other.. Puc