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Just a Quick Question Tci


snyper316

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OK so as i said in my welcome post im trying to chase down a gremlin.. the biggest problem i have had with this bike is the electrical issues I seen somewhere to try cutting the Black/White wire to the TCI unit but when i tested all connections to TCI They all tested good. Now the question is does this mean my TCI unit is toast... I don't have the liberty to borrow a TCI unit but the local shop says if he has one he will sell it to me for 75 which is a good price since well they dont make them no more and when they did they want the same amount as I paid for this bike... I have found after market here and curious if anyone has used them http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1984-1985-1989-Yamaha-XVZ12-Venture-1200-CDI-Ignitor. I emailed this company and was informed they come with 3 yr warranty but this is gonna be a winter project if you even call the weather in sw missouri it seems as if we go to summer to winter and back... so any imput of what i can test on the TCI box to check to see if it is good or bad?

Edited by snyper316
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Snyp,, I have an xtra fuel pump and TCI I would be willing to part with BUT - the pumps on the MK1's very rarely fail, I have only had one go bad in the process of wearing 5 of these 83's over the past 30 years of riding them (knock on wood). The one that did go bad I momentarily repaired it at road side by removing the rear cover (notice the plastic cover on rear - look closely and you will see a smear of filler that covers the screw that holds the cover on) and cleaning the contact points inside the cover.. You can also replace just the points inside the pump and be good to go if its not a failed internal solenoid or something.

Also,, concerning the TCI.. Usually when a TCI fails it will be noticable by the Tach acting up - you notice any faulty movement in the tach when the scoot is running? Is this a bike you ought really cheap and have not ridden yet?

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i was concerned because the clicking is weak on the fuel pump..... it used to go to town when i turned the key on... as for the tach yes it had been like i would be runing on the interstate at 3500 rpm and it would shoot up and also some times when i would rev a little bit when starting it and the tach would shoot up past 8s like it would bounce up there then the other day before it just quit like when i went to the store down the street it had been running fine went back out and tried to start and it absoluletly refuse to start everytime i have called the shop here they have told me well sounds like you need new fuel pump and wouldnt tell me where i could get the points for inside it they also told me it woulndt come apart... sorry for bad grammer but splitting headache sucks another thing i noticed before it quit that the pick up coil plug was a little warm and wires were kinda hot.... but im seriously thinking the TCI kicked the bucket... as for fuel pump as long as the bike is running it pumps fuel damn good checked by running it with the line running into gas can... and turned it off and turned the key on it just seemed the initial start up of the fuel pump seemed a little week which i have thought all along points in it and im thinking i seen a forum somewhere about replacing the points in the fuel pump.. which i havent got into that yet i figured as long it is down im gonna work on the little things.. i picked this bike up last year for 1350... and put it in the shop to get the starter rebuilt... and then took carbs off and had them redo them because some reason they told me i couldnt get the parts i needed when i rebuilt it but yet when they worked on it managed to get the exact parts new..... needless to say im doing my own work from now on.... i found another bike on ebay it has everything cpt the TCI and he isnt too sure of the motor cause guy b4 him left it setting out with carbs off and tarp over it and it got water in the engine but he gave me hell of a deal on it just cant afford it at the moment... like i said this is gonna be a winter project which i dont mind...

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As the bowls fill up the pump will run a lot slower at the last part of the filling.. This is just the pump building pressure against float needle valve.. If you want to test it just open one of your carb drains, put a catch pan under the drain hose - turn on the key and cycle the pump with your kill switch. It should pump with a nice fast clicking and then when you close the drain the pump will slowly go down to nothing after the carb fills.. Also, remember that the fuel pump will not continue running when you turn on the key/turn on the kill switch - it only cycles for a short time unless you start the bike - turn the key on with the kill switch in the off position - turn the kill switch on and the pump will cycle and stop - turn the kill switch back off and on again and it will go thru another cycle.

You should clean up all the connections at the TCI really really well - many times TCI problems are cured just by cleaning connections. If the TCI is still acting up - you can "cook it" in an oven to try and dry it out some,, I never had to do this (knock on wood again) but have read of lots of success stories on here from folks who have.. Not sure on cooking temps but last time I guessed 120 degrees and, as I recall one of our guru's (maybe @bongobobny , @Flyinfool , @Condor ) said it as closer to 250 degrees for like an hour or something.. Lets see if any of those guys jump in here and set me straight,,,,, again..

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You should clean up all the connections at the TCI really really well - many times TCI problems are cured just by cleaning connections. If the TCI is still acting up - you can "cook it" in an oven to try and dry it out some,, I never had to do this (knock on wood again) but have read of lots of success stories on here from folks who have.. Not sure on cooking temps but last time I guessed 120 degrees and, as I recall one of our guru's (maybe @bongobobny , @Flyinfool , @Condor ) said it as closer to 250 degrees for like an hour or something.. Lets see if any of those guys jump in here and set me straight,,,,, again..

 

The Condor can't cook...

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So I found the post and it said bake at 225 for an hour or so.... put the unit back on the bike and now no spark from number 4 but she is coughing but just not spinning over.... and i know this bike will run on 3 cylinders cause it did when i first got it due to all the corrosion on spark plug wires which i would love to just replace.... but oddly enuff tho when i test the plug from one of donb post it said i should be getting 2.7 well before i baked the unit i got a 3.3 or so now its giving me a reading of 4.7 to 4.5 on the coil packs strange but the other plug measure fine i also cleaned the plugs up on the unit....just kind of odd i thought since everything tested within the range now its a little high... I feel as if I have just entered the twilight zone on this one...:confused07:

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Wow well i will see around the first of the month for sure but how would i pay etc... could definatly use spare parts now to get that other bike for the 500.... might pull the wiring harnesses off that bike... granted this guy still has it... and im thinking my fuel pump is fine.. Because before i got carbs rebuilt it would always pressurize after sitting for an hour or so but now its only in the morning.... but i believe thats a fair deal for all so if the fuel pump does kick it.. I have a spare...

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OK so question here im just bored watching Between well not bored watching it but anyways i decided to pull the two wire i wasnt getting fire from well i disambeled the wire and there is continuity in the actual wire itself which tested fine but as for the caps i cant get a continuity test on them it just keeps saying one and dont go to digits so it possible my caps are bad is there anything i can do to possibly fix them? regardless possible fix for this seems like it be cheap granted my tci board actually got cooked well enuff to fix that problem....

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