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mighty vac


naturbar

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just purchased a mighty vac. i have owned an 07 RSTD since new and i notice the clutch fluid has a brownish color to it - the front master is not near as brownish. i quickly read thru the brake bleeding instruction but would love to have a step by step breakdown of how to use this thing for brakes and clutch fluid. and show i use DOT5 fluid when replenishing it? thanks guy for for any inputs...........

 

Buz

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just purchased a mighty vac. i have owned an 07 RSTD since new and i notice the clutch fluid has a brownish color to it - the front master is not near as brownish. i quickly read thru the brake bleeding instruction but would love to have a step by step breakdown of how to use this thing for brakes and clutch fluid. and show i use DOT5 fluid when replenishing it? thanks guy for for any inputs...........

 

Buz

 

Check Youtube, you will find videos there.

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I must be the only one who can't get either a one way valve brake bleeder, or a Mightyvac to work and has to bleed brakes and clutch by hand using a wrench.

 

Tryed a 1 way valve and after a few squirts the valve sticks open and let in air.

 

So I bought a Mighty Vac. I couldn't get the hoses to hold vacuum and not leak air bubbles. I even put grease on the fittings and used hose clamps.

 

Doing it by hand with a wrench to open & close the bleeder works, so thats what I did on both my bikes this summer. The 2000RSV I bought in April looked like it had never been changed.

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I must be the only one who can't get either a one way valve brake bleeder, or a Mightyvac to work and has to bleed brakes and clutch by hand using a wrench.

 

Tryed a 1 way valve and after a few squirts the valve sticks open and let in air.

 

So I bought a Mighty Vac. I couldn't get the hoses to hold vacuum and not leak air bubbles. I even put grease on the fittings and used hose clamps.

 

Doing it by hand with a wrench to open & close the bleeder works, so thats what I did on both my bikes this summer. The 2000RSV I bought in April looked like it had never been changed.

 

 

i had the same problem. leaking hoses. a few "tie wraps" solved 99% of those leaks.

just an FYI, don't put the mighty vac back in its original PLASTIC box, until you are certain that it is clean and BRAKE FLUID free.

don't as me how i know.

just jt:backinmyday:

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The Mighty Vac comes with a beaker for bleeding brakes and clutches. The beaker will be connected between the Mighty Vac and the bike. The lid to the beaker has connections for two vacuum hoses. A deep one and a shallow one. Using the hoses supplied connect the shallow end to the Mighty Vac. Connect the deep end to the bleeder on the bike. Take the lid off of the master cylinder on the bike. Pump the Mighty Vac to create some vacuum in the beaker. Open the bleeder on the bike. Fluid will be drawn into the beaker. Close the bleeder and top off the master cylinder. Repeat this process until clean fluid is coming out of the bleeder. The idea is to not get brake fluid in the Mighty Vac. Pause and empty the beaker before it gets full if necessary.

Mike

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and show i use DOT5 fluid when replenishing it? thanks guy for for any inputs...........

 

Buz

 

No, do not use DOT 5. Its different. Use either DOT 4 or if you can find it, DOT 5.1, which is not the same as DOT 5.

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so far it sounds as though the majority thinks the mighty vac is ineffective. i've bled brakes many times on cars by using a coke bottle (or pepsi bottle,lol) partially filled w/brake fluid and placing a neoprene hose into the fluid and placing other end over the bleeder nipple - crack the bleeder and pump the pedal until air has escaped fresh fluid is now in the system - is there any reason this can't be done on my bike? and an same be done with the clutch? i appreciate the inputs.

 

buz

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so far it sounds as though the majority thinks the mighty vac is ineffective. i've bled brakes many times on cars by using a coke bottle (or pepsi bottle,lol) partially filled w/brake fluid and placing a neoprene hose into the fluid and placing other end over the bleeder nipple - crack the bleeder and pump the pedal until air has escaped fresh fluid is now in the system - is there any reason this can't be done on my bike? and an same be done with the clutch? i appreciate the inputs.

 

buz

 

You'd have been better off spending the money on a set of Speed Bleeders. 4 SB's would run about the same price as the Mighty Vac.

I had no problems using the Mighty Vac. Worked well on my Suzuki 750 and my Honda car for power steering. I went with the Speed Bleeders for my RSTD. I somehow got the wrong size for one or two of them (can't recall), so I used the Mighty Vac with it (again, no problem). But, the SBs were nice to use. You'll need to remove the fins on the left rear cylinder to install the SB for the clutch.

 

Dave

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I'm with Jack on this one. Speed Bleeders are Great. Jack do you think you could swap them from one bike to others? At 7 bucks each it adds up when you got a few bikes to work on.

 

Don't see why not. Put another wrap of teflon on the threads and go for it. MOF I have a couple on the old '83's ADives that will be going on the '99 when I get around to it. Will need to pick up a couple more off the web site fairly soon.

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anybody have the part numbers for the 2 front, 1 rear and 1 clutch speed bleeders? ....and best place to purchase?

 

This is probably your best bet. I found them cheaper other places but then they want the difference in shipping. They have a part# lookup on the site. http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

Edit:

Here ya go... cheaper than I remembered. I'm sure there's some shipping, too.

 

SKU Description Price Qty. Ext.

SB7100S SB7100S Speed Bleeder $7.00 $14.00 (2)

SB8125 SB8125 Speed Bleeder $7.00 $7.00

SB8125L SB8125L Speed Bleeder $7.00 $7.00

Subtotal: $28.00

Grand Total: $28.00

Edited by BigBoyinMS
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