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Tearing into the bike,,,part Deux,..


DarrinGT

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wish i could help but im of no use to you on this as it is im hardly any use to myself:whistling:hopefully some one will chime in as for skydoc well he might be on extended holiday trying to recover or something you know how that jolly fat man in the red suit can get this time of yr :rotf::rotf:

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I like the sound of that exhaust!

Are you going to do the Big Foot Mod on the air box? I'm thinking that you will need the air flow for the 32mm carbs.

 

I have the valve shim tool, but I don't know where it is right now. I just moved and had to empty my tool boxes to move them. I don't know what moving box the tool is in. If I knew where it was I would happily loan it to you. As far as the shims, any bike shop should have them. They are 25mm diameter. You will just have to know what thickness you need.

 

How are you using your bike? Mostly two up? Planning to pull a trailer? Don't use vmax cams if you need the low end torque. You are better off keeping your stock cams or swapping in newer Venture cams. The vmax cams are more for high rpm power. The only way to get better mileage is to get your carb jetting set right. After you get all of your air box, carb swap, exhaust, and cam (if you swap cams) work done, you will either have to rejet using trial and error, or pay someone who has the diagnostic tools to rejet the carbs properly.

 

I don't remember if you have the Dyna 3k TCI. It and the rear gear swap are the two best things I have done to my bike for performance.

 

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/pofarm/library/Royal

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wish i could help but im of no use to you on this as it is im hardly any use to myself:whistling:hopefully some one will chime in as for skydoc well he might be on extended holiday trying to recover or something you know how that jolly fat man in the red suit can get this time of yr :rotf::rotf:

 

Cool, thanks for the input anyway,, Yea it is a busy time of year for everyone,,just getting a little anxious to have everything lined up on this project.

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Good news! I dug around a bit and found the tool. PM me your address and I will send it to you.

 

Awesome Thanks! I will send you a PM,,and will also respond to your other input when I have more time tomorrow afternoon.

 

Happy New Year!

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Well after a couple busy weeks with Christmas, New Years, Lots of snow and busy busy. I decided just to kick back at the shop and tinker on the bike, Instead of doing any "real" work at the car lot,,,although I did have to stop and sell one car. Ya do what you gotta,...

 

I decided to pull the rear end today so I can get it shipped out for the V-Max Gear Swap:

 

Got the mufflers pulled and tire off:

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140104_102030_zpsa9ec74c8.jpg

 

Crap,..got Grease Finger prints on the brand new White Walls,..

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140104_102022_zps9b5dd098.jpg

 

 

Then pulled the rear end off. I did a synthetic fluid change about 15K miles ago, the oil still looked like Brand New.

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140104_123626_zps91f85405.jpg

 

 

Here are the rear units, I have them packaged up and ready to ship out to John. I got the VMAX rear off of ebay for $65.00, he is swapping the gears, for me and keeping the V-Max rear with the Royal Gears for the labor. So the only thing it is costing is the shipping. Cant argue with that!

 

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s564/Darrin-GT/1997%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Makeover/20140104_123641_zpsac6c68ab.jpg

 

Then I did some tinkering with the 32MM Carbs, but that's about it for the day....

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I like the sound of that exhaust!

Are you going to do the Big Foot Mod on the air box? I'm thinking that you will need the air flow for the 32mm carbs.

 

I have the valve shim tool, but I don't know where it is right now. I just moved and had to empty my tool boxes to move them. I don't know what moving box the tool is in. If I knew where it was I would happily loan it to you. As far as the shims, any bike shop should have them. They are 25mm diameter. You will just have to know what thickness you need.

 

How are you using your bike? Mostly two up? Planning to pull a trailer? Don't use vmax cams if you need the low end torque. You are better off keeping your stock cams or swapping in newer Venture cams. The vmax cams are more for high rpm power. The only way to get better mileage is to get your carb jetting set right. After you get all of your air box, carb swap, exhaust, and cam (if you swap cams) work done, you will either have to rejet using trial and error, or pay someone who has the diagnostic tools to rejet the carbs properly.

 

I don't remember if you have the Dyna 3k TCI. It and the rear gear swap are the two best things I have done to my bike for performance.

 

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/pofarm/library/Royal

 

Just now had a chance to respond,

 

Yup I am happy with the sound as well, cant wait to hear it on the road, Thanks!!

 

As far as the Big Foot Mod, This is the first time that I have seen it, so I will do some more checking. Since this bike has has the Barons Big Air Kit on it, with the 4 individual K&N Pods, I never paid attention to any air box mods, cause I never had one, Guess Ill have to check it out.

 

Thanks again for getting me the valve Tool, That will be the next thing I will be working on.

 

As far as using the bike, It is mostly 2 up riding, usually with full bags and Tour Pac. No plans on pulling a trailer, and decided against V-Max Cams. Ill keep the stock ones. I don't have the Dyna 3000 but have been watching them on E-bay. Still considering that one.

 

Looks like your bike has gone thru a lot of the same transition as mine, Faring, Exhaust, bags, etc. Looks great!

 

Thanks again,..

 

Darrin

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Lets talk Jetting,..

 

I have been searching on what to do with jetting. The 32MM carbs have staggered jetting and from what I have read it is because if the Air Intake Systems that the 99 and up bikes have. The 28MM carbs dont have staggered jetting.

