Wrench Posted September 6, 2015 Share #1 Posted September 6, 2015 I had an issue yesterday with the battery/charging on my '99 again. I replaced the battery back in April due to a bad cell, under warranty from Batteries Plus. Yesterday I rode about 300 miles total, with he first 200 being uneventful. I made what was going to be my last stop before hitting the interstate to come home, turned the bike off,, it would not even click the solenoid it was so dead. Finally had a guy give me a jump,, which took several minutes to get enough charge in the battery to start it. Got home and took the battery out of the bike,, at that point it was showing 9.2 volts. I put it on charge overnight, this morning it was showing 12.8 volts. I took it to Batt Plus,, they load tested it with every tester they had and it tested good. I came home and tore into the cables and wiring,, checking/cleaning ALL the connections I could find, and did not find anything loose or corroded. One thing I did notice on the way home last night was the O/D light would "flicker" as I was hauling down the road. It didn't have a definite "pattern" to it,, more like a "loose connection" flicker. After putting it all back together it now shows 13.8-9 volts at the battery terminals when running,, it drops to about 11.6-8 under starting load. Any help would be appreciated,,, THANKS!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muffinman Posted September 7, 2015 Share #2 Posted September 7, 2015 The voltages you say it's putting out while running are good I would suspect the battery having a loose plate if all the connections are clean an tight. It's not unheard of for.a plate to make and break it's connection with movement u vibration Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted September 7, 2015 Yes, that's what I was thinking too, but we bounced the battery hard, turned it every way and it tested good. The only other thing I can think was that there was a loose connection that wasn't obvious and I fixed it when I went over the wiring. Just gonna keep an eye on it but it was fine when I rode it yesterday afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickardracing Posted September 8, 2015 Share #4 Posted September 8, 2015 First off, do not jump the battery. All you gotta do is have somebody push the bike with you on it and pop the clutch while in 1st gear. You should only need to go about 10 feet. I had the same issue. Found out it was the regulator/rectifier. Tested the stator and it put out plenty of volts, tested the regular/rectifier and the circuit was closed when it was supposed to be open. What does that mean? Means the juice stops there and does not go to the battery so all of your accessories, lights, etc are running off of the battery. You need to check out the entire charging system. I would bet if you just replace the battery again, you will end up in the same boat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted September 8, 2015 Well,, I haven't had any luck with the roll start thing, always seems to happen on level ground. After I went thru all the wiring the O/D light does not flicker or dim now as it was doing Sat afternoon. I have been over all the wiring I can get to,, I am going to pull the outer fairing this afternoon when I get back in and check everything in there. The battery tested good and hot with all 4 of the testers that Batteries Plus had,, he even bounced it on the counter just to be sure there wasn't a "loose" plate. I'm convinced there was a loose/bad connection somewhere that I fixed but didn't actually see. I really cleaned the ground at the engine block, as it grounds to aluminum, but did not see any evidence of corrosion or a bad connection there either. Thanks guys for all your help and guidance, I'll post the issue if I find it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted September 8, 2015 Share #6 Posted September 8, 2015 A good charging system has volts 13.5 to 14.5dc when the RPM gets above 1500 What is yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share #7 Posted September 9, 2015 A good charging system has volts 13.5 to 14.5dc when the RPM gets above 1500 What is yours? Mine is at 13.8-14 volts at that rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickardracing Posted September 9, 2015 Share #8 Posted September 9, 2015 I just do not see a flickering light killing a battery that quickly. When I tested my regulator/rectifier it did not let voltage pass. I accidently dropped it when I was putting it back in (I wanted to recheck it with the bike running) and it started working. There are no moving parts inside, all solid state components, but that told me that something inside was starting to go. I think your issues maybe deeper. I hope I am wrong, but I got that fuzzy feeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted September 9, 2015 Share #9 Posted September 9, 2015 The flickering light is more likely a symptom of the real problem. The light did not kill the battery the real problem did. Even if it is just temporary, get a digital voltmeter wired up to the bike so you can see voltage while riding. If it does not stay around 14 volts while riding then you have an issue. What the voltage changes to when it deviates from 14 volts will give us a clue on what the issue may be. It sounds to me like you have the dreaded intermittent electrical problem.The most difficult problem to accurately diagnose. Often it is finally fixed by taking educated guesses at possible causes and changing something at that cause until the problem goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted September 9, 2015 Share #10 Posted September 9, 2015 First off, do not jump the battery. All you gotta do is have somebody push the bike with you on it and pop the clutch while in 1st gear. You should only need to go about 10 feet. I had the same issue. Found out it was the regulator/rectifier. Tested the stator and it put out plenty of volts, tested the regular/rectifier and the circuit was closed when it was supposed to be open. What does that mean? Means the juice stops there and does not go to the battery so all of your accessories, lights, etc are running