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Carb Diaphram Replacement


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There's been some questions in the past as to how to replace the carb diaphrams, so when I did mine last night, I took some pictures, everybody always like pictures, RIGHT?

Well here goes the write up:

1) Remove the false tank cover, side covers, side rad covers and loosen the lower faring. Remove the air box lid and the air filter. This would also be a good time to clean the air filter and the air box. You need to do this so you can reach into the carbs later.

2) Identify the part, the diaphragm cover, which has 4 torx screws, the one having a pin in the middle. This was done to make it hard, otherwise everything would be easy and any mechanic could do it. I didn't have one to show you, so you'll have to take my word for it. It can easily be snapped out by using a needle nose pliers or if it's stubborn a small punch. Just work it back and forth once or twice and it will come clean out.


3) Remove all the screws and the cover will pop out by it self, seeing as there is a spring behind it. Save the spring, it will come in handie when you put things back together.


4) Now that you have this area open, it's a good time to use some Carb Cleaner to clean the area, and all the little ports you can see. Finish by blowing out with air. At the bottom you'll see a little built out area that has a rubber ring in it. Be sure to save this ring as well, otherwise it's sure to get itself lost and then you'll have to wait longer for more parts.


5) Inside the diaphram body you'll find a plastic screw, turn it out by turning counter clockwise, that's the opposite way the hands on a clock turn. Under that screw will be another spring, not at all the same as the first spring, but a spring none the less. Keep it handy as well. Under the spring will be the needle assembly. This consists of the needle itself, a 'C' ring and a small washer. Best not to loose these either. They all need to go back in order in the new diaphram.

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6) You are now ready to begin the installation of the new diaphram. Make sure that the little washer is mounted on the short side of the needle (#3) and then with a needle nose pliers insert the needle into the new diaphram (#1). Now comes the part where you pay attention. On the collar of the the needle you see a little plastic pin,(#2) this needs to seat in the hole provided for it in the base of the diaphram. Once the needle is inserted into it's rightful location you can very slightly push it back and then by turning it you'll have it find the hole (#5). Now you cannot turn the diaphram over again until the plastic screw is in place, but first you need to put the little spring back in on top of the needle (#6). Then with a needle nose pliers you drop the plastic screw down into the diaphram and with flat screwdriver wiggle it until it jumps into it regular spot, at which time you can gently attempt to turn it into the threads. Sometimes this goes easy, sometimes it takes a bit more time, but don't give up, it will happen.

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7) Once you have the diaphram together you can slide it back into the carb. You'll find a tab on the outer edge of the diaphram and that seats into the cutout for in the carb. This is also a good time to remember to put the rubber O ring back in place at the lower end of the carb. To make things easy, fold the diaphram to-wards the carb and seat it in the grove provided for it. Next insert the long spring, that pushed the cover off in the first place, into the diaphram, but do not let it seat the plastic slide into the carb as this will cause it to unseat the rubber from the carb. Now seat the spring in it's approved place on the cover. Do not push it together just yet.

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8) Now as you can see, I did mine while the carbs were off the bike, that was because the motor was already out and second gear was under construction. You really don't have to wait until second gear goes or you have to take the engine out for some other reason. This can all be done very nicely right on the bike. So now comes the final process: before you push the cover back into place, put your finger or have someone else place their finger, or use a piece of plastic or steel, (I wouldn't suggest wood as you may get dirt into the carb) into the throat of the carb to prevent the diaphram from sliding in. This will keep the bead seated in it's proper spot. Once the cover is in place and two screws have been inserted and tightened you can withdraw your 'finger' from inside the carb.

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Now, wasn't that easy?????

Edited by Freebird
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Maybe its just me BUT it apears you removed a little more then just the, false tank cover, side cover, side rad cover, lower fairings, air box lid & air filter. However enjoyed the pictures & all around good article. :canada::canada::canada::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf:

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