Gunny Posted July 26, 2015 Share #1 Posted July 26, 2015 (edited) Had the bike for about a month & 1/2 now and I'm really starting like it after putting over a thousand miles on her she's now running much better and now pulls pretty good even in 5th. last weekend I took it on a ride up to northern Wyoming / southern Montana up over Bear tooth pass and Chief Joseph Highway among other fantastic roads and she ran great but boy she drinks a lot of gas when blasting up steep windy canyon roads LOL However one thing it's done all along is at an idle and especially when the brakes are applied the voltage drops A LOT here is a quick video showing what I mean http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq178/VF1100/th_VID_20150725_213055.mp4 Not sure how old the battery is but I did have to and water to it so I'm guessing 1-2 years old but cranks OK and seem to hold a charge but what worries me the most is how much juice the brake light is taking, is this normal or do I have a possible electrical issue in the brake light system? Edited July 27, 2015 by Gunny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted July 26, 2015 Share #2 Posted July 26, 2015 That is pretty normal for a first gen. When you hit the brakes you also turn on those electric anti-dive solenoids. On the front forks 2 electromagnetic coils. Mine will drop about 1.5 volts. Add a marginal battery and it will drop fast. I can tell when my battery needs replaced by that and the hard hot start/slow crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunny Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted July 26, 2015 Thanks good to know Much rather replace a battery than chase down an electrical problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donvito Posted July 26, 2015 Share #4 Posted July 26, 2015 Compared to my 87, your voltage looks low. Although, you can get a more accurate reading with a meter. I disconnected my anti dive solenoids years ago and, with the progressive springs, it rides better. They are easy to unplug, just follow the wires and there are two plugs just under the front fairing. Also, you may want to check your wire connectors, especially, the 3 white wire connector on the upper left just where the left side cover meets the seat. Mine was pretty corroded and my voltage improved after cleaning my connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted July 26, 2015 Share #5 Posted July 26, 2015 What they said, pretty normal for a big drop at idle. As mentioned check the stator wires, that connector has been know to get hot enough to melt. if it did just eliminate it and solder the connections together. Also check the battery connections, and ground connections, clean them even if they look clean already. Using a digital voltmeter check the voltage across the battery. should be 12.6 volts with the bike turned off, and 14 volts over 2000 rpm. The voltage will be less idling with everything turned on, the alternator just is not spinning fast enough to meet the demand at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted July 26, 2015 Share #6 Posted July 26, 2015 That looks like a very weak battery to me. At Idle the stator isn't butting out any amps, and any electrical load will be handled by the battery. A new AGM battery and that will go away. I recommend DEKA... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted July 26, 2015 Share #7 Posted July 26, 2015 Yep, those anti-dives solenoids cause quite a drain at idle. Disconnecting them will help but remember your brake light is a pair of 1157 bulbs back there. Those alone can cause a dip on the voltmeter at idle when you hold the brake on. My '84 didn't have the electric solenoids but still showed the dip on the meter. I had changed every bulb on the bike except the two 1157s in the brakes to LEDs to reduce the load on the system so the brake light dip was about the only change on the meter I showed. As long as the battery is healthy and the charging system is working properly the short time you spend with the brakes on at idle shouldn't cause you any problems. The system should bring the battery back to full once you exceed 2,000 RPMs again. Wait until the cooling fan kicks on in the hot weather. That causes a nice dip on the meter to. A mod to a digital volt meter will help you feel more comfortable with your electrical system. Much more accurate reading than the stock OEM gauge. But I feel you be fine. Just part of the nature of the beast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KISA Posted July 27, 2015 Share #8 Posted July 27, 2015 generator connect, under seat, left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunny Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share #9 Posted July 27, 2015 just installed a new battery seems better but still dims a bit when brakes are applied cleaned as many of the wires and connectors as I could some are tough to get to with out taking the firing apart generator connect, under seat, left. you know I have yet to take the seat off this thing I have looked (not real good) for how to take it off but to no avail guess I need to look in the owners manual and see how if not happy