oil and filter

[nowindinmyhair]

The manual suggests 20W40 or 10W30. I have seen the debate re: synthetic vs. dino and I think I will go with dino. Any suggestions on the weight ?

 

Also, does anyone know if I can still get a filter from Yamaha ? Is this a stock item (because it is the same as more recent bikes use) or will I have to order the filter in advance ??

 

What about the final gear ? 80W90 hypoid gear oil is recommended in the manual. Looks like I need a special tool to dip down and measure the level. Don't have the tool. Where should the level be ?

 

As usual, thanks guys.

[cliffno350]

there is a site window low and forward of the oil fill no tool to dip in and check level the window has 2 marks beside it one for low and one for full the bike needs to be on center stand to check however, advance here carriers a fram oil filter for our bikes and a lot of people use a rotella t 15w40, I use 20w50 in summer and 10w40 in winter and a dino oil, synthetics sometimes "create" oil leaks. just my 2 cents some may disagree but it works for me.

[pegscraper]

The 10W30 is too light for hot weather. Shell Rotella T 15W40 is really nice oil. Just make sure whatever you used doesn't have "energy conserving" on it.

 

I wouldn't use Y's filters. Too expensive, and junk besides. Here's a link to a list of oil filters. Our bike is group 5 way down at the bottom. The Supertech ST7317 from Mallwart is as good as anything.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=523

 

For rear gear oil level, just make sure it is up in the threads of the plug and you'll have plenty.

[flb_78]

Im assuming that your oil filter is a cartridge type filter and not a spin-on filter. If it is the cartridge type, then the fram ch6002 is fine. I used the same filter in my XJ1100. I personally use 15w40 Diesel oil in bikes now. It's works fine, is cheap, and can be found anywhere. Right now I have Chevron Delo 400 15w40 in it. This weekend I'll be changing the oil and will be using John Deere Plus 50 15W40. (cause I can get it from work for FREE!!)

[nowindinmyhair]

OK thanks. I'll go to Walmart to look for the Supertech ST317 before I take the old one off.

 

For the final gear, sounds like I need to do the same I do for the outboard motors: fill from the bottom till it spills out the plug and I'm good.

 

The oil in the sight glass is pretty dark so I don't know how long it's been since the last oil change. Since the filters are so cheape, I think I'll buy enough oil and filters to do 2 to 3 quick changes after about 100 km or so. I had a mechanic tell me that the best thing you can do for an engine is change the oil regularly. It should never get real dark. If it is, it may be a sign of a neglected engine which means there could be an accumulation of crud that needs to cleaned out.

[nowindinmyhair]

FLB ...

 

I guess you were typing your post while I was typing mine. Should I remove the old filter first ? Can there be more than one type of filter on these old bikes. Mine is an '84 Venture.

[flb_78]

Yep. Yamaha changed the filter design. If it's the cartridge type filter, it will be on the front of the engine under and aluminum cover held down with a 10 or 12 millimeter bolt. I'm sure that 84 used a cartridge filter and not a screw on.

 

yep. a little research shows me that the 83, 84, and 85 uses the CH6002.

 

You can find it any almost any parts house or wal-mart.

[bongobobny]

Yup. Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 here, cheap and works great!! Usually buy the gallon from Auto Zone. Because of the "Wet" clutch you want to avoid friction inhibitors like the plague. Your clutch works on "friction."

 

Yah, the dealers want too much for the stock Yama filters. Good old Wally World should have what you need...

[jdross440]

I'm using the Rotella-T diesel synthetic. The engine idles and runs much quieter. The oil stays clean longer (looks almost new at oil changes). I have 2 Dodge Cummins trucks and use the same oil and the place that does my oil analysis for them has me going 11,500 miles between changes and the oil analysis shows it's working real well after this many miles.

[jrcain32]

Does anyone use Amsoil?

[Neil86]

.....For the final gear, sounds like I need to do the same I do for the outboard motors: fill from the bottom till it spills out the plug and I'm good.

 

No, on an 83-85 Venture the rear gear case fill plug sits flat...use an allen wrench to remove (it may still have a black plastic cap covering the hex hole that pops off....most are lost).

The 83-85 Venture came with a plastic dipstick in the toolkit ( I had a new 83)....and because the rear end was common to the XS-11, the dipstick was common and had two ends....one for the separate middle gear case on the XS-11 (the Venture uses engine oil, no separate middle gear sump) and one for the rear end. Here are the measurements from the XS11.com site

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=72

You want to use the end of the stick marked "rear".......the T of the stick sits on the sides of the fill plug hole.

[nowindinmyhair]

Thanks Neil

 

Guess I'll pop into my Yamaha dealer to see if he has the "Tee". Don't want to overfill and create pressure.

 

Ben

[Rocket]

Thanks Neil

 

Guess I'll pop into my Yamaha dealer to see if he has the "Tee". Don't want to overfill and create pressure.

 

Ben

 

You need to buy the entire OEM tool kit to get the gauge (about $180). Fill to bottom of threads on filler plug opening (with bike on centerstand) & you are good. Or you can do a measured pour 300 ML.

[Neil86]

well part number for dipstick might still be good...

Part number

2H7-2815A-00-00 (Gauge, oil level)

[Poledar]

Oil is a personal thing these days. Some use cheap and change it often, while others buy expensive and change it less often. My personal choice for oil is Spectro Golden 4 20/50 in hot weather and 20/40 in cooler. The reasoning here is from Gen 1's early years when there was a very noticeable "clunk" when you shifted and occasionally some drag during shifts. The Spectro is a blend of petro and syn and seems to hold up well to serving as a motor oil as well as transmission fluid. Their shear factors smoothed out the shifting and worked well....for me. That choice is up to you. For me, good oil is the cheapest investment in keeping an engine tightly together and running for the long run. I used Yamaha filters in both of my 2 first Gen 1s, but now have some EMGO I am going to try. Model 10-28500. They work on all Gen 1's, XS1100's, Maxims, XS series. I usually try to change every 1500-2000 miles. Go with whatever makes the most sense to you.

 

Poledar:080402gudl_prv:

[Rocket]

well part number for dipstick might still be good...

Part number

2H7-2815A-00-00 (Gauge, oil level)

 

Ok, never seen it listed seperately, was previously told by dealers that to get it, I needed to get the entire kit. Maybe a difference, in the year to year parts diagrams, like the upper fork tube bushings????

[nowindinmyhair]

I'll check it out this weekend and post the results.

[Neil86]

The part number was from the XS11 site.....I just "ran" it at mrcycles.com and it comes up with a price of $5.68 so I would think its still available.

[stardbog]

amsoil 10-40 all year round

[nowindinmyhair]

My Yamaha dealer didn't have the oil guage "Tee" but ordered one in: $2.48.

 

I went with the Rotella 15W40. Was surprised to see it was actually diesel oil but the other 15W40 I found was aslo diesel oil. I put in a Fram CH6002. Didn't go out for much of ride so can't really report back on much except that the transmission seemed to shift a little stiffer.