 

So, since I am using an air box from the 28MM Carbs it would make sense to me to have all the same jets on the 32MM carbs. I am trying to run a fine line here for fuel mileage and performance, so I really don't want to go up on all of the jet sizes.

 

32MM carb jetting are"

 

Cylinders 1 and 2 have 122.5

Cylinder 3 has 117.5

Cylinder 4 has 120

 

My thought is to change out cylinders #3 and 4 to 122.5 Jets to match 1 and 2,..

 

I would also consider going from #15 on the pilots to 17.5.

 

So,..any thoughts on my line of thinking,,,,or am I nuts for messing with the jetting at all? or am I just Nuts in general,.....?

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Lets talk Jetting,..

 

I have been searching on what to do with jetting. The 32MM carbs have staggered jetting and from what I have read it is because if the Air Intake Systems that the 99 and up bikes have. The 28MM carbs dont have staggered jetting.

 

So, since I am using an air box from the 28MM Carbs it would make sense to me to have all the same jets on the 32MM carbs. I am trying to run a fine line here for fuel mileage and performance, so I really don't want to go up on all of the jet sizes.

 

32MM carb jetting are"

 

Cylinders 1 and 2 have 122.5

Cylinder 3 has 117.5

Cylinder 4 has 120

 

My thought is to change out cylinders #3 and 4 to 122.5 Jets to match 1 and 2,..

 

I would also consider going from #15 on the pilots to 17.5.

 

So,..any thoughts on my line of thinking,,,,or am I nuts for messing with the jetting at all? or am I just Nuts in general,.....?

 

That's a tough call. If the jetting is too lean your mileage will suffer. If it is way too lean the engine may be damaged as well. If it's too rich your mileage will also suffer, as well as fouling plugs. It's a fine line that takes experimenting to get right, or the proper instruments to measure the exhaust emissions and motor performance. There are too many variables to say what will and won't work. The intake set up, carb set up, and exhaust set up all play a role in getting the proper jetting.

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That's a tough call. If the jetting is too lean your mileage will suffer. If it is way too lean the engine may be damaged as well. If it's too rich your mileage will also suffer, as well as fouling plugs. It's a fine line that takes experimenting to get right, or the proper instruments to measure the exhaust emissions and motor performance. There are too many variables to say what will and won't work. The intake set up, carb set up, and exhaust set up all play a role in getting the proper jetting.

 

 

Thanks for the input, I know it is kinda hit and miss on jetting, but what I am figuring if I keep it close to stock, the intake is stock box, with a K&N, the exhaust is stock, with "slip Ons" and just make the main jets all matching, I should be at a good starting point. Just trying not to do anything too radical.

 

I would like to do a Dyno test on it this spring,

 

 

Any other thoughts,...?

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Well I have been working on doing my valve adjustment, and think I screwed something up.

 

First of all I have some tight valves and am having a hard time finding the shims. My local dealer wants $20.00 each for them. I need 6 for a total of $120.00 and can buy a whole kit for $160!,..This has been dam frustrating,...

 

Secondly I now have a valve that is not coming back up, I pulled 2 shims, rotated the motor and realized that the cam lobe got stuck inside the bucket. I did not force the motor but was able to get the lobe out of the bucket, but I am afraid that I may have damaged the bucket. Now with a shim back in, the valve is not coming back up all the way.

 

I just discovered this problem and have not gone any further with it. I am pretty pissed at myself right now and I just have to walk away from it for a while.

 

So What am I looking at? Pulling the cams? Pulling the Head?,..Pulling the Motor,..?

 

HELP!,..Please,...

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Is it possible that you have bent the valve ? Did you start the bike up after doing the adjustment and then the valve got stuck or,,,,, ?

A gentleman who was installing V-max cams in my 1998 Tour Classic made a mistake and had the timing wrong. He took the bike for a spin and bent the crap out of the rear cylinders valves. Had to replace them all.

Hope you wil get this straightened out and wish you all the best with your project - An awesome looking bike to say the least.

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Is it possible that you have bent the valve ? Did you start the bike up after doing the adjustment and then the valve got stuck or,,,,, ?

A gentleman who was installing V-max cams in my 1998 Tour Classic made a mistake and had the timing wrong. He took the bike for a spin and bent the crap out of the rear cylinders valves. Had to replace them all.

Hope you wil get this straightened out and wish you all the best with your project - An awesome looking bike to say the least.

 

 

Thanks,..The bike doesn't look so good right now tho..

 

No the valves bent, has not been run because I am doing the valve adjustment and it is all tore apart. As I said, Once I saw that the valve was not coming back up, I walked away from the project for now,..

 

I am just afraid that I may have damaged the bucket, and it is stuck in the head.

 

Any Help is appreciated!

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Ok, I went back at it for a few min this afternoon, I got the bucket to rotate in the head and the valve came back up, and works up and down now without getting stuck, But the Bucket does not rotate freely so I will be pulling the cam and replacing the bucket....

 

Love making more work for yourself,...

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Do you know what size shims you need?

 

I have a few spares I could check.

 

Also have spare buckets.

 

Gary

 

I found most of the shims online today, only lacking one 260. If you have one of those I would appreciate it.

 

I will let you know on a bucket soon, May have one coming already but waiting to hear back.

 

So since I am pulling the Cams,,.I may as well put the V-Max cams in hu,...? :whistling:

 

Thanks for your help!

Edited by DarrinGT
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