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Hannigan Trike Trunk Lock??????????


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Jim on trike talk has used his for about 2 years now. .He also says a few of his friends have them on there Trike now and all are happy. Mine will be here in a couple days.

 

You can not use the Hannigan Cam. Just open the hole a tad larger install and maybe file

the Locking part inside a little wider. you can also adjust it , as I have replaced my lock

a few times already over the years. pretty simple, I think this T is the closes to Hannigans set up IF FLAT CAM IS ORDERED if not all you have the do is take a hammer

and flatten the bend on the cam. (the one the vendor shows) I think he will re-add the flat cam soon though.

 

If anything I will dremal the slot into the new part if I need to..I will keep you posted in a few days to what I think input this.

 

Jeff

Edited by Cougar
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I found this T-Bar lock while doing online searches. It will require drilling two small holes, one on either side of the shaft. Would that be advisable that close to the shaft? The price is right!

http://www.sears.com/prime-line-product-locking-t-handle/p-SP102A19475S6247456106?prdNo=47

 

Handle is too long and would interfer with the trunk. Probably made for a garage door.

 

 

On the flat cam of the one I used I didn't have to cut a slot . It just fits tight against the body. Maybe mine is too short to reach that metal tab but it felt pretty strong. I'll revisit that today.

Larry

 

UPDATE: OK so after checking the cam it comes just short of the metal bracket Hannigan uses. So I'm going to add an extended cam to the latch so it'll engage the metal bracket. Needed or not my thinking is it'll be a stronger locked trunk then.

Edited by Carbon_One
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Jim on trike talk has used his for about 2 years now. .He also says a few of his friends have them on there Trike now and all are happy. Mine will be here in a couple days.

 

You can not use the Hannigan Cam. Just open the hole a tad larger install and maybe file

the Locking part inside a little wider. you can also adjust it , as I have replaced my lock

a few times already over the years. pretty simple, I think this T is the closes to Hannigans set up IF FLAT CAM IS ORDERED if not all you have the do is take a hammer

and flatten the bend on the cam. (the one the vendor shows) I think he will re-add the flat cam soon though.

 

If anything I will dremal the slot into the new part if I need to..I will keep you posted in a few days to what I think input this.

 

Jeff

 

 

Thanks Jeff & Larry;

 

I'm going with the simpler latch that Jeff is using. If the cam lever doesn't reach the Hannigan metal bracket, I'll just glue a metal plate to the underside/inside trunk where the latch hits to prevent wear.

 

Ordered with eBay seller yesterday. If I don't like it, I'll just throw it away at this price.

I don't know why Hannigan wouldn't alter their builds for a better latch. It would polish off their great product.

 

JohnnyB

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Yup,,, Thinking that is the cheapest mod they ever made , since the rest

of the trike is pretty darn well built. but skimp on a lock :think: I am thinking they

Paid about the same price for the OEM as we did on that eBay one... Hey did you

ask for the (FLAT CAM) ??? If not you can hammer out the bent one.

Jeff

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Yup,,, Thinking that is the cheapest mod they ever made , since the rest

of the trike is pretty darn well built. but skimp on a lock :think: I am thinking they

Paid about the same price for the OEM as we did on that eBay one... Hey did you

ask for the (FLAT CAM) ??? If not you can hammer out the bent one.

Jeff

 

Yes Jeff;

 

I remembered to ask for the "Flat Cam" in the comments.

Thanks;

 

JohnnyB

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I found this one during an internet search and it appears to be a direct copy of the one recieved from Tri-Wing - http://jintay.en.alibaba.com/product/229919722-215341401/Zinc_Alloy_Furniture_Cabinet_T_Handle_Lock.html

I sent the company a request for costs and you'd be supprised how liitle the per unit cost was. The return e-mail said minumin order was 2000 units at a cost of (ready for this?) $2.80 each. Just no way one of us could invest that much for so many. Grainger has one very close to this one too at a cost of $54. Way too much IMHO.

Larry

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I got both my (T) locks today in the mail took 2 days.

 

All I can say is that there really well built and strong.

100 % better then the Hannigans cheap lock system.

 

I got both bent cam and straight cam as I didn't know with out

asking if we could get the flat cam . the chrome is really good

as well, Now to get one of these bad boys installed .

now to find the time LOL. anyways I am impressed.

 

Heck at these prices I my order a few more just to keep around.

Also, the picture on eBay doesn't do this lock justest at all :-)

 

Will report back soon.

 

Jeff

Edited by Cougar
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No, email him right now and say you want the flat cam on that order.

there very fast to respond. and HURRY as they ship super fast.

I just did the same thing about an hour ago and email him as well.

I ordered two more

Jeff

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Took about 10 Min's to install it. but still trying to figure out how Jim

Got it to latch, I am almost thinking he cut the rubber in that area

to make the latch close? as the shaft/threaded part is shorter then the

OEM lock... Will report back

Jeff

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OK, what I did was remove the Hannigan lock stop inside the trunk

and bent the cam at a angle and now it closes and locks

Going to bend the cam a little more so it not as tight.

 

I think this will work fine. If you guys come up with any other

options let me know. I also have a few pictures I can post of

how I did mine.

Jeff

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This will give you a idea of how I did mine. pretty simple and NO DAMN KEY :happy65:

 

When you remove the old lock there will be a ring mark there and that is

where I put the RED mark.. I might have gone over just a tad.

 

I used the round drum sander on my Dremal tool worked perfect.

 

Then removed the inside post for the old lock.

And adjust the Cam to make a nice fit.

 

Good luck!

 

Jeff

 

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Your welcome and thanks John .

 

I just thought of something , I think I will cut a small strip

of thin aluminum and goop it to the underside of the rubber molding

where the cam is making contact

the molding is pretty strong , but maybe will help for wear over time :scratchchin:

OH , and go back in an apply some medium strength loc-tit as well to

the cam and the large nut.

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LOL yeah you will be fine, ya gatta bend the part anyways, I have

both angle and flat, I thought I almost was going to have to use the

angle type, one slug hammer whack otta do it :D

 

and YES that seller is super fast, sheesh- no messing around with him.

 

and if it dont work out I will send you a flat if you need it !!

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I hope these pictures help. I see that cougar has done something different. If you have the bent one don't straighten it out the dimenions should be the same as the old lock in length. I bought the straight and just notched it and put a rubber boot on the stem in the trunk to take up the slop. make sure you notch the blade the same as the old one. does this make sense at all?

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Jim.. well that was my plan to notch the cam.. except the bar kept hitting

the trunk as if the end of where the cam bolts on is not long enough..

and hits the trunk rubber , so I had to bend it to make it reach. are you

saying you extended it a bit? I will call you today from work later. :-)

 

see your photo # 4 I see that you have the leanth , Mine is a shorter reach .

So the I had to bend for the reach othewise it just hits the lip of the trunk/

 

Jeff

Edited by Cougar
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