wide rim for 1st gen

[dingy]

The fit of the rear Rim on 1Gen Vmax is almost identical to stock, 0 to 2mm Offset to the right. but you have to mill down the stock Caliper Bracket from 30 to 19 mm to get the Hub in the Swing Arm.

 

 

I would rather not go to the larger dia. rim. It would hurt my take off power in general.

 

I had to mill down the VMax caliper bracket also to get it to fit into the frame with the VMax wheel. There was no way the Venture brakes would work with the VMax rim.

 

Gary

[pmelah]

so what kind of money am i looking to spend on a vmax hub and wheel to do this mod?

 

factory rim is 16 i dont mind staying at 16 or droping to 15 but dont want an 18 i think it would be harder to find an 18 tire not only that i dont know if the machine shops around here could or would handel anything that big or know what to do or what im talking about

[dingy]

so what kind of money am i looking to spend on a vmax hub and wheel to do this mod?

 

factory rim is 16 i dont mind staying at 16 or droping to 15 but dont want an 18 i think it would be harder to find an 18 tire not only that i dont know if the machine shops around here could or would handel anything that big or know what to do or what im talking about

 

I got the rim & 99% brand new tire for $165 on ebay.

 

Caliper, caliper bracket & torque arm was about $50.

 

It takes welding a custom made tab on the swing arm & shortening & bending the stock torque arm. Not sure what I ended up using for brake hose, I think it was a stock Venture rear though. It will be changed to a S.S. this winter.

 

Few of the in process pictures attached. One shows 3 vmax brake arms one is stock, middle is final version & left was one I used for fitment. One picture shows caliper mounted above rotor, but saddle bag would not clear it. Next to last shows stock Venture brake mount setting in place, with no chance of being made to work.

 

Gary

[Squeeze]

I would rather not go to the larger dia. rim. It would hurt my take off power in general.

 

I had to mill down the VMax caliper bracket also to get it to fit into the frame with the VMax wheel. There was no way the Venture brakes would work with the VMax rim.

 

Gary

 

Gary, actually you'd increase Holeshot Performance.

 

These are the Tire Circumferences:

 

1Gen VR - 140/90 R 16 - 2068 mm

1Gen Vmax - 150/90 R 15 - 2045 mm

FJR 1300 - 180/55 R 17 - 1979 mm

 

On 1Gen Vmax, you'll increase RpM at a given Speed by 420 switching from stock Tire to 180/55R17. That's why some of the souped up Maxxes are using a VR final Drive.

 

In other Words, you're on the Way to create a Wheelie Machine with everything you did on Tweety plus converting to a 17".

 

If you give me the current Specs, i could give Gear Data a Moment of Calculation and show you what it would change.

[jasonm.]

I agree, a lot of what is done in the motorcycling industry is more about appearance than functionality or performance, for example, just look at pretty much any harley davidson.

 

But AMA superbike racing is different, those guys would ride a bike that literally looked like a big stinking wet dog turd around the track, if it would win races

It is ALL about function in that world and they ALL have a big wide (within reason, there are no 280 or 300 series or anything ridiculous) tire on back, so I can't see why they would be putting a tire on their bike that made it handle WORSE.

 

If a narrow tire cornered faster or better, they would all have the narrowest tires available...

 

Therefore, the statement made that wider tires make for harder/slower cornering MUST be at least situationally false, based upon massive empirical evidence to the contrary.

Super wide tire for some people is an EGO thing..."look at me". "Hey dude, look at that wide tire set up". Common w/H-D people and choppers. FYI-Any rear tire bigger than 190 on any bike, just SLOWs the turning ability.

[johnnydemonic]

Ok, that coincides more closely with reality than what you said before:

Wider tires slow steering response.

 

which is only true if you add a qualifier, like "wider (than 190) tires slow steering response".

 

All the quibbling about details aside, I have never really had a problem with handling on my venture with the standard 140 series on it, even with a relatively cheap kenda challenger on it.

In dry conditions, stuff will start scraping before the rear tire loses traction.

 

Still though, I guess I must be a raging egotist, because I LOVE the way a nice fat tire looks on a chopper....

[pmelah]

Super wide tire for some people is an EGO thing..."look at me". "Hey dude, look at that wide tire set up". Common w/H-D people and choppers. FYI-Any rear tire bigger than 190 on any bike, just SLOWs the turning ability.

