joboo Posted February 19, 2015 Share #1 Posted February 19, 2015 Hi Guys, I am installing the Barrett clutch conversion on my 96 Royal Star and would like to know if any of you guys ( SkyDoc) know the bolt torque, I think it must be around 5.8 but don't know the optimum. Decided to do this after changing the slave cylinder and getting slipping. The clutch plates probably only have about 18500 on them but the original single spring is still there. The slippage is happening after about 4 to 5K miles after replacing the slave, cleaning up the master and new fluid so it was really strong when it went back together. I think the most valuable lesson I have learned on this bike in the 20 years I have had it that you shouldn't change pieces. If you change clutch plates or slave for example you should probably change all of the parts in the assembly. Learned that when you pull the carbs change everything! float needles, seats, diaphragms ect cause fixing only the problem leads to another and the cost is minor compared to time and performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted February 19, 2015 Share #2 Posted February 19, 2015 It is very low. Can't remember what but be carefull they snap easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted February 19, 2015 Share #3 Posted February 19, 2015 The proper torque is indeed 5.8 ft/lbs, however that value is usually too low for the common foot/pound torque wrenches to properly register (if at all). Obtain an inch/pound torque wrench and torque the bolts to 69.6 inch/pounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted February 19, 2015 Share #4 Posted February 19, 2015 Surprisingly enough, the HF torque wrenches are actually pretty good. If I was making a living wrenching, would look for better, but for shade tree wrenching, they work great (and are priced right). BTW, you will love the Barnett conversion. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted February 19, 2015 Share #5 Posted February 19, 2015 The proper torque is indeed 5.8 ft/lbs, however that value is usually too low for the common foot/pound torque wrenches to properly register (if at all). Obtain an inch/pound torque wrench and torque the bolts to 69.6 inch/pounds.Agreed though for simplicity I just go 70 inch/lbs. Also snug them up a little at a time lightly by hand in a staggered criss-cross pattern to pull everything down evenly until the bolts bottom out 1st. then go to 20 in/lbs, 50 in/lbs and finally 70 in/lbs following the staggered criss cross pattern. Finally as a safety check just go over them again at 70 in/lbs in a circular pattern to ensure you got them all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joboo Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted February 19, 2015 You guys rock! Will let you know how this works! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joboo Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share #7 Posted February 23, 2015 Ok, Now I need some ideas, The clutch plates are only 18.5K miles, put in the barnett and noticed no difference, still slipping, changed oil from rotella to yamalube and took her out, thought it might need to burn off old oil, barely made it home. I guess the plates could be bad, they looked pretty smooth but it is really hard to tell by looking. Just can't believe they would be bad this soon. I don't really get on it, I just ride pretty normal, the only thing I can think of is that I have been hard on it for PGR rides ( barely crawling in the national cemetery) and parades where we are also barely moving. Any you guys think of anything else short of changing the plate kit again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted February 24, 2015 Share #8 Posted February 24, 2015 Probably they are scorched from the type of riding you describe. Were the metal bands silver or brown looking? Did you replace the clutch disc with the Heavy Duty one?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted February 24, 2015 Share #9 Posted February 24, 2015 Measure the clutch plates. New is 3mm (0.1181 inch) thick worn out is 2.8mm (0.1102 inch) thick That is not much between new and worn out. If the clutch has been slipping for a while that can wear out the clutch pretty quick. Your slow riding in the friction zone is also very hard on the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted February 24, 2015 Share #10 Posted February 24, 2015 Before tearing into clutch again, verify the compensating port in the master cylinder reservoir is clear, its the smaller of the 2 ports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joboo Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share #11 Posted February 24, 2015 Probably they are scorched from the type of riding you describe. Were the metal bands silver or brown looking? Did you replace the clutch disc with the Heavy Duty one?? The bands were normal but I did notice that the friction pads no longer had any raised sections they were smooth...the replacements were done at the shop last time and they were supposed to be oem, I have doubts now as to whether they were actually replaced or they just roughed up the friction pads. BTW that was the LAST time anybody is ever going to do any service but me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joboo Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted February 24, 2015 Before tearing into clutch again, verify the compensating port in the master cylinder reservoir is clear, its the smaller of the 2 ports. Thought about that as it was only a year or so ago I replaced the slave and cleaned up the master. Clutch lever seems to be fine and while the clutch cover was off I actuated the clutch to check for smooth movement and all was good. I also would have thought that after wrenching on the plate that unless it was so completely plugged that it prevented the rod from re-compressing the slave that it would not have started slipping right away again. But only a fool doesn't take all the advice he asked for so I will check it. Speaking of fools, Thanks Flyinfool for the specs I could not find them anywhere and damn, didn't realize they would be so little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joboo Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted March 9, 2015 Thought I would give you guys an update on this clutch thing, Neil86, compensator was squirting fluid with the cover off. Replaced the clutch and put the new Barnett conversion back on, but while doing so noticed it slipping while I was torquing it down. Buttoned it up, drained the master and slave cylinders, laid the bike over at a 45, clutch side down and pulled the crankcase cover on the other side. This way I could easily get to the slave cylinder and not have to drag it through the "hole". Pulled the slave off and tried to move the piston, it barely would move forward but not back. Disassembled the slave and found debris from what appears to be plunger material in the cylinder, guess from when it was assembled at the factory. Cleaned it up, checked smooth operation of piston, put everything back together, refilled and bled (Speed Bleeder). Took it out for a test ride and all I can say is HOLY Sh*T. This thing is awesome! In all of these years do not remember this kind of performance! I guess the piston in the slave was getting stuck higher and higher in the cylinder. I was starting to question my abilities it was affecting things so much like Starts, turning radius, moving at near idle speeds, I was blaming on old age, mine not the bike..lol. Man what a difference, I think I'll keep it for another 21 years or until I need more wheels to stay upright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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