I'll try disconnecting the anti dive solenoids and see if that fixes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KISA Posted July 28, 2015 Share #10 Posted July 28, 2015 It isn't necessary to touch solenoid coils. I replaced contact pieces of the generator. Overdressing of the serviceable accumulator ~ 12.6V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donvito Posted July 28, 2015 Share #11 Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) just installed a new battery seems better but still dims a bit when brakes are applied cleaned as many of the wires and connectors as I could some are tough to get to with out taking the firing apart you know I have yet to take the seat off this thing I have looked (not real good) for how to take it off but to no avail guess I need to look in the owners manual and see how if not happy I'll try disconnecting the anti dive solenoids and see if that fixes There are a lot of connectors behind the headlight, don't have to remove the fairing. Headlight comes out pretty easy. Seat is held on by two bolts. I always take off the top cover first then Just take the lids off the side bags, then 3 screws in the black plastic covers. Remove that and you will see two bolts, I think they're 12 mm, one on each side. Remove them and slide the seat towards the back and it will come off. There's a piece in front of the seat that slides under a part of the frame to secure it so that's why you have to slide it back. There is actually a hole in the black plastic cover to access the seat bolts but I find it easier to remove the covers. When you're messing with the electrical system, it's a good idea to disconnect the battery too. I bought a connector cleaning kit and it works pretty good to clean them without disassembling the plugs. You have to unplug them of course. Here's the one I bought: Made by IPA, it's called a Diamond Grip Terminal Cleaner. http://www.ipatools.com/products/index.php/ipa-8040.html FYI: you can add your model and year beneath your name. Makes it easier for people to know which bike you have without looking up your profile. Edited July 28, 2015 by Donvito correction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted July 28, 2015 Share #12 Posted July 28, 2015 In this entire thread you have never posted what kind of VDC reading your getting off the battery with a multi-meter... at idle, running above 2000rpm, or after sitting over night. Knowing this would give us a really good idea of what's going on.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted July 28, 2015 Share #13 Posted July 28, 2015 1st AGM lasted 10 years it was a WestCo.. and the newest expect at least 8 it's a Yuasa. They have a lot of reserve. and prices vary from $85 at Advance Auto to more than $120. My Yuasa was $100. NO matter who sells you a new one. ALL batteries need an initial CHARGING...even AGMs. My AGM with anti-dive active stays above 12v. Not much but it's above. With progressive springs I have my anti-dive switched off 95% of the time like some others mention the same idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunny Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share #14 Posted July 29, 2015 I like this need to get me a set Diamond Grip Terminal Cleaner. http://www.ipatools.com/products/ind.../ipa-8040.html good point Condor so I just got done checking new battery key off 12.69 key on 12.14 low idle 13.10 idle little choke about 1000 rpm's 13.75 + or - 2 to 3 volts 3000 rpm's 13.90 brake on slow drop to 12.50 + or - 2 to 3 volts so 1.25 volt drop so charging system seems to be working but now I wish I had checked it with the old battery and thanks for the info on the seat removal Donvito I never would have guessed the seat is bolted on all the Hondas I've had either a lock or a lever you had to pull which is what I was looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunny Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted August 9, 2015 so on a related note yesterday the battery light started blinking every now & then and today it came on solid and would not go off so I check the water level in the battery and it was a little low so add some distilled water and all is good but the battery is only 2 weeks old... this is the first bike I've had that had a water level sensor so is this is normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted August 10, 2015 Share #16 Posted August 10, 2015 It is normal for the acid to drop a bit on a new battery as all the air bubbles work there way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utadventure Posted August 10, 2015 Share #17 Posted August 10, 2015 Gunny Let me know if I can help. I live just west of you in Taylorsville. I have carb sync tools etc. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunny Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share #18 Posted August 10, 2015 Yah that makes sense Jeff it wasn't supper low but low enough to make the light come on guess I'm still getting to know her habits and quarks Hay Dave good to know I just may take you up on that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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