 

 

its not an ego thing and i dont want a super wide tire im not running a hardly i just want a little more rubber on the road also i dont think the fender could hanle much more and no one would ever see it from the saddle bags and the mud flap i tried to down load a pic of it but it keeps sayin download failed i need to resize the pic and i havent figured that out yet now as for my 2nd Gen im going to the dark side with that one

[johnnydemonic]

I can't recommend anyone doing this, but if you decide that you want to......

 

You might be able to fit a 150 on there, I haven't tried it yet, but if you measure the available space and then take your measurements to the local bike shop, you might be able to find a "slightly" wider tire that will fit in the available space.

Tire width is not really standard among various manufacturers, what one calls a 150 is not neccesarily the same width as what another calls 150, so you go in looking for a 150 that runs a little bit narrow.

 

A 140 tire should be close to 5 & 1/2 inches

A 150 should be close to 6 inches.

With my 140 on there, it looks like a have a little over 1/4 inch of room before the tire will rub the swingarm on the shaft, or left, side, so in theory, a 150 that runs slightly narrow should squeak on in there with just a little room.

 

I have done the same thing on several bikes I have owned in the past (not my venture, though) and have had pretty good luck fitting all the rubber possible in the space given, sometimes with just millimeters to spare.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that a tire can change shape and size slightly with temperature and pressure changes, so you need a little "growing" room.

 

I once put the widest tire I could possibly fit onto a z1-900 I owned, and there was literally about 1mm space before the tire would rub the brake torque arm, which was the limiting factor on that bike after I swapped the 18 inch wheel for a 16 inch wheel.

 

I didn't notice it at first, but the tire grew a little after it heated up, and the arm scrubbed about an 1/8th of an inch off the right side of the tire.

After that, it fit perfectly and never rubbed again, but I can easily imagine a tire overheating and popping if it rubbed a little harder against a more unyielding surface, so my rule of thumb is to go for at least 1/8th of room to spare.

[pmelah]

I can't recommend anyone doing this, but if you decide that you want to......

 

You might be able to fit a 150 on there, I haven't tried it yet, but if you measure the available space and then take your measurements to the local bike shop, you might be able to find a "slightly" wider tire that will fit in the available space.

Tire width is not really standard among various manufacturers, what one calls a 150 is not neccesarily the same width as what another calls 150, so you go in looking for a 150 that runs a little bit narrow.

 

A 140 tire should be close to 5 & 1/2 inches

A 150 should be close to 6 inches.

With my 140 on there, it looks like a have a little over 1/4 inch of room before the tire will rub the swingarm on the shaft, or left, side, so in theory, a 150 that runs slightly narrow should squeak on in there with just a little room.

 

I have done the same thing on several bikes I have owned in the past (not my venture, though) and have had pretty good luck fitting all the rubber possible in the space given, sometimes with just millimeters to spare.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that a tire can change shape and size slightly with temperature and pressure changes, so you need a little "growing" room.

 

I once put the widest tire I could possibly fit onto a z1-900 I owned, and there was literally about 1mm space before the tire would rub the brake torque arm, which was the limiting factor on that bike after I swapped the 18 inch wheel for a 16 inch wheel.

 

I didn't notice it at first, but the tire grew a little after it heated up, and the arm scrubbed about an 1/8th of an inch off the right side of the tire.

After that, it fit perfectly and never rubbed again, but I can easily imagine a tire overheating and popping if it rubbed a little harder against a more unyielding surface, so my rule of thumb is to go for at least 1/8th of room to spare.

 

thanks for the info i was thinking about the same thing although i was not sure about how wide i really could go on tire size before rubbing i know tires change in size when heated even with nitrogen in the tire but the change is minimal with nitrogen also i thought all tire mfg. made the same size to spec i didnot know that they vary by mfg.

[johnnydemonic]

In general, a 150 tire is nominally 150 mm in width, but in my experience, what one manufacturer considers to be 150 mm is different than what another may consider to be 150 mm.

I haven't done any checking in the last 10 years or so personally.

Maybe there has been a crackdown and specs have tightened up, but I doubt it.

 

I think it would be worth a couple hours of time to check around, for someone who was interested and motivated.

[pmelah]

i will be checking that out i have a bike dealer couple blocks away that carries tires and another about 1 mi away that carries a few tires dont know what brandsbut i will check