Trying To Fill Differential

[GaryZ]

OK guys, I have drained the differential and calculated that the refill is 300cc or 10oz (.3L per the manual). My problem is the fill plug doesn't want to come loose. It appears to be a 6mm female hex head and my allen wrench only wants to twist. I have soaked it in penetrating oil for now . . . Any ideas?

[Snaggletooth]

I had to give mine a smack with the hand impact to crack it loose the first time.

[ricky lopckhart]

Might want to try a hand impact screwdriver with a hardened 6mm bit.

[Marcarl]

Had a problem with my 85 as well,,,,,, seems to be of the opposite gender and doesn't listen well to gentle persuasion. Knock it well on it head, it needs a sharp impact to wake it up.

[frankd]

You could also try warming up the area around the plug with a propane torch. Don't get it too hot though or you will discolor the paint.

 

 

I'd also use a good hex bit socket and a ratchet or breaker bar.

 

 

When you put the plug back in, don't over tighten it......they all get hard to remove.

 

 

Frank

[GaryZ]

Got it off!

 

I retrieved my set of 3/8"-drive hex head sockets and with a 3/8-to-1/2 adapter and a breaker bar it came right off. Sitting overnight in penetrating oil probably helped . . .

 

Thanks to all for the responses

[skydoc_17]

Hey Gary,

I wrap plugs like this with a wrap or two of the white teflon plumbers tape used for pipe threads.

Works every time!

Earl

[jasonm.]

I know the 1300 has a sealing washer. So there is no need to wrap the threads on a 1300. I thought the 1200 also had the same waher? Using teflon tape only invites bits of the tape to fall into the rear drive when you remove the plug...next time. So I cannot understand why you would do that....A bit of high temp grease on the threads makes more sense to me. Not to mention the oil that is on the threads from the last change. I just think it's an issue for those who do not change the rear oil often enough.

[Lil Venturous]

I was thinking of using antisieze?

[skydoc_17]

Hey Jason,

Many times, when you screw a METAL fastener in an ALUMINUM housing, due to the different expansion rates, you could have a condition where the aluminum threaded housing "captures" the metal fastener. We see this a LOT on our VR's, (Allen head cap screws in the engine cases, Phillips Head screws in the Carb. Diaphragm Caps, etc.)

The object of the Teflon tape is not to "seal" the threads, it is to isolate the metal thread from the aluminum housing. I am sure you have seen the "white dust" on the Allen Head Cap Screws that hold the side cases on, this is caused by the mating of dissimilar metals, and the process is called electrolysis. I am sure that you are correct that a drain plug left in a final drive for 25 years would be a "bugger" to get out, BUT, to make a statement that ANYONE that has trouble removing the drain plug from their final drive is guilty of neglecting their bike, is a bit bold, not to mention that the electro-chemical condition I described above is most likely the ACTUAL cause.

As it is with ALL of the suggestions I make here on this forum, please feel free to use what you want, and leave the rest. After working with the assembly of dissimilar metals in the Aerospace Industry for 39 years, I try to share the items that keep the air planes you fly on, IN THE AIR, every day. If the Teflon tape idea doesn't "float your boat", then by all means, spin that drain plug out every few weeks! After all, it's your drain plug, and your bike! For the rest of the members, if you change your final drive lube yearly, like I do, try the tape, it works.

Earl