IronMike Posted August 25, 2014 Share #1 Posted August 25, 2014 I want a good vacuum inlet to suck up some deep creep or Carb cleaner. I am still chasing oil out of my Air intake system due to the accidental overfill. And does everyones Oil light, light up on a fast Takeoff? I have already shot the Places where you hook up to Sync the Carbs, Its not that great a place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarges46 Posted August 25, 2014 Share #2 Posted August 25, 2014 Can't help with the vacuum. No mine does not light up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted August 25, 2014 Share #3 Posted August 25, 2014 Only time my oil light comes on is when I turn the ignition on. Other than that, never comes on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share #4 Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) Wonder why mine does light up. If I take off fast it lights until I hit the next gear. like 2nd or 3rd. Bad sensor maybe? OR Full Flow Bypass Oil Filter? Edited August 25, 2014 by IronMike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted August 25, 2014 Share #5 Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) what exactly is the issue you are trying to fix, now you have oil level back to normal. The crankcase vent will allow trace amounts of oil into air plenums in normal operation, and any that goes through the carb is mixed with fuel and burnt in engine...the intake runners should be clean. Edited August 25, 2014 by Neil86 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted August 25, 2014 Share #6 Posted August 25, 2014 If you overfilled with oil, your air collection boxes above your carbs are probably coated pretty heavily. I'll bet that when you park the bike that the drain hoses will drip a little oil if it sits for a while. Best way to get rid of that is to pull the tank, remove the boxes above the carbs and clean/wipe out. These things get coated after a while even if the oil hasn't been overfilled, I land up cleaning these out at least once a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share #7 Posted August 25, 2014 If you overfilled with oil, your air collection boxes above your carbs are probably coated pretty heavily. I'll bet that when you park the bike that the drain hoses will drip a little oil if it sits for a while. Best way to get rid of that is to pull the tank, remove the boxes above the carbs and clean/wipe out. These things get coated after a while even if the oil hasn't been overfilled, I land up cleaning these out at least once a year. Yea I have done this, They were coated. The first issue was Oil Light coming on while riding, mostly during a quick take off, So I figured it was a little low and added some. Then it still comes on so I added more. (All below the indicated line.) Then it shows Over the line awhile later. Delayed effect I guess. Damage already done. Had to clean the Boxes. Yes I did see the drips. What will not go away is the sluggish throttle from stop to about 15MPH is acts like its starving for fuel or Air at that area. AND while cruising in that throttle spot. I guess It could be a TPS I went to test that and its not like the one in the Clymer, Its totally different and looks like a PITA to remove. So I just squirted it and cleaned the contacts. That seems like it stopped the Engine light from coming on. Which is caused by one of four things one being the TPS. It run FINE when you go fast hot rod or get on it. Where it lacks is low end throttle or just cruising. Its not snappy. its sluggish throttle. Until you get past 1/2 throttle then its snappy. Yes clean air filters, Yes new plugs. Yes Seafoamed it until it choked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted August 25, 2014 Share #8 Posted August 25, 2014 Does the bike idle fine at normal rpm (around 1000)...starts okay? Is the bike lowered....one person that did this noticed they were getting the oil alarm more often afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share #9 Posted August 25, 2014 Does the bike idle fine at normal rpm (around 1000)...starts okay? Is the bike lowered....one person that did this noticed they were getting the oil alarm more often afterwards. Ye starts right up, needs a little choke then none on a 65 degree day. idles fine. put it in gear and start to throttle up and it says "Give me a rev or I aint moving....put put put" So ya rev and go and it acts great until you try to cruise in a gear and it acts kind of chokey. not smooth, not snappy throttle sluggish. But only in that first say 15% of throttle. Or right where you would want to cruise down the road in OD. Pipes are a perfect brown color at the ends, spark plugs all checked out changed over to the iridium ones anyways just to see. No difference. Battery charges fine has plenty of juice to run Spark, tank has great gas flow I drain it everytime I take it off, thats been 100 times in three days. Ummmm AIS is still there. Untouched. Anywhere else outside of the first 15% OF THROTLE it runs fine. SO its like you have to hot rod it. You can't just cruise on it. I find myself running 1 gear lower everywhere. The symptom reduces when the motor gets really hot like after you have ridden it an hour. But its still there. I REALLY notice it pulling the trailer. I am about to do something really stupid like take it to a dealer. Where they will charge me too much, say they fixed it but have not and I will be back here but a lot broker. Bike has 22K miles on it. Sync goes pretty easy so I am thinking Valves are ok. I am at whits end here. Its a tiny thing that bugs me a lot. A Fluffy throttle. OR could it be I am switching between the Roadstar and the Venture too much and expecting the torque the Roadstar has out of the Venture? And its nothing? The Roadstar cruises smoothly and I only use about the first 10% of the throttle most of the time. On the Venture the way it runs I can use the first 10% NONE of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share #10 Posted August 26, 2014 Well, since I went blind in the one eye its just too much for me to figure out I can't see to read well or to work on the bike. Its nothing simple. Its too frustrating to work on it and not see what i am looking at. It runs terrible in the low end near as I can figure with all I have done its got to be the valves so far out of adjustment it would be incredible especially considering the Roadstar I have with 70K on it has never been touched and it runs perfect. Thought this would be an easy one for the forum. But here I