pmelah Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share #26 Posted June 4, 2014 i dont have the screen on the petcock wish i did but i change the filter out every 6 months but now it will run at an idel and when i rev it up it will run good but then die when i cycle out the kill switch to filll the carb bowls back up it will crank and run then die the pump is very weak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted June 4, 2014 Share #27 Posted June 4, 2014 it will run at an idel and when i rev it up it will run good but then die when i cycle out the kill switch Unless I am misreading something, it is supposed to die when you cycle the kill switch. That is what it is for. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted June 4, 2014 Share #28 Posted June 4, 2014 (edited) I think what Paul is saying.. i dont have the screen on the petcock wish i did but i change the filter out every 6 months. But now it will run at an idel and when i rev it up it will run good but then die. When i cycle out the kill switch to filll the carb bowls back up it will crank and run then die the pump is very weak Edited June 4, 2014 by Neil86 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted June 4, 2014 Share #29 Posted June 4, 2014 Is the tach steady or bouncing down to zero and back up....the fuel pump relay needs to see firing cycles on #2 coil (which the tach also reads) to put power to the pump points set (after the 5 sec delay). If the tach is reasonably steady check the fuel pump relay is not shutting off the power to the pump while engine running, and you are running out of fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted June 4, 2014 Share #30 Posted June 4, 2014 What are good fuel filter substitutes to use instated of the Yamaha filter$$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 4, 2014 Share #31 Posted June 4, 2014 DNA, just today I replaced mine with Napa 3011. Perfect fit, high flow, and I also bought some nice yellow (I know) 1/4 very flexible gas line. Everything went easy, and very pleased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted June 13, 2014 Share #32 Posted June 13, 2014 So does anyone know what the specs are on the Yamaha pump and filter? Yamaha is SO ON DRUGS! They want over $250.00 for this pump and of course some pie in the sky price for the filter...There is NO justification for the prices on parts for toys like M/Cs, Boats, tractors, snow mobiles and water craft. It's a disgrace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share #33 Posted June 16, 2014 i have discoverd my problem all though i now have the mr gasket 42s pump on it it will crank and run but only at half to full choke i can spray a silicone lube spray on all the hoses under the carbs and it will run fine no choke for a few min then die unless i catch it in time and choke it or spray the hoses agan i got a leaking vac hose now to find all the culprits its probably the caps to they all 30 + plus years old from the looks of it :detective: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted June 17, 2014 Share #34 Posted June 17, 2014 PMelah... If this is a 1984 you are working on, is the YICS system removed...the large hoses off the intake ports and the chamber above front cylinder. The chamber can be bad for vacuum leaks as they age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share #35 Posted June 18, 2014 PMelah... If this is a 1984 you are working on, is the YICS system removed...the large hoses off the intake ports and the chamber above front cylinder. The chamber can be bad for vacuum leaks as they age. from what i can see the yics is still hooked up and never thought about that i remember seeing post on it to bypass it but cant find those post i will do some more digging if it doesnt need it i will get rid of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 18, 2014 Share #36 Posted June 18, 2014 Removing the yics is called the Jason mod. Here is one of the posts http://www.venturerider.org/forum/search.php?searchid=3088330 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share #37 Posted June 19, 2014 Thanks Heather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted June 19, 2014 Share #38 Posted June 19, 2014 Removing the yics is called the Jason mod. Here is one of the posts http://www.venturerider.org/forum/search.php?searchid=3088330 It is only known as the Jason Mod if the ports are tied together. My suggestion is to just plug the ports as I did and never have to worry about them again. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86100&highlight=YICS RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share #39 Posted June 22, 2014 im looking for the quickest easiest fix on this if i tie them together i will have to go back in if the hose cracks im also short a carb sync tool and how to adjust the air mix i realy dont want to pop the carbs from the boots so i will tempt to plug them without disturbing the carbs if at all possible but on the brite side of things i did diconect the yics and pull it out now to plug the ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share #40 Posted June 24, 2014 pulled the yics chamber out and stuck it under water and started watching all the neat little correction big bubbles coming from the seam well found my problem not going to repair by plastic welding it that would be a waste of time just going to do