tcoop Posted July 27, 2011 Share #1 Posted July 27, 2011 Things that I have done to the TCI; 1. Removed it from the original mount on the bike to be under the false tank. 2. Replaced the diodes. They were corroded. (Hopefully i soldered them correctly) 3. Baked it in the oven to make sure it is dried out. I thought that I had it fixed. I connected the TCI up after baking it and the bike started right up. Filled the tank with gas and went for a ride around Pineview Lake and back. Had a little popping but it may be from needing to be synced. After letting the bike cool down it would not start again. So on a whim I baked the TCI again. This time for only 10 to 15 min hooked it up and the bike starts right up. I can ride it all day as long as I don't let it cool down much. While riding I noticed that if I let the rpms get down to 1200 It would all of a sudden drop to 0 with the bike still running but feeling like its missing on one cylinder. As soon as I rev it up a little it comes back. This is the first time that I have soldered anything this small (Lot of copper pipes when building my house) so I'm not sure if I did it correctly. What are the steps to solder correctly? I'm trying to get this going with out killing my budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted July 27, 2011 Share #2 Posted July 27, 2011 in my totally inexperienced opinion...I would GUESS that when it is hot, something is expanding and creating a good contact. once it cools an contracts, the contact is lost. There is a thread on the site with how to test the TCI. Maybe if you test it cold, you will be able to find out which circuit is faulty. I'm sure someone else will jump in with better info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted July 27, 2011 Share #3 Posted July 27, 2011 Things that I have done to the TCI; 1. Removed it from the original mount on the bike to be under the false tank. 2. Replaced the diodes. They were corroded. (Hopefully i soldered them correctly) 3. Baked it in the oven to make sure it is dried out. I thought that I had it fixed. I connected the TCI up after baking it and the bike started right up. Filled the tank with gas and went for a ride around Pineview Lake and back. Had a little popping but it may be from needing to be synced. After letting the bike cool down it would not start again. So on a whim I baked the TCI again. This time for only 10 to 15 min hooked it up and the bike starts right up. I can ride it all day as long as I don't let it cool down much. While riding I noticed that if I let the rpms get down to 1200 It would all of a sudden drop to 0 with the bike still running but feeling like its missing on one cylinder. As soon as I rev it up a little it comes back. This is the first time that I have soldered anything this small (Lot of copper pipes when building my house) so I'm not sure if I did it correctly. What are the steps to solder correctly? I'm trying to get this going with out killing my budget. The Tach is triggered off of the #2 cylinder, So if you drop the #2 cylinder it will also drop the tach. It is possible that you have made a bad solder joint and/or damaged the solder pads on the board. It is very hard to get the old diodes out an not do some damage to the board. Look at each of the joints that you soldered with a good magnifying glass (10X) to be sure that the diode is soldered to any circuitry on both sides of the board. Normally there is a connection thru the board from one side to the other if there is a circuit run on both sides of the board, it is very easy to damage that thru hole connection while pulling the old diode out. If the thru hole connection is good and you did your soldering correctly you will be able to see some solder on the component side of the hole. If you can not see that a tiny amount of solder made it thru then you can carefully resolder that connection on both sides of the board. When I did my TCI I found a puddle of water in the inside of the case. Mine is now sealed up water tight and moved to inside of the left faring. where there is a lot less heat and moisture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share #4 Posted July 27, 2011 What is the best way to get the sealant layer off? (The stuff that looks like some one vomited on it) I scraped it off some with the iron trying not to damage the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted July 27, 2011 Share #5 Posted July 27, 2011 (edited) You want to GENTLY scrape it off with a strong blade. It sounds like you developed a cold solder joint on one of the diodes or the edge connector... you want to heat JUST the pin or the leg and let IT heat the solder, THEN add a TINY bit more fresh solder. Most folks heat the pad and the solder melts, but this doesn't allow the leg or pin to heat enough to adhere to the solder, when that happens you only have a weak mechanical connection that gets worse over time. The orientation of the BLUE end of the old diodes should match up with the stripped end of the replacements! http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci2.jpg Edited July 27, 2011 by mbrood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted July 27, 2011 Share #6 Posted July 27, 2011 (edited) Compare the 1st picture and the one mbrood posted in prior thread. Will show correct before & after diode orientation. I doubt it is diode orientation, it wouldn't work hot or cold then. It is very easy to lift a trace on these old boards, you may have damaged one and it will be a chore to find if you did. I had to put several of jumpers on the back of first one I did to get it right. 2nd picture is back of board, Not pretty, but it worked well. Jumpers are just to left of SCR mount screws. These were needed due to damaged traces. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT4844s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT4845s.jpg Edited July 29, 2011 by dingy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share #7 Posted July 27, 2011 I do know that I have the diode oriented the correct direction. I was trying to heat the pins but I may have been impatient with it. If the diodes get too hot will this ruin them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted July 27, 2011 Share #8 Posted July 27, 2011 (edited) Absolutely, You should use a heat sink when you solder them in, like a pair of forceps clamped to lead. If you look at component side of board in picture I posted above, you can see where I didn't put diodes right against board. A circuit board like this in manufacturing is run through a pool of solder that only touches bottom of board usually. With the leads as short as they are on the existing components, the transistors, diodes and IC's would have a high failure rate if they were individually soldered. The pool method is quick , so not much heat is wicked up the leads. If you did overheat diodes, this could be the cause of the hot running condition, maybe. Gary Edited July 28, 2011 by dingy grammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share #9 Posted July 27, 2011 So a longer lead is better (I tried to put mine at the same hight as the the old ones). I think I will try to pick up some more (and some forcep) and try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted July 28, 2011 Share #10 Posted July 28, 2011 What kind and diameter solder are you using? For electronics you MUST use only rosin core solder and rosin flux. The acid core stuff from most hardware stores will cause corrosion to the board over time. You want to be using .032 Dia or smaller solder, do NOT try to use the lead free crap, unless you really know what you are doing the lead free is hard to get a good joint. To clean things up get some solder removal braid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share #11 Posted July 28, 2011 I used the rosin core not sure what the diameter is. I'm heading to Radio Shack at lunch to get the correct supplies. Watched some "How To's" on YouTube and found that I did it completly wrong . Thats how we learn I guess, Do it wrong and learn from your mistakes. One of these days I will learn how to do it right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share #12 Posted July 29, 2011 How do you fix a raise/missing piece of trace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulign Posted July 29, 2011 Share #13 Posted July 29, 2011 If you can see where it goes you can just run a wire in it's place. Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted July 29, 2011 Share #14 Posted July 29, 2011 That is why you want to take some good close up pics, BEFORE you do any work, so that if you mess up a trace you can tell where it used to go for the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share #15 Posted July 29, 2011 I'll have to remember that for the next time. Luckily there is an outline where the trace use to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted July 29, 2011 Share #16 Posted July 29, 2011 (edited) This picture may help, note the model # in upper right corner. Numbers & letters show where wires & traces are coming to around board. I can email a higher resolution picture if it would help. PM me address. Gary Edited July 29, 2011 by dingy email pic note added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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