crowrod Posted January 22, 2013 Share #1 Posted January 22, 2013 I just finished installing R-1 gold dot calipers and 14mm mc I am not impressed! Did I miss something? calipers have hh pads and I have speed bleeders in calipers. Brake lines are from a 2007 roadstar also 2007 splitter. any ideas? all thoughts welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted January 22, 2013 Share #2 Posted January 22, 2013 If they feel equal to, or worse than the stock ones you took off, something isn't right. Perhaps you didn't get all the air out, speedbleeders are a great gadget, but I have found them to be somewhat of a bear with trying to do an entire swap out. I always go old school and do the pump up and crack the bleeder. I have done several brake jobs that took a while to get all the air out. One thing I found was not all banjo bolts are created equal. I swapped my '86 over to R1's and delinked the brakes. I used parts from several different bikes to do this, here's my write up... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65356&highlight=Banjo+Bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 23, 2013 Share #3 Posted January 23, 2013 Speed bleeders are good if you install them on an established system but if you swap calipers I would use a Mityvac for the initial bleed and then use the speed bleeders for the finish. as far as R-1 calipers go I never experienced the front wheelie effect you would think you would get from the R-1 addition. Instead what I ended up with was a better brake feel, something better than "slightly" if you know what I mean and better modulation. I have the Vmax splitter and stock master. Also have S/S lines on mine and those DO make a difference. Are your also SS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crowrod Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted January 23, 2013 I am not looking for something that is going to give me stop on a dime results .I am looking for a improved front braking system, some thing that will give me a improved braking ratio. a 70/30 would be great, if I could get that I will be happy. NO I am not running ss lines cant decide which way to run em 2 lines strait from mc or three w/spliter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin-vic-b.c. Posted January 23, 2013 Share #5 Posted January 23, 2013 So if I am understanding this correctly, I cannot just swap out my "stock" 86 calibers with the R 1 or R6 calibers and leave my existing lines and set up as is. I would need to change to matching brake lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royalstargazer Posted January 23, 2013 Share #6 Posted January 23, 2013 I wouldn't say that. When I changed my calipers, I used the existing brake lines. I figured they would work till I could get a stainless steel one made up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted January 23, 2013 Share #7 Posted January 23, 2013 So if I am understanding this correctly, I cannot just swap out my "stock" 86 calibers with the R 1 or R6 calibers and leave my existing lines and set up as is. I would need to change to matching brake lines? Yes you can, your brakes will still be linked. But the ends will be twisted a bit as the banjo mounting hole in the caliper is angled differently. I just went ahead and delinked when I did the mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 23, 2013 Share #8 Posted January 23, 2013 (edited) If they feel equal to, or worse than the stock ones you took off, something isn't right. Perhaps you didn't get all the air out, speedbleeders are a great gadget, but I have found them to be somewhat of a bear with trying to do an entire swap out. I always go old school and do the pump up and crack the bleeder. I have done several brake jobs that took a while to get all the air out. Not to say your way won't work Brad, but I've found that when doing an R-1/6 caliper swap I leave the pistons compressed and the Speed-Bleeders open when bleeding the first time. This reduces the internal caliper cavity, and there's not as much volume to move when getting all the air out of the system. After the caliper bleed, and lines are free of air....then close the bleeders and seat the pads. Makes bleeding a lot quicker and easier then the old pump and crack method... Edited January 23, 2013 by Condor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted January 23, 2013 Share #9 Posted January 23, 2013 I just finished installing R-1 gold dot calipers and 14mm mc I am not impressed! Did I miss something? calipers have hh pads and I have speed bleeders in calipers. Brake lines are from a 2007 roadstar also 2007 splitter. any ideas? all thoughts welcome What about changing out the master cylinder ? I had the R1 installed on my 98 Tour Classic II after a engine upgrade and was adviced the following: "Seen that your bike has R1 calipers but you still have the stock 5/8 inch master cylinder. The R1 calipers really need a 14mm master cylinder to work the best. The bikes on which that caliper is used all have a 14mm master cylinder. It is a smaller diameter than the 5/8 inch and gives a lot more leverage. When I put the R1 calipers on mine, I used the stock M/C at first. It works, but I was really disappointed and it wasn't long before I bought a 14mm M/C to go with them. It made all the difference. This set up is really amazing". I have not tried out my bike yet but BigTom has. Says that the power scares the cra# out of him. Said that it has powerful brakes and needs it - so I guess the brake setup is working out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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