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I didn't read to the end & see your last post.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!

You struck gold. Enjoy the ride. Looking forward to meeting you somewhere on the road. If you decide to go to Sturgis get in contact with me. we are trying to put together a mini VR rally in Sturgis.

Edited by Patrolman46
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I too have been lurking and I also bought a 1992 VR that had set up like 6 yrs. (bad mistake but done) I have a friend who is a great Harely guy and has worked on Kaw. but not Yamaha and first time every looked at VR. He is trying to get the carbs cleaned but

is stumped at getting the throttle cable lose to free the carbs without taking off the faring. He has read all the post on the carb cleaning and had done all that but still needs to get the carbs off to free up any jets that are clogged. He took the throttle handle off

to try to get a lose throttle cable but found that the cable is held by fastern's that he can't get too without taking off the faring or that is how he sees it now. I told him I would write and see if anyone had ran into the problem and how to solve it.

 

He found it amazing how the bike has a fuel pump to pump the fuel up to the carbs and has found the fuel filter to be letting has pass through to the pump and the pump works fine. Back brakes are also not working and I gave him articles on that issue I found on this list. Great list btw. He advises me to sell the bike once I get it running since he pointed out "if it goes down on a trip no bike shop will touch it" I always take insurance for towing but I have found that all shops don't wont to work on bikes over 10 yrs old.

Live and learn and at 65 I guess I am not finished learning.

 

Thanks for any help on the throttle cables a Harley guy is used to baling wire and duct tape so this machine is testing him. ( I did trailer it home so I did one thing right)

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On the left side of the bike, under the fairing, there is black junction box where the upper throttle cables meet the lower cables to the carbs, and the cable to the CC. They are a push/pull set up as you proably figured out already.

 

I think, if I remember right you can access the juntion box by removing the lower fairing on that side and and reach the the screw that holds the junction box housing together. I alway had the left upper fairing off when I did this as you need that removed to have room to pull the carb rack out from the left side anyway.

 

The box holds a set of cams that tie the cable together. Loosen the tensioner on the carb rack on the cable and that will give you room to remove the ball ends from the cams.

 

Please......look at this assembly carefully and take note of the location of each cable. There is a a spring in there also so watch how that is attached. It can be a bear to put back together if you don't remember each postion.

 

Once you get the cable loose and the air box off you will be able to loosen the clamps on the bottoms of the carbs and pry them up gently and then slide them out to the left.

 

There is a breather hose that runs from the crankcase to the airbox and that will need to be disconnected to and pulled up with the air box so the carbs can be slid out. We'll will talk later about putting that hose back on. LOL! Yes, we will!

 

That should get you started anyway.

 

Remember you do need to use an assembly plate when putting the rack back together when you're done. If any of the bodies are off axis it can be a PITA to get them to sync up and seal correctly.

 

And sell the bike when it runs? What the heck? I bought mine as a non-runner and most of it was packed in boxes when I got it. Had been stored for 9 years like that. Been on the road with it now for about what? 5 years? No matter what I buy next this one stays in the stable. One heck of a bike. Once you ride it, you'll see what I mean.

 

And NO DUCT TAPE! We use expoxy here. :rotf::rotf:

Mike

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OK... We are back.

Now the story can be told.

We live in Tucson, AZ, and I found this bike on craigslist in Monterey, CA. The seller had posted a stock photo from Yamaha, and only had a phone # for a contact. My partner, Susan & I called and then emailed with Gail, the seller's significant other. After talking with her quite a bit, we decided they were sincere, and not scammers. We headed there on Wed. last week, and got to actually load it on Friday morning.

 

Turns out that it is a 2007 that was parked as soon as it was purchased new. Apparently, the guy bought it and immediately became intimidated by it. The right front engine bar has a little rash on it, looking like it may have had a minor mishap. It was stored under a heavy canvas cover in a carport. It has 28 miles on the odometer.

My son, Frank & I unloaded it this morning, and he helped me fiddle with it all day.

When we drained the tank, I was astounded to find that the gas still smelled like new. I believe that the manufacturer added fuel stabilizer to the gas when they built it, not knowing how long it might sit around until it sold. Nevertheless, I removed the tank, and drained it completely. I took out the completely dead battery, and it looked so new that I hooked up the charger. It just sat there for awhile, and then it started taking a charge. after a couple hours, the amps started to drop, so we put it back in and hooked it up.

I decided to leave the oil alone, thinking that break in oil was probably in there, and it looked brand new through the sight glass. With the bike in high gear, I shoved it, and was able to turn the engine over with relative ease.

What the heck...

I hit the starter, and after a very little cranking time, it started right up. Sounds like a brand new bike. All 4 cyls hitting right away, as per the cold start fingertip test.

The tires look brand new, of course, and were around 20 psi, so I inflated them, and will run them cautiously to see how they do.

If it will stop raining today, We will take a maiden voyage to the DMV for plates, and then to the dealership to register the warranty.

After calling my local Yamaha dealership with the VIN#, they tell me it is under warranty until 2015. I can't figure this, unless he bought some kind of extended warranty. We shall see . The way I see it, the warranty would last until 2012. I won't be looking that horse in the mouth.

 

The only downside I can see to my story is that due to its proximity to the pacific ocean, some of the chrome is pitted. After going after the rusty spots with some fine steel wool and WD40, I have been impressed with how well it is coming out. The slip on pipes are the worst, and we'll probably be replacing them anyway. The rest, I will mess around with. I may resort to sanding and painting some minor trim, or even powder coating. Last resort, maybe rechroming, or even replacing. Pretty minor stuff, I think, considering that otherwise, the Midnight Venture appears to be brand new.

That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.

 

Now, for my questions...

When you all convince me to change the oil, what should I use?

Can I use synthetic now?

What about synthetic lube in the rear drive?

 

Sorry for this monster post. Thanks for your patience.

Bert

 

Maybe I'm the over cautious type, but I think a tire change would be in order before riding it very much.

1. They are at least 4 years old, and have been sitting in one spot for a long time.

2. If they are Brickstones your 1st(ride) impression will be BAD!!!

Get a set of Avons or Elite3s on it!!!

BTW I understand blowouts are no fun on these 900lb pigs!!!

 

As for oil, there are as many opinions here as members!

for me I use Rotella (blue jug) full synthetic in the engine, along with a PureOne PL14612(or PL14610) oil filter. And the Wally World brand 85-140 full synthetic in the final drive. I change the final drive every oil change.

 

OH, AND:welcome1:to the asylum!!!

Also you gotta learn rule #1 without pictures it didn't happen!!!

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