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Tearing into the bike,,,part Deux,..


DarrinGT

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I found most of the shims online today, only lacking one 260. If you have one of those I would appreciate it.

 

I will let you know on a bucket soon, May have one coming already but waiting to hear back.

 

So since I am pulling the Cams,,.I may as well put the V-Max cams in hu,...? :whistling:

 

Thanks for your help!

 

262 is smallest I have, if that will help.

 

You might want to get several buckets as they vary ever so slightly in size.

 

Gary

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OK, Thank you for checking.

 

I will check on the 262 tomorrow and let you know. Im at home now and all my stuff is at the shop. Still have not heard back on the guy with the one bucket, will let you know as soon as I hear. This one is brand new in the package.

 

Are the different sizes are just from the manufacturing? or different sizes on purpose?

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OK, Thank you for checking.

 

I will check on the 262 tomorrow and let you know. Im at home now and all my stuff is at the shop. Still have not heard back on the guy with the one bucket, will let you know as soon as I hear. This one is brand new in the package.

 

Are the different sizes are just from the manufacturing? or different sizes on purpose?

 

They will all fit any hole, just wear in a little different.

 

I have 4 of them sitting here if you want them. No charge.

 

Gary

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They will all fit any hole, just wear in a little different.

 

I have 4 of them sitting here if you want them. No charge.

 

Gary

 

 

Thank you Gary for checking on the buckets, I will take them. Get me a price for your time and shipping and I will paypal you. I never heard back from the other seller so I will take yours. Thanks again.

 

For Shims the 262 wont work but It turns out that I do need another 275, so if you have one of them please include that in the price as well.

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I have a couple of 260, one 258, and one 262. I have others, too. Let me know. I still have your address.

 

Awesome! I will take the 260, and as I told Gary I still need a 275, so if he doesn't have one and you do just let me know the price with shipping and I will get you paid.

 

Thanks!

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You Sissy you,,,, :rasberry:

 

Who would not want to go down to 32 miles per gallon :confused24:

 

No Doubt I am wimping out!,.. Problem is I was getting 28 to 32, and that is what started this project! Still trying to keep a good balance between Performance and Fuel Mileage, and sorta winging it at the same time.

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Awesome! I will take the 260, and as I told Gary I still need a 275, so if he doesn't have one and you do just let me know the price with shipping and I will get you paid.

 

Thanks!

 

I have the 275 also. How does $10.00 shipped for both shims sound?

Sorry it took so long to reply. For some reason I'm not getting notifications of new posts.

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Ran into a problem on the VMAX Rear swap,..

 

I got the rear back and am getting it installed today, The problem is where the front of the driveshaft slips into the yoke coming out of the back of the trans,..That Yoke is flopping around in there, and wont stay straight. So I cant get the driveshaft inserted in the yoke.

 

How do I that yoke to stay straight?

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Ran into a problem on the VMAX Rear swap,..

 

I got the rear back and am getting it installed today, The problem is where the front of the driveshaft slips into the yoke coming out of the back of the trans,..That Yoke is flopping around in there, and wont stay straight. So I cant get the driveshaft inserted in the yoke.

 

How do I that yoke to stay straight?

 

 

Did some more searching, Found the Plastic Plug on top of the Swing arm just above the u joint, I should be able to get it with that.

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Ran into a problem on the VMAX Rear swap,..

 

I got the rear back and am getting it installed today, The problem is where the front of the driveshaft slips into the yoke coming out of the back of the trans,..That Yoke is flopping around in there, and wont stay straight. So I cant get the driveshaft inserted in the yoke.

 

How do I that yoke to stay straight?

 

2 suggestions.

 

Look into drive shaft tube with flashlight and rotate motor until universal yoke is at 45 deg. This helps hold tail of universal joint in a more fixed position angled down. If the yoke is parallel to ground, it has a tendency to flop right to left which makes inserting shaft difficult.

 

Also there is a plug on top of the swing arm (Ventures & RSV's) on top, just behind universal joint, this can be removed & a stiff wire inserted to hook universal tail to help align it. 2nd person helps with this approach.

 

Gary

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Ran into a problem on the VMAX Rear swap,..

 

I got the rear back and am getting it installed today, The problem is where the front of the driveshaft slips into the yoke coming out of the back of the trans,..That Yoke is flopping around in there, and wont stay straight. So I cant get the driveshaft inserted in the yoke.

 

How do I that yoke to stay straight?

 

Hi Darrin.

