Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I made my own it cost me 10$ for the cartop carrier at a yard sale and I had the trailer from a Reese backpacker witch I did not like because down here in Fl when it gets hot the plastic got flimsy.

Posted

yes...I def need to move on this project.

 

went to atlantic city for a wedding thsi weekend and the only thing stopping us from taking the bike would have been solved with one of these trailers.

 

a little too much to put in trunk and saddle bags and to nice of a weekend to opt for the car. The little trailer would have been perfect.

Posted

Wayne:

I bought this one from Randpcarriages on eBay. It works great on my 89VR.

 

 

[ame=http://www.ebay.com/itm/290660635436?]Trailer Light Isolated Power Supply Converter 5 to 4 Wire PM32 | eBay[/ame]

 

Jim

Posted

Jim: I am able to find 5 to 4 converter isolators but my bike AND my trailer are 5 wire so what I'm looking for is an isolator that does not convert. Cannot find such a puppy.. With the 84 I made my own with a number of relays.. but there was room to put them.. with the MM there is much less hiding space.

Posted
speakerfritz- I have one for sale all ready to go down the road. $250..

 

http://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/mpo/4444547901.html

 

I see you are in the NYC area. I am 6 hours west of there so I would even consider a little ride to meet you someplace in between if interested.

 

I have hauled it to California and back with no issues at all.

 

 

Thanks for the offer....I'm debating between two HF models....I need to see them up close before deciding on which model.

Posted
Jim: I am able to find 5 to 4 converter isolators but my bike AND my trailer are 5 wire so what I'm looking for is an isolator that does not convert. Cannot find such a puppy.. With the 84 I made my own with a number of relays.. but there was room to put them.. with the MM there is much less hiding space.

 

I got mine from Bushtec. Of course is has the Bushtec connector on it but that could be cut off and replaced with whatever you need.

Posted (edited)
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68383I also replaced the tongue with 2" square tubing, went longer, welded up some angle for cooler rack, then added a bicycle rack. Pulls nicer with longer tongue, could have bought same tubing as they come with but I had the 2" on hand. Made a stand for the front that folds down. I ran with 4 flat wiring but Jeff helped out with a center brake light circuit so we can also pull with a car. Edited by dacheedah
Posted (edited)
I have this trailer and it works great ! Don't really even notice it back there. We towed it on our trip West (10,000km/6000+ miles) with no problems. We have the original tires on it and no issues pulling it at 75mph.

 

When I bought mine I followed thecustomer comments and did the following :

- repack bearings

- rubber tubing (actually a piece of garden hose) on the shackle bolt (rear capture bolt)

- replaced lights with LED's

- put rubber (another piece of black garden hose) thru the holes where the wiring went thru the frame

- replaced the zerk fittings - one was broken out of the box

- replaced bolts holding the "car carrier" box to the frame with eye bolts. Will replace these with ones I saw at a trailer store that fold flat. This way I can use helmet nets to secure any load down while trailering

- shimmed coupler bolts with a couple washers - DON'T over tighten or it squezes the coupler in and the ball release won't work properly

 

I didn't see how to remove the overload spring so I left it in. Didn't flip the axle either.

 

I added a cooler rack to the tongue (made by a neighbour) and have to be careful of the tongue weight. You'll want no more than 25-30lbs of tongue weight. The location of the wheels doesn't give a lot of room for shifting weight but if you add a cooler to the tongue try to put as much weight to the rear as you can.

 

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that: I haven't installed the eye-bolts, nor have I installed a cooler rack. I also would add, when you repack the bearings, pay close attention to the preload!

 

anyone use one of these behing there royal star class bike?

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

 

the only thing I would change are the tires...2 ply are only rated for 55mph, 4 ply would be good for 70mph...not that I would go that fast with a trailer but don't think a 2 ply tire would cut it. I've had 2ply tires blow out on trailers before.

 

I love mine. I'm told :whistling: it pulls with no problems at 100+ mph. The original "cheap Chinese" bearings looked perfect when I changed them out at somewhere around 11,000 miles. I replaced the original 2-ply tires a few thousand miles later. They still have tread left and I am using them as spares. I run 20-25 psi in the tires, depending on the load.

