mbrood Posted June 14, 2008 Share #1 Posted June 14, 2008 (edited) I was checking the general tech section... and saw a rather routine sounding "trick" for we height challenged riders... lower the front forks by 1"... but it was adressed to the 2nd gen... They simply loosen the triple tree clamps (after removing tons of stuff to get there) and slide the fork tubes up and tighten her back down. Anybody done this on a 1st gen? Clearance issues? I sure hope it's that easy... it would be a wonderful help to my bike leaning SO far over on the side stand after upgrading to progressive front springs! And yeah, I'm a little low at the inseam. Edited June 14, 2008 by mbrood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket Posted June 15, 2008 Share #2 Posted June 15, 2008 I was checking the general tech section... and saw a rather routine sounding "trick" for we height challenged riders... lower the front forks by 1"... but it was adressed to the 2nd gen... They simply loosen the triple tree clamps (after removing tons of stuff to get there) and slide the fork tubes up and tighten her back down. Anybody done this on a 1st gen? Clearance issues? I sure hope it's that easy... it would be a wonderful help to my bike leaning SO far over on the side stand after upgrading to progressive front springs! And yeah, I'm a little low at the inseam. The trick is the snap ring & air suspension collars, unless you don't want to use the air system. For a 1st gen, the best way would be a new set of aftermarket fork tubes, made 1" (or so) shorter than stock & leave the spring spacers out. The company that can make these, is referred as Forking by Frank, great service too, will build over length or shorter if requested. The only hangup with them is payment options, as they seem to prefer Postal money orders, from Canada. http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/ The other option is to leave the spacer out on the set of progressive springs, with the existing tubes. But that still leaves the slight possibility of bottoming out, with a very hard compression of the front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted June 15, 2008 Share #3 Posted June 15, 2008 Could you drop them below the ring and then put the rings back on? Just a question/thought. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hipshot Posted June 15, 2008 Share #4 Posted June 15, 2008 i went through this "first gen idea", a while back. unless i am DEAD wrong, there is no way to slide the forks UP, through the tree. at least I couldn't see a way to do it, and i had the whole front end "naked", so that i could see everything. just jt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutty Posted June 15, 2008 Share #5 Posted June 15, 2008 Race Tech makes 3 kits depending on your weight, will lower 1-2 inches. Check with a Parts Unlimited dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro_rollie Posted August 11, 2016 Share #6 Posted August 11, 2016 Okay, here we go... I tried sliding the forks up on my '09 RSV and they will NOT slide. I bounced a rubber hammer on one just to make sure it would move and it did, but I'm at a loss as to how to get it to go the other direction. I tried bouncing on the floorboards, as one guy suggested and it only served to further push them down. They will rotate, I know they're not frozen. Does anyone have a suggestion to get them to come up? Sure would appreciate it... Thanks so much...Retro_Rollie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBill1 Posted August 11, 2016 Share #7 Posted August 11, 2016 If you haven't removed the front wheel remove it they are in a bind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro_rollie Posted August 11, 2016 Share #8 Posted August 11, 2016 Alrighty then, thanks WildBill1... Got more time than money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted August 11, 2016 Share #9 Posted August 11, 2016 Make sure the clamps on the triple tree are loose too! Try taking the bolts completely out and carefully pry them open a little as well. Yup, trying to move both of them up together with the wheel still attached is NOT the way to go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro_rollie Posted August 11, 2016 Share #10 Posted August 11, 2016 Yes, I did, bongobobny...pulling the front wheel did the trick, though. I got 'em pulled up one inch and am in the process of putting it all back together now. Many thanks to WildBill1 for that valuable piece of information !!! I'd reached the end of my limitation, sure do appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and expertise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBill1 Posted August 11, 2016 Share #11 Posted August 11, 2016 Retro Rollie, your welcome just remember too find or locate those s/s dust covers you removed and replace them before everything is button-up. They are easy to over look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro_rollie Posted August 12, 2016 Share #12 Posted August 12, 2016 Alrighty then...a good report to pass on !!! Again, thanks to WildBill1...I got my front forks lowered 1". I did mark the fork tubes with a black marker, BUT...I don't know why, the marks just didn't stay. Good thing I'd also measured the tubes from the clamp to the top of said tubes. It measured 8" on mine. So I worked 'em up to 9" and locked 'em down. Wild Bill was right...the forks were in a bind with the front wheel on. As soon as I removed it...big, huge difference. I'd completely removed the inner fairing...had probably a couple dozen wire connections to reconnect...but I took my time and...EVERYTHING WORKED !!! After I got the outer fairing and windshield on, took it for a short ride. I LOVED IT....I'm not real short, have a 32" inseam. I could flatfoot the scoot before, but didn't have very much bend in my legs. Now when I stop, it's noticeably different. I have more bend in my legs...before, if I'd put my foot in a bit of a depression, I'd be sticking my toes out and if the bike leaned a little, I didn't have much leverage to use. Now I do. Riding it was good, although I didn't go far, about 10 mi. But it was good and I'm not changing it back. Only thing I might do now is to modify the seat and make it slightly more narrow where my inner thighs are. One thing I didn't see in other people's comments is marking the handlebars. I put mine back on, sat on the scoot and tightened them down. When I took my short ride, my mirrors were looking up into the sky. I guess I didn't quite get them back where they were. It's an easy adjustment, but might be good to mark the bars; that way you can put 'em back or make an adjustment, if necessary. I rode in the city where I live, only got up to about 45 mph and sometimes very slow. Didn't notice anything negative in the handling. Actually it gave my more confidence, especially when I pulled up to stop. Because my legs weren't extended to flatfoot the bike, I felt a lot more at ease, having the leverage I hadn't had before. It took a LOT MORE than the reported 'two hour job'...but it was most definitely worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted August 12, 2016 Share #13 Posted August 12, 2016 I moved mine up on my 83 about a half inch. I had replaced my springs with Progressives and it raised the bike some, even without any spring preload. As part of going to MKII forks, I plugged the air hose holes, removed the air hose sleeves and moved the forks up about a half inch. I moved the forks up until they about hit the plastic grills mounted on each side of the bars. You might be able to move the fork tubes up more if you wanted to work on the area beside the triple tree. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted August 12, 2016 Share #14 Posted August 12, 2016 As far as the seat, member Rick Butler does this and does an excellent job!! A lot of us have the "Butler Butt Mod" done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro_rollie Posted August 13, 2016 Share #15 Posted August 13, 2016 I just got done modifying the seat. Undid the staples along the front half, peeled it back, measured and marked the top layer of foam and cut it with a scissors. Didn't feel like enough, so I took a little more off each side toward the front. Feels better now. Went to experience the power of the Home Depot, got some #6 , 1/2" pan head sheet metal screws and some #8 finishing washers. I didn't think the #6 washers were wide enough. I'll button it back up tomorrow. I've done this before, may have been on my old '96 Royal Star. Works good. I'm looking forward to taking it for a longer ride, probably Sunday afternoon. I already like the result of lowering the forks 1", I'm thinking the seat mod is going to be extra added good stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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