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Rear Axle stuck---89


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My wife and I are on vacation, and just pulled into my daughter's in Mufreesboro TN.--500 miles more to get home. The last couple of days, I've been hearing strange noises from the rear end and brakes, mostly from the rear end when you decellerate moderately and the rear end is hot. I put in on the center stand and this time (I"ve checked it several times) I felt side to side plaly in the rear wheel. When I pulled the cotter key and tried to tighten the axle (I also loosened the axle cinch bolt) I found it was about 1/2 turn loose. I tightened it and still had the play. I decided to pull the rear wheel and see what's wrong. I can't get the axle to move. I usually just put a phillilps scredriver in the 2 holes on the right side and twist and pull the axle right out. This time I can't budge it by turning it OR hitting it soundly on the left side. I've got the cinch bolt completely out, and I've driven in a wedge to open up the axle clamp. It won't move. I've read here where one guy had the axle worn apart. I'll be mine is started down that path. How can I get it out????

 

Frank

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My wife and I are on vacation, and just pulled into my daughter's in Mufreesboro TN.--500 miles more to get home. The last couple of days, I've been hearing strange noises from the rear end and brakes, mostly from the rear end when you decellerate moderately and the rear end is hot. I put in on the center stand and this time (I"ve checked it several times) I felt side to side plaly in the rear wheel. When I pulled the cotter key and tried to tighten the axle (I also loosened the axle cinch bolt) I found it was about 1/2 turn loose. I tightened it and still had the play. I decided to pull the rear wheel and see what's wrong. I can't get the axle to move. I usually just put a phillilps scredriver in the 2 holes on the right side and twist and pull the axle right out. This time I can't budge it by turning it OR hitting it soundly on the left side. I've got the cinch bolt completely out, and I've driven in a wedge to open up the axle clamp. It won't move. I've read here where one guy had the axle worn apart. I'll be mine is started down that path. How can I get it out????

 

Frank

 

Try heating it up with a torch and then see if it'll move. You've probably disintigrated a bearing and it's welded itself to the axle or cut a groove and you need to bust the bearing out of there. Any other suggestions???

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Unless you are at a place where you have access to a new (different) rear wheel and final drive, either try to make other arrangements to get home or button it back up and "limp" home on the bike. The damage is pretty much done, taking it apart without replacement parts will only cripple the bike completely. If you decide to ride it home, choose the most direct route home, select a speed between 55 and 66 MPH, go easy on the gear changes, stay in 5th gear as much as possible. Even if the axle is burned in two pieces, the final drive will keep the rear wheel from "dropping off". If you decide to catch a bus home and trailer the bike home later, than that's a very smart move as well.

Either way, this will be a vacation to remember! Good luck to you! If you decide you want to take the rear apart, Contact me and I will describe what it will take to get it apart and what parts you will need.

Earl

Edited by skydoc_17
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Earl, I agree--I decided that seeing as we own an E-350 van and my son could get a day off work with no problem, that he could drive the van down here and we could rent a trailer and haul it back home. When I hit the axle soundly and it wouldn't budge I decided that I didn't really want to take it apart until it was home in MY garage. Then I can do whatever is needed to get it apart and see exactly what happened.

 

Condor, thanks for the suggestion, but no torches here.....when I get home.

 

 

BTW, I had the rear wheel off about 3000 miles ago and before I put it back on I checked the bearings---smooth as silk then.

 

The Venture also developed another problem---a grounded alternator stator. I've been driving with the radio, intercom, CB, and cruise all turned off and being carelful not to drive through a lot of traffic. At interstate speed it charges barely enough to get by. We could have made it home with this, but not the crunching noises when you turn corners at slow speeds. Maybe I should switch to brand 'H'.

 

Frank

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Hey Frank,

Excellent Idea! No harm done playing it safe and getting the bike to a place where you can work on it properly. You didn't mention how many miles on the bike. I have seen the wheel bearing freeze up a few times on these bikes. Cut the axle in two between the aluminum caliper mount and the wheel, (I use a cut off friction blade but a hack saw will do the job)The big head end of the axle should come out now. Remove the bolts for the final drive and slide the rear wheel and the final drive out together. The final drive should slide off of the axle shaft at this point.