Edited by wes0778
Posted

I'm looking hard at this trailer. But I notice they also sell other ones with no car top carrier.

 

Was kinda thinking of getting one of the others and buying a sepoerate car too carrier maybe a little more heavy duty and leaving room on the trailer for the cooler instead of on the tounge?

 

Maybe get larger tires with it too.

 

Really like the Bunkhouse camper but can't find one used.

Posted (edited)
I'm looking hard at this trailer. But I notice they also sell other ones with no car top carrier.

 

Was kinda thinking of getting one of the others and buying a sepoerate car too carrier maybe a little more heavy duty and leaving room on the trailer for the cooler instead of on the tounge?

 

Maybe get larger tires with it too.

 

Really like the Bunkhouse camper but can't find one used.

 

Mike,

Be on the lookout for Aspen campers as well

here's a used one but you can get them cheaper if you wait till this fall winter...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aspen-Classic-fold-up-tent-trailer-/231254827429?forcerrptr=true&hash=item35d7dca1a5&item=231254827429&pt=Motors_Trailers

 

heres a timeout camper:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-Timeout-Motorcycle-Camper-Trailer-/321430733477?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad6c3c2a5&vxp=mtr

Edited by CaptainJoe
Posted

I can probably wait. But will get the other one in the meantime. I'm on the hunt. I really liked the bunkhouse. If I knew I woukd like the trailer thing I would buy a new one. But my method of travel is mostly go go go stop when I land and go go go. If I get a trailer I will have to change my riding to riding loops back to the trailer drop point. I've been so got loose and fancy free up to now. Not sure I'll like towing. I love hitting curves hard and fast. That will be over towing.

Posted

HELP!

 

OK I pulled the trigger on this one for starters, Have a lot of uses for it beside the bike if it don't pan out.

 

Been peeking around and See a lot of info but I may be wrong. few questions.

 

Mine has a Zerk on the inside of the hubs, never seen one there. Is that for the back bearing only or both? Kinda looks like a bearing buddy for the rear side. Does everyone have zerks there?

 

OK I hear drop the axle. But the pins would then be on the wrong side and a nut would be in the pilot hole instead. Or are we able to flip that on the spring?

 

How about that spring, seen a GWer said he took one spring out. Makes a little sense, softer ride and according to the weight ratings we would not need both springs, what say you, Ideas Opinions taking all!

 

Someone else said the hardware is JUNK! The bolts snap when torqued down right. So for like $20 just go get all new Grade 8 from the start. Do we concur?

 

I did get the LED lights. Disappointed in these, All that lights is to the read RED no Side Marker RED LEDS. Just reflectors, I can fix that but that's BS.

OK so What will I need to hook them up? Any lick with LED and no Hoppy converter??? I tried to buy a Hoppy Converter with a Part number I got on here this winter and they sent me a Toyota Converter. Its pretty darn bulky. Could I just do a 7 wire system and forget the converter? Going all LED, adding addtional lighting, this is not enough for me.

 

What say you about the two ply tires? Switch to 4 6 or 8?

 

Someone made the tow bar longer, said it pulled better. HOW. I tried to stretch mine, its pretty solid. Ha.

 

It only appears to be easy to assemble, but after you poke around, there is a lot to know before you start.

 

Anyone have a tongue weight with like 100 lbs in it and no cooler on it?

Posted
HELP!

 

OK I pulled the trigger on this one for starters, Have a lot of uses for it beside the bike if it don't pan out.

 

Been peeking around and See a lot of info but I may be wrong. few questions.

 

Mine has a Zerk on the inside of the hubs, never seen one there. Is that for the back bearing only or both? Kinda looks like a bearing buddy for the rear side. Does everyone have zerks there?

Mine came with Zerks which broke right off with the 1st application of a grease gun. I took the wheels off and manually packed the bearings, initially. I give it a random shot or two occasionally before a long trip.