go to the stealership. Pretty pissed, I took this week Vacation to ride and I am going no where. A hitch for the dependable Roadstar is in order. I'd be gone! My last Yamahas a Can assure you that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted August 26, 2014 Share #11 Posted August 26, 2014 Mike, Did it do this before you synched the carbs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted August 26, 2014 Share #12 Posted August 26, 2014 Sounds like the idle circuit is too lean. Are you running K&N's with the filter housings opened up per chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted August 26, 2014 Share #13 Posted August 26, 2014 Yes if you really hit the throttle like WOT the light will come on, nothing wrong with the bike. With the G force the oil swamps toward the rear of the pan and the sensor is in ther front of the pan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted August 26, 2014 Share #14 Posted August 26, 2014 To do the carbs, I disconnected the fuel line from the petcock and added another piece of hose and submerged the hose in the can of seafoam, started the bike and gave it throttle so it sucked the seafoam into the carbs until it stalled, and let it set overnight. The bike took a little bit of coaxing to start but when it did it smoked out crap for a good 10 minutes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share #15 Posted August 26, 2014 Mike, Did it do this before you synched the carbs? Yep. Thats why I checked em, they were not out by much. Getting them perfect has no effect. I read low end performance problems in Clymer and only thing I can see is Valves out of whack and that would be so disappointing since the bike only has 21K on it. I put 12 of that on in a year if they go out that quick, I need a bike with a better motor. I recently had a eye problem going to take 6 months of shots to fix so I can't really do a valve adjustment right now. I can't see good up close at all. Its a Retina Off whack so no glasses will help. I cant even read. I have to take a picture and blow it up to read. Zoom here works great I can read internet but the book is hard. The first part of the throttle is weak, I call it fluffy, it runs perfect otherwise. But you do not realize you use that first 1/4 twist the most. Even while cruising down the highway at 70 in OD . no power there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted August 26, 2014 Share #16 Posted August 26, 2014 I would be seriously surprised if it is the valves. I would suspect maybe a bad coil. For whatever reason, it is not uncommon for the right rear coil to go bad. Many here, including me, had to replace that coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share #17 Posted August 26, 2014 As a Last ditch effort with no where to go this morning I chacked the voltage Cranking, Running and under throttle, above 12.5 all the way. Did that to rule out the battery. I am not thinking the Coil, seems like it is firing on all 4. Runs like a top anywhere but where you normally run. Crising and at low speed. Like I said I can't see, or worse yet one eye can't see. its really frustrating to work on like that. You now how that is. I think I fixed it! I took it and my wallet to the dealer! With any luck the bike comes back fixed for the NEXT vacation (The 4th) and the wallet comes back broke. Never dreamed I'd be paying a dealer. If it needs a Valve Job it's Just one thousand dollars. I wrote that out so you know its not a mistake. They seem to think its just lean on the bottom. I might agree but how the hell did it get lean all of a sudden? Not from just blowing out the air cleaners! I WILL keep the Right rear coil in mind for the future. Is that the one on the rearward Left side? I can go Cylinder number if you have that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share #18 Posted August 28, 2014 O this never happens! I do have an award winning dealer here in town. Gigantic parts stock. Always pretty good to me on price but all the stories I hear about service depts. has me scared to death of them. When I dropped mine off, I felt I had no choice, No one here knew and I don't ask unless I read a lot and tried a lot. That I did. To Whits end. So the dealer said of course we have no idea but at the leats you are looking at $400 as it seems like its running lean, but we don't know, could be a valve job at $890.00 Ok. But whatever it is, it will be done tomorrow. Well they called and apologized it was not what they thought They old Here we go! Bells goes off. Ready to pick up and we Rode the DARKSIDE! It runs great! Oh and we were wrong on the price too. Less than $200 out the door. Thats $200 under their LOW estimate. $1200 under the High. Go on and right away I knew it was fixed. It was something pollution control, Blocking off the AIS would not have fixed it and you would need the exhaust probes to diagnose it. Then Sync it and check again. So I feel a lot better it was something I could not have done. At first it was just a Jetting issue and I though man If I could see right I could do this. The guy who worked on it could not explain the eaxt problem. He was busy. But they kknew their stuff, delivered quick, and cam in low on the price on a totally fixed bike. How often does that happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted August 28, 2014 Share #19 Posted August 28, 2014 My oil level light comes on once in a while under a really hard wide open throttle run.. I thought it wa normal as my 85 did the same thing.. brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Posted August 28, 2014 Share #20 Posted August 28, 2014 It is good to hear positive dealer service stories now and again... Glad they got you fixed up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted August 28, 2014 Share #21 Posted August 28, 2014 My oil level light comes on once in a while under a really hard wide open throttle run.. I thought it wa normal as my 85 did the same thing.. brianYes! Think centrifugal force and the fact the sensor is in the front... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share #22 Posted August 29, 2014 Yes! Think centrifugal force and the fact the sensor is in the front... But I wonder is it really starving for oil or is it just a bogus momentary misinformation event? So far I have not let off it when it does that and no blow yet. Very annoying. Same guy designed that who suggested the cassette deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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