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Anybody tried these Stainless Steel fastners?


WilCruise

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Saw these on e-bay. The guy has sets for many bikes and has misc assortments and individuals as well. I'm tempted, but wonder if the stainless is strong enough that they won't have a problem being torqued. Stainless is typically a bit softer than regular steel isn't it?

 

Anyone tried them?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150111682796&sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1

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My personal experience seems to indicate differently. I've had the heads of stainless fasteners twist off in the same application that steel doesn't. Perhaps it's a question of grades? If so what should I be looking for as an indication of strength?

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It depends on what you are looking for. If you desire appearance then you might go for it. If you are looking to get rid of the corrosion in the aluminum housing it makes very little differance. For the corrosion just use the copper based antiseize. Standard antiseize is caustic on aluminum. For what it is worth, I wouldn't use them.

KURT

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It depends on what you are looking for. If you desire appearance then you might go for it. If you are looking to get rid of the corrosion in the aluminum housing it makes very little differance. For the corrosion just use the copper based antiseize. Standard antiseize is caustic on aluminum. For what it is worth, I wouldn't use them.

KURT

 

I wouldn't use them either, but if you are, silicone lube will form a barrier between the aluminum and stainless and stop galvanic corrosion.

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Any stainless steel with enough nickel to not rust (300 series) is much softer than carbon steel. I worked 20 years building food processing machinery and have lots of experience in this area. It is a VERY COMMON misbeleif that stainless is strong.... it's not. It gummy and difficult to machine compared with carbon steel, that's all.

For motorcycles, it's a good choice for screws attaching plastic body panels that have to come off frequently, the heads won't rust. The down side is the threads are easily *****ed up and will mess up weld nuts and clip nuts in the fairing. Stainless is a poor choice for any structural joint. If you over torque them (easy to do, they take LESS than carbon steel) they can fail .

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Any stainless steel with enough nickel to not rust (300 series) is much softer than carbon steel. I worked 20 years building food processing machinery and have lots of experience in this area. It is a VERY COMMON misbeleif that stainless is strong.... it's not. It gummy and difficult to machine compared with carbon steel, that's all.

For motorcycles, it's a good choice for screws attaching plastic body panels that have to come off frequently, the heads won't rust. The down side is the threads are easily *****ed up and will mess up weld nuts and clip nuts in the fairing. Stainless is a poor choice for any structural joint. If you over torque them (easy to do, they take LESS than carbon steel) they can fail .

 

I donno, I've been playing with Stainless and boats for a very long time, and taking a hacksaw or drilling into stainless will cause you to work up a sweat. Perhaps it is softer on the nobility scale than high carbon stainless, but I think you'll find Yamaha doesn't use high carbon bolts in their motorcycles because of it's being brittle and rusting at the drop of a hat. I think you'll find that they use a hardware grade that's below stainless in composition, and closer to aluminum on the scale. Stainless in the 304 to marine grade 316 or 316L will cause galvanic corrosion if left in contact with aluminum over an extended period of time and untreated. I treat all stainless hardware with silicon whether it's in a short or long term application... My 2¢....

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