Drive the axle out of the rear wheel towards the right side, if you are lucky, the wheel bearing will come out of the rear wheel with the axle. I can help with new bearings or a new axle. Feel free to PM me if you have questions or need parts. Good luck with this project,:thumbsup2:

Earl

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Barb, my son Frank, me, and the bike are all home safe. I'm really upset that the bike had to become a trailer queen to come home though. I guess I can't be too upset---it did get us safe and sound to our daughter's house, but....

 

The wheel bearings wasn't the only problem the bike had though, just the crippling blow. On Friday, August 27th we left home (northern Illinois) and had a great ride down U.S. 41 to Evansville before we got on the interstate and arrived at our daughter's late that afternoon. The next day I rode the bike to both of our grandson's football games. I had to stop to call my wife on the cellphone to find out what part of the park they were in. When I went to restart it, the starter drive started to disengage. I tried it a couple of times and it started. I had had it disengage a couple of times over the last year and a half that I've owned it, but this was worse. In fact I don't think I'd had any problem at all this riding season. Anyway, I knew I'd be repairing the starter drive when we got home. On Monday we left my daughter's and went down to Marietta GA. to visit my cousin. The bike ran great and the starter clutch was back on good behavior. The 2 days we were there, the bike rested in his garage. Wednesday morning we left and headed up to the Georgia Dragon and northward on backroads. We enjoyed the twisties and grades. That night when we pulled into Anderson S.C. the first motel we tried didn't have any rooms. The cooling fan was on when I'd shut it down, and when I started it up the starter drive gave me problems again. We found a room and I ran out for some ice tea----the bike was hot, but hard to crank over, especially with the drive giving me fits. When we left the next morning, the bike cranked over pretty slow before it started. Then I noticed that the bikes voltage was a bit low. When I got on the interstate, it came up some, but not to it's normal spot. I could see that it was high enough that the battery was charging a little, so we kept on going. I just turned off the radio, intercom, CB, and cruise control. When we got to the North Carolina welcome center I heard some strange noises from the back of the bike---I guess this was the bearings but it didn't sound like a bearing going bad. It sounded like an old Dunlop tire with a lot of miles on it making it's noise when you turned at low speed--except I've got an Avon on the rear. I looked at the tire--looked fine. I put it on the center stand and couldn't find any indications of problems---no play or noises. A little later it started to get the shaft unit whine when I let off the gas slightly. This was only when the shaft unit was HOT (94 degrees out and running 75-80 MPH for a couple of hours). The noises gradually got worse and when we got Mufreesboro TN., I could feel side to side play in the rear wheel.

 

My son-in-law had a DVM, so I untaped one of the stator to regulator connections (my bike no longer has a plug there) It was grounded. I suppose it could be one of the negative diodes in the regulator shorted, but it's probably a grounded stator. I've got the connections soldered and because of the rear wheel problems I didn't need to look any further then. At least the stator and starter drive are under the same cover.

 

I'M UPSET WITH THIS MOTORCYCLE!!! In the 26 years I rode my 83 it had some problems (2nd gear, grounded stator, broken frame, wrong info from Yamaha on greasing the shaft drive coupling causing it to wear out) but.....we travelled all over the the eastern 2/3 of this fine country and it always got us home. Heck...even the frame broke about 100 feet from my driveway. I bought a low mileage Mk II because I like these bikes and wanted a fresher version. Sorry people, but a second gen. isn't for me. We test rode a Gold Wing and although it's better than a 2nd gen., there isn't quit enough leg and arm room--although now I'm wondering if a different seat would help. Does anybody have any experience with a different seat on a GW?

 

I've written enough...now it's time to go unload the Venture and take the trailer back but I'm thinking about a Wing. Maybe the next version will have a little more room.

 

Frank.

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Sounds like you need to pull that rotor off when you replace the stator and send it up to me for the starter clutch upgrade mod, it's pretty well fried. When you remove the rotor, look on the back side at the clutch and you'll see that the ring is broke.

 

But 9 times out of 10, these beasts WILL get you home........

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Well, it's apart. I cut the axle in 2 on the right side. I had to sacrifice the caliper bracket, then pull the drive unit and wheel as an assembly. It was still a pain to drive the axle out, but my son and I got the wheel separated from the drive unit. The left bearing was toast....all we had left was the outer race and a couple of rollers. The right bearing was intact, but has a bad spot in it (may have happened when we were getting it apart and out). The spacers are damaged from the rear tire running at an angle. Heck, even the back tire has a little cupping on one side from not running straight.

 

Does anybody have a complete rear wheel with axle and spacers and/or a caliper bracket they're interested in selling??