the jason mod got some hose i think will work now to get to the inside ports hans are just not small enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 28, 2014 Author Share #41 Posted June 28, 2014 update i pulled the yics and submerged the chambers under water and had bubbles coming up from the seam on all 4 chambers then i pulled 2 hoses and lots of holes and cracks in them now to get my big hansds in to the left side and get that hose off to check and replace this while the carbs are intact prognosis is not looking good to keep the carbs attached to the boots but i will try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted June 28, 2014 Share #42 Posted June 28, 2014 (edited) update i pulled the yics and submerged the chambers under water and had bubbles coming up from the seam on all 4 chambers then i pulled 2 hoses and lots of holes and cracks in them now to get my big hansds in to the left side and get that hose off to check and replace this while the carbs are intact prognosis is not looking good to keep the carbs attached to the boots but i will try I got all the hoses off and capped the pipettes on the cylinders using a LONG needle nose plier that has a curved (or bent) nose. It wasn't easy; a small ($0.25 size) inspection mirror and some LIGHT will make this job a LOT easier because it's hard to see the inboard pipettes. Recommend you put twisted wire around the rubber vacuum caps you put on the pipettes to ensure there are no vacuum leaks. When I was oversea in the USAF we were allowed to purchase tools in the Gov't tool store. I bought a pair of (what we called) "Safety Wire Pliers" . They are pretty long (about12") and have a short nose that grips the ends of the wire you want to twist. There is a sliding lock integrated in the LONG handle that latches both handles together locking the nose down HARD on the ends of the wire to be twisted. There is a knob built into the handle that ;s pulled, this spins the whole plier and twists the wire into the neat and even "barber pole" pattern you see on safety (sometimes called :mechanic's wire) wire. This was how I installed the wire around my YICS caps. Edited June 28, 2014 by dna9656 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 28, 2014 Author Share #43 Posted June 28, 2014 i will try that and i have seen the pliers you speak of havent seen a pair of those in some time but i think i may know someone who has a pair i can use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mralex714 Posted June 28, 2014 Share #44 Posted June 28, 2014 i will try that and i have seen the pliers you speak of havent seen a pair of those in some time but i think i may know someone who has a pair i can use Harbor Freight sells them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted June 28, 2014 Share #45 Posted June 28, 2014 Harbor Freight sells them. 6" pair: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-45340.html $10.00 9': http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-45341.html $12.00 http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/safetwirepliers.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G in SC Posted June 29, 2014 Share #46 Posted June 29, 2014 Awesome,,, I thought I had liberated mine when I got out of the Air Force in '73,, but never saw them again. I might have to buy a set just to say I got em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share #47 Posted June 30, 2014 sorry guys harbor freight is just to far to walk over 20 miles one direction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoomerCPO Posted June 30, 2014 Share #48 Posted June 30, 2014 Go to Amazon.com and search for "Lock Wire Pliers". I have ordered them there several times.....and if I remember correctly you can also get the wire to use as well. Just know that the smaller diameter wire requires a very "light touch" with the Pliers because the small wire breaks easily. Boomer....who sez he used to be a lock-wiring fool when he rode Nuclear Subs.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted June 30, 2014 Share #49 Posted June 30, 2014 sorry guys harbor freight is just to far to walk over 20 miles one direction So ok; if it's the return direction is a SHORTER distance I really don't see the problem. Harbor Freight ships as does Amazon.com. I really don't know why more guys don't keep these pliers. I use them to make small rotor rooters for clogged lines, you can spin up 2 lengths of safety wire to make a MIGHTY stiff hook to retrieve a dropped part from NEVER,NEVER, (seen or used again) Land. I use them for all sorts of things. I first saw them on the flight line in the USAF too. I wanted to liberate a pair but I re-trained into Vehicle Maintenance befor I got a chance, when I went to Keflavic NAS to support AFI (Air Forces Iceland)F-15s that escorted USSR bombers through the Greenland, Iceland, United Kingdom (GIUK) Gap. The NAVY let us BUY them in the Local Purchase store. That was a support store where units could buy everyday supplies instead of ordering them and waiting for them. They had TOOLS! That was something that (IMHE) the USAF didn't do so it was taken advantage of believe me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share #50 Posted June 30, 2014 no thats 22 miles uphill :stirthepot::rotf::rotf::rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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