 

It is a little tricky and if one does not know the trick then this is a pain. What you do is you take a coathanger wire or any kind of stiff wire and you make a hook on the end. You insert the hook end into the hole that is in the front left side of the swingarm, (covered with a plastic plug) and hook it into the joint of the yoke. Then you just pull the joke joint to the right position. I kind of laid on my back and looked into the swingarm using a small LED light while I was getting the wire in the right position. Took me about five minutes to get this together after I got the right dimension of the hook and so forth made. Also - I remove the driveshaft out of the final drive when I do this and pop it back together afterwards. Much easier just working with the shaft alone in your hands than the full assembly.

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The Bike is looking pretty sad,......

 

 

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140118_151241_zps01f75151.jpg

 

 

 

On a Positive note, I got my new Carbtune Pro in yesterday, $85.00 shipped.

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140118_151508_zpsae238245.jpg

 

 

Now can I Sync the carbs on the bench, or do they have to be installed,...?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just Kidding,...:whistling:

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Now can I Sync the carbs on the bench, or do they have to be installed,...?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Set up your shop vac to each carb. Make sure it sucking in the correct direction. Then synch each utilizing the vacuum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just kidding...

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When I went to the VMax rear on my 83, it required me to use a MKII shaft with the seal. I pulled the driveshaft out of the final drive and used vise grips to clamp on to the end of the shaft and then stick it up into the tube. I can lift the universal joint up and slide the driveshaft in. I may have to twist it slightly, but I have never had it take me more that a few seconds to put a driveshaft in.

I then align the coupling on the final drive with the splines on the shaft and slide it forward. Bolt it up and put the wheel back on. Simple.

RandyA

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The Bike is looking pretty sad,......

 

 

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140118_151241_zps01f75151.jpg

 

 

 

On a Positive note, I got my new Carbtune Pro in yesterday, $85.00 shipped.

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140118_151508_zpsae238245.jpg

 

 

Now can I Sync the carbs on the bench, or do they have to be installed,...?

 

Just Kidding,...:whistling:

 

Fasten them in a manner where you can shine a bright light up through the bottom of all 4 venturis. Then adjust the sync and idle screws to where each throttle plate is just closing. This can be seen looking directly down into top of venturis. There will be a sliver of light as venturi is close to being fully shut.

 

Start with #2 carb using idle screw to adjust. You may have to loosen the 3 sync screws to allow #2 to fully close. Adjust idle screw until it is just seating. Then adjust #1 sync screw to match closing of #1 butterfly to #2, then move to 3 & 4, sync that pair, then sync 1/2 to 3/4.

 

PDF procedure from 1st gen attached, should be same as yours.

 

This takes a lot of back & forth to get them close if they have been disassembled, but makes it much easier to dial in when on bike.

 

Gary

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Set up your shop vac to each carb. Make sure it sucking in the correct direction. Then synch each utilizing the vacuum.

 

 

 

Just kidding...

 

 

Good Tip Thanks!,.That reminds me, I need to buy a new filter for the Shop Vac, Better do that first so I can get the correct readings,...:)

Edited by DarrinGT
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Thanks for the help with the Driveshaft, I got it installed today, No problems, Got the tire back on as well.

 

While I was under the bike poking around I found a single wire with a white plug that is not plugged into anything, It is above the rear suspension pivot.

 

Anyone know what this is,..?

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140120_151046_zps88cd09f7.jpg

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Also I decided I wanted to try to get a lower tone out out of the Monster Ovals. To to that I wanted to wrap the baffles. I picked up some Wood Stove Rope and wrapped the baffles and clamped the ends down. Unfortunatlly it will be a while till iI am able to see how it sounds, but it is easy enough to remove if I dont like it:

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140120_173356_zps2e0538cf.jpg

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Fasten them in a manner where you can shine a bright light up through the bottom of all 4 venturis. Then adjust the sync and idle screws to where each throttle plate is just closing. This can be seen looking directly down into top of venturis. There will be a sliver of light as venturi is close to being fully shut.

 

Start with #2 carb using idle screw to adjust. You may have to loosen the 3 sync screws to allow #2 to fully close. Adjust idle screw until it is just seating. Then adjust #1 sync screw to match closing of #1 butterfly to #2, then move to 3 & 4, sync that pair, then sync 1/2 to 3/4.

 

PDF procedure from 1st gen attached, should be same as yours.

 

This takes a lot of back & forth to get them close if they have been disassembled, but makes it much easier to dial in when on bike.

 

Gary

 

 

Thanks Gary, I plan on working on the carbs soon, installing new jets, and setting the Floats, so Ill do this at the same time.

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