 

OK I hear drop the axle. But the pins would then be on the wrong side and a nut would be in the pilot hole instead. Or are we able to flip that on the spring? not sure why one would want to drop the axle, as the tongue is almost dead level with the stock position when I hook to the hitch on my RSV.

 

How about that spring, seen a GWer said he took one spring out. Makes a little sense, softer ride and according to the weight ratings we would not need both springs, what say you, Ideas Opinions taking all! Left the springs stock and just run 20 to 25psi in the tires. Yes if I air them up to full pressure the little trailer bounces like a basket ball.

 

Someone else said the hardware is JUNK! The bolts snap when torqued down right. So for like $20 just go get all new Grade 8 from the start. Do we concur? Didn't notice this problem

 

I did get the LED lights. Disappointed in these, All that lights is to the read RED no Side Marker RED LEDS. Just reflectors, I can fix that but that's BS. Bought the LED light kit from H/F. I also added several more LEDs on the top "clam shell"

OK so What will I need to hook them up? Any lick with LED and no Hoppy converter??? I tried to buy a Hoppy Converter with a Part number I got on here this winter and they sent me a Toyota Converter. Its pretty darn bulky. Could I just do a 7 wire system and forget the converter? Going all LED, adding addtional lighting, this is not enough for me.

 

What say you about the two ply tires? Switch to 4 6 or 8? Got well over 10,000 miles out of the original tires. I suspect the more plys the stiffer the tire and would probably bounce.

 

Someone made the tow bar longer, said it pulled better. HOW. I tried to stretch mine, its pretty solid. Ha. standard tongue works out well for me. I put the cooler IN the trailer. I mounted the spare tires on the tongue.

 

It only appears to be easy to assemble, but after you poke around, there is a lot to know before you start.

 

Anyone have a tongue weight with like 100 lbs in it and no cooler on it?100lb tongue weight would be insane!!!:shock3:

:cool10::cool10::cool10:

Posted

The last question, was what is the tongue weight with it loaded with about 100 Lbs.

I weighed all my gear when I got back from camping I think it was 142 Lbs. Say 40 of that is going on the bike in the storage there. So I am figuring like 120 in the trailer.

Posted

Tubing on what spring?

 

I was going to order a seperate plug in Light wire adapter from I think Steve W but I don't see it anymore in the classifieds.

 

I still wonder if the bike will handle the LED with no Hoppy converter. Anyone know>

Posted

The bike will handle it fine. I've run lights direct a few times. The issue is not really if the bike will handle it but it just provides a level of safety. The convertor will help protect the bikes system and lights if you happen to get a short in the trailer wiring.

Posted

I had a HF trailer with a Sears Cargo shell added.

One problem was that the shell opens from the back AND only opens a couple of feet.

This is because they are designed to be on top of a mini-van,,, so the owner can pack from the ground and also be able to reach the lid when open.

 

SO, if this is a 2' above the ground, like on a HF trailer,,, it is darn inconvenient. You mostly have to access it on your knees.

 

Backpackers and this HF open wider.

Posted (edited)

OK thanks a bunch, I really miss Steve W I could use one of his Radiator grille things. That sucks. Glad you guys pointed me to the right guy. I sent him a PM, He has a few things I am intrested in.

 

Ive spent over $100 in stuff for this trailer todays, Washers, Hardware, Lights, Wires, and about 100 miles running to get the stuff. It's all together but the lighting.

 

I figured out where the Hose went, I used clear hose and did some other things. Have to post about all that later. Well, back at it!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10204196284366224

 

Looks like I have to figure my lights out on my own, think I am just going to split the brakes and turns. I PM that guy to order everything he had for my bike, splitter, light bar, Butt connectors, and the thing in the fairing for when I have that off, No answer. 3 days. Plan B!

Anyways, if that link works, thats where I am at.

Edited by IronMike
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Yea that works perfectly. Wish I had a video even in the daytime I can see my lights on the side. I used a terminal block so I can easily switch it to a four wire if I have to.

 

Used all LED lights. 400 miles test complete.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...