 

I can be contacted at ka9j@comcast.net

 

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

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Well, it's apart. I cut the axle in 2 on the right side. I had to sacrifice the caliper bracket, then pull the drive unit and wheel as an assembly. It was still a pain to drive the axle out, but my son and I got the wheel separated from the drive unit. The left bearing was toast....all we had left was the outer race and a couple of rollers. The right bearing was intact, but has a bad spot in it (may have happened when we were getting it apart and out). The spacers are damaged from the rear tire running at an angle. Heck, even the back tire has a little cupping on one side from not running straight.

 

Does anybody have a complete rear wheel with axle and spacers and/or a caliper bracket they're interested in selling??

 

I can be contacted at ka9j@comcast.net

 

Frank, Crimsom Knight (Chris) is parting out an 88 Venture Royale. I know he still has the complete rear wheel assembly, complete with tire, bearing, rotor, spacers, bracket, etc and it is really good condition. PM him as soon as you can and your search will end

 

 

Thanks,

 

Herb

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This thread got me paranoid again since I have a low almost growl when I decelerate...it goes away when I add some gas. It's not all that loud but I can hear it.

 

I recently had my rear end apart...I didn't take the wheel apart but there was plenty of grease in there...though I cleaned it up and added more. The pumpkin is full of clean synthetic oil...the splines on both ends are greased and both splined shafts are whole...no breaks and very little play.

 

Last night I checked my axle...there is no side to side play and the axle easily turns when the nut and pinch bolt are loosened.

 

I think I'm not going to worry about it anymore. That's one problem with reading threads like this...it makes me paranoid.

 

I guess I'll just keep my eye on it. If I detect any play...then it's time to worry.

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Hi,

 

Glad to hear it all worked out for you. I think you did the right thing trailering the bike home. Thanks for the wake up call!

 

I have already changed the front wheel bearings on both bikes and at 60k and UNKNOWN mileage, I worry about the 26 y.o. rear ones.

 

When I did the fronts, I came across a generic (IE non Yamaha) part number here on VR.org that my local bearing supplier stocked. I got SKF's or similar for about half what Yamaha wanted for the ones they sell as a Yamaha part number.

 

I have no indication that anything is wrong with the rear bearings but I like to sleep nights and stay calm. I also like to stay safe, well as safe as I can on a m/c. ;)

 

How big a job is it to change the rear wheel bearings once you have the wheel off?

 

Are any special tools required?

 

Is there a generic rear bearing part number known?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

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On the front bearings I used a bearing puller from Harbor Freight when I did the '83. Worked pretty good. The '99 is telegraphing a viabration to the grips and the front end is moaning so I'll probbly do that one fairly soon. On the back bearings, although I've never been there, it's my understanding that there's one bearing that can't be replaced generically, and is only available from Yamaha. That's 1stGen info, not sure about 2ndGens??

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I've done this job twice now, once on the 83 and now on the 89. The first time I did it, I couldn't get either bearing out. A friend took a die grinder and cut the outer race of the left bearing until he could break it apart and slide it out. It was a lot of work and there were some marks on the wheel hub when he was through. Then he drove the right side bearing out from the left side. A year or so ago, I also was in Harbor Frieght and they had the blind bearing puller on sale. This slides into the center of the bearing, you tighten up the adjusting nut, and then you use the slide hammer to pull the bearing. I pulled the right side bearing out first because it was intact. I also used the larger attachment to pull the left bearing race, but you could also drive it out from the right side opening--your choice. Then last time I put the bearings in the freezer for a bit, and warmed up the wheel hub with a propane torch. THe bearings both fell into place and once the temperatures equalized were snug as a bug. With this method, you install 1 bearing, wait until it's tight, then heat the 2nd side up and install that bearing. Also, be careful not to forget the spacer that goes between the bearings!!!

 

Here is the bearing puller----

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/?category=&q=blind+bearing+puller

 

I was able to order the updated right side bearing from Motion Industries. I work for a company that does a lot of business with them and it also gets a big discount. The original number was a KOYO 6304Z or it only had one sealed side. Yammie has replaced this bearing with one that's double sealed, so I ordered an SKF6304, but I forgot the last 2 letters that tell you what they call the double sealed bearing. I pick it up tomorrow and I'll update this info. It cost me about $10.50. THe best price I found from Yammie is just shy of $20. The left side bearing must be bought from Yamaha however---they are the exclusive user of this bearing.

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