off of the battery. You need to check out the entire charging system. I would bet if you just replace the battery again, you will end up in the same boat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted September 9, 2015 Share #11 Posted September 9, 2015 You might check the POS Stud at the starter, in case you missed that. Also, Be sure to check, and clean the End of the Neg. Bat cable where it connects to the frame of the bike. Pull out the bolt there and clean it. ( Also, solder the Stud onto the end of that NEG. cable ) ( I would RE- SOLDER, Both Ends, of Both Battery Cable Studs , if they need it or not ) I second the recommendation of tapeing a volt meter to the tank, hooked to the Battery Studs, and watch the voltage as you drive ( digital meter if you have one ) If that voltage is about 14 as you drive, I would suspect your new battery, ??? Most of these bikes will show 14.2 V at driving speed. Did you check the Stud on the starter motor, for a LOOSE 10MM Nut there ??? Clean, and resolder the red cable stud at the starter motor. --- Do NOT, overtorque that nut, the stud will TWIST OFF, inside the starter motor case -- Pull the connector at the Voltage regulator, clean the Pins with contact cleaner. Tug, tug, on all the wires at that plug, ( both sides of it ) make sure all those wires have a good crimp. Also, your Ignition Switch, ON/ Off contacts "" Might "" be starting to go bad, causeing a voltage drop to all components on your bike. As you know this switch is a common failure point on these bikes. Also, Open up your RED, ON/Off Switch, and check the resistance thru that switch, clean it with contact cleaner. Again, that switch can cause a voltage drop to all components if it goes " High Resistance " !! Be sure to check ALL the wireing Cables, around the steering yoke, make sure there is NO Cable Damage in that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted September 9, 2015 Share #12 Posted September 9, 2015 If you have the old style main fuse with the replaceable blades check and make sure the screws which hold the fuse blades are secure. This is the plastic box which is on the red wire coming right off the batt pos. and is right beside the battery. Be careful you dont spill out and loose the spare blades stored in the black half of the cover. I have twice run across this problem on two separate bikes were the screws have backed off allowing an intermitttant connection which caused the battery to go flat while riding for no apparent reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted September 13, 2015 Ok,,, I have checked all the wiring from the battery out to the fairing, all the fuses, all the connectors. With a digital Fluke meter on the battery terminals here are the voltages I get,,, key off - 12.7 volts, key on - 12.5 volts, starting drops it to around 11.1-2 volts, when running at idle it gradually climbs to 13.6 volts, when ran up to rev limiter - 14.2 volts. The ONLY thing I have found is with the driving lights on it will top out at about 13.8 - 14 volts, when I turn them off it reaches 14.2 volts. I am going to get a digital volt meter and plug it into the tender outlet so I can temporarily monitor it while I ride. There must have been a connection that I "fixed", but I did not see any evidence of a bad/loose connection anywhere. First chance I get I'm going to take it to a shop and have the charging system checked. So starting tomorrow morning I'm just gonna ride it like I stole it!!! Thanks to all for the help and suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted September 13, 2015 Share #14 Posted September 13, 2015 All of the voltages you stated are right where they should be. Having a voltmeter on board is great for keeping an eye on things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted September 13, 2015 That's about the only thing I know left to do Jeff, and it's drivin me CRAZY!!! Well,,, "crazier", if that's possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share #16 Posted September 16, 2015 Ok,, here are the voltages taken from a digital voltmeter tied in to my tender port. Key on - 12.8 volts, starting - 11.3 volts, idling - 13.3 volts, 2 lane road speed - 13.6 volts, interstate speed - 13.8 volts, but if I turn the driving lights off it climbs up to 14.2 volts right away. I have not seen the indicator lights on the dash "flicker" as they did the day it first acted up, nor are there any sudden drops seen on the meter. I removed and cleaned all the fuse legs and fuse slots, checked all the connections in the fairing as well as the wiring around the neck where they exit the fairing. I still think that there was a "funky" connection that I "fixed" and just didn't realize it. Oh well,,, just gonna ride it and see what happens from this point on. Thanks for all the tips and help. Ride safe!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted September 17, 2015 Share #17 Posted September 17, 2015 Just keep the voltmeter hooked up for a while to see if you can spot an intermittent issue. You may have very well have fixed the bad connection without noticing it as bad. Been there done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted September 17, 2015 Share #18 Posted September 17, 2015 Well, it sure sounds like an "" Intermittant " open connection. (( Note: that's the worst kind Ha Ha Ha )) There is such a thing as an " intermittent fuse " I know that sounds crazy, but I have had that happen to me two times on Airplanes, over the 40 years that I worked on them. Extremely rare !! The Ignition Switch, ON/OFF contacts, Hmmmm well they have a reputation, for going intermittent, or completely open. You might be looking at a new Ignition Switch. Very common problem, but that would not make the battery go dead. I know you have a near new battery, But----------- I have had batteries fail in less then 2 months, just cause its new???? don't mean it does not have a problem. It might also have an intermittent internal fault, and it might be discharging Internally. Is this a Lead Acid battery ???? Or an AGM dry cell ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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