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Can I use these instuctions for a first gen carb sync?


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GW, start on the left side, hook your tubes up 1-4. 1 is left rear, 2 is left front, 3 is right rear, 4 is right front. Hook them into the ports right under the carbs on the intake boots. Balance 1 & 2 first, with the straight slotted screw directly above the cross bar (single screw) where the drain tubes come out. Then go to the right side and set the balance between 3 & 4 with the screw on the left (Screw "B"). After this, set the balance between # 2 & 4 by adjusting the screw on the right (Screw "C"). You probably will have to reset the idle by adjusting the thumb screw which is located under the cross bar on the left side (screw is vertical, right behind and underneath the bracket) down to 1000 rpm.

 

Screws B & C are on the right side, Screw "A" and idle screw is on the left. You may have to do this a couple times as you adjust your idle speed.

 

Manual also states that valve adjustment should be done before doing this procedure, but it certainly wouldn't hurt!!!!

 

Good luck,

 

Dan

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Thanks Dano, that makes the instructions in the first gen tech library easier for me to understand. It is all starting to make sense now.

 

No problem GW, that's why I've got all this useless information in my head. Anything I can help you with, don't hesitate to ask.

 

Dan

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Rick,

 

Synching a 1st gen is alot easier than what we have to do on our 2nd gens. I've attached a page out of the service manual that shows a pretty good picture and all of the adjustment screws are the same type of sloted screw head.

 

The (A) screw is on the left side of the engine and it adjusts cylinder 1 to cylinder 2

The (B) screw on the other side adjusts cylinder 3 to cylinder 4

The © screw adjusts the right side carbs to the left side carbs

 

And speaking of a service manual, do you need either the 1st gen and/or 2nd gen manuals. I have both if you want to borrow them for your maintenance day. However the 1st gen is for the 1300. I sold my 1200 manual years ago.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

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Thank you for the additional clarity Rick.

 

I would like to hook up with you to get those manuals. Seeing it in print has its benefits over the pdf. Although, I am glad to have a copy of the pdf.

 

And, it will help keep the greasy fingers of my keyboards! LOL

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This is becoming a pain in my backside. 1&2 already synced, 3&4 just slightly off. Attempt to sync all four and it wont even out. Then the cylinders go out of sync, sync those and then all four are off. That large screw for the idle is almost usless, can't keep it at 1000, it drops to 600 or jumps to 1600, holding it a 1000 needs another hand.

 

When I had them close, I get small popping in the exhaust where I did not have it before. I think 3&4 where holding the idle to begin with.

 

Guess I will let her cool down, fan is on and I am pouring with sweat. Then I will beat on it some more to see what I can get out of it.

 

Talk at y'all later!

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This is becoming a pain in my backside. 1&2 already synced, 3&4 just slightly off. Attempt to sync all four and it wont even out. Then the cylinders go out of sync, sync those and then all four are off. That large screw for the idle is almost usless, can't keep it at 1000, it drops to 600 or jumps to 1600, holding it a 1000 needs another hand.

 

When I had them close, I get small popping in the exhaust where I did not have it before. I think 3&4 where holding the idle to begin with.

 

Guess I will let her cool down, fan is on and I am pouring with sweat. Then I will beat on it some more to see what I can get out of it.

 

Talk at y'all later!

 

 

this is almost comical!

YOU trying to make me believe, you broke an HONEST SWEAT!!!!!!!

 

ain't as simple as some folks lead you to believe, is it , brother?

just jt:stirthepot::stirthepot:

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I only have a tiny buzz, ya think I should go for more of one? The XBOX shooter games go much smoother when I have more of a buzz. COD4 and Halo3 is easier with more of one. Things are much clearer with a buzz, LOL. is it just me?

 

ok , brother.

do what i tell ya!

 

 

 

 

in the morning, wake up, get your caffeine, go out to the brownie, and slowly and methodically, do it all over again.

i would start out by syncing them @ 2000, rpm,s.

then gradually, re sync them in lower rpm increments, until you are happy with the results.

if i can help, you have my cell #.

just jt

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GW, you should check for Vacuum Leaks first. Get a Carb Cleaner, Brake Cleaner, Starter Fluid or something similiar and spray it carefully around the Carbs and Intakes with the Motor on Idle. If the Idle raises, you found the Culprit.

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Well, I got it about as close as i am gonna get. Yes, got the coffee in me. I did spray around the carb boots, no change. I sprayed the four hoses where they connect to the YICS and after about 4 seconds, the rpms started to increase about 300 (slowly). Kinda hard to spray one at a time. So, I guess now I need to figure out how I am gonna do this. Got some studying to do.

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Well, i dunno if I soaked them enough that they are holding steady now and close enough for what I can accept. I do notice at about 900 rpm that it is at about 18 on the guages and when I spray the third hose on the yics chamber, all guages go to about 1200 rpm and 22 on the guages.

 

Following the inner two hoses down the the cylinders, that is a aweful tight fit. Dunno how I get them off, let alone get them back on. I guess replacing the hoses is best done with the carbs out of the bike.

 

So, I guess one of my next ptojects is to pull the carbs, hope I can get someone local to go through the carbs with me, replace those hoses while I am there and reseal that long oblong thing in the middle of the cylinders. I have been to the oblong thing not too long ago, cleared up most of that leak there but not quite all of it, still have a really small leak there.

 

Dunno when i will get to it, prolly not too soon. Sync looks good enough right now. Done for now.

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Well, i dunno if I soaked them enough that they are holding steady now and close enough for what I can accept. I do notice at about 900 rpm that it is at about 18 on the guages and when I spray the third hose on the yics chamber, all guages go to about 1200 rpm and 22 on the guages.

 

Following the inner two hoses down the the cylinders, that is a aweful tight fit. Dunno how I get them off, let alone get them back on. I guess replacing the hoses is best done with the carbs out of the bike.

 

So, I guess one of my next ptojects is to pull the carbs, hope I can get someone local to go through the carbs with me, replace those hoses while I am there and reseal that long oblong thing in the middle of the cylinders. I have been to the oblong thing not too long ago, cleared up most of that leak there but not quite all of it, still have a really small leak there.

 

Dunno when i will get to it, prolly not too soon. Sync looks good enough right now. Done for now.

 

 

"high fives" at ya brother!

i knew the coffee would do the trick!

now go in and be nice to the misses, and hug them young-uns!

lol

just jt

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