bkuhr Posted August 25, 2010 Share #26 Posted August 25, 2010 Which relay did you remove, theres 3. If not sure what are the wire colors for this relay. With every think normal ready to start, side stand down, neutral, key on. Plug relay back in--does the relay click? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 25, 2010 Share #27 Posted August 25, 2010 If you removed the side stand relay and it started, the relay is functioning through the contacts as it should. The side stand relay is the only one in the 1st gens that has its contacts closed with no energy to the coil. When the coil gets energized, the contacts open. Put the relay back in socket and hold it in your hand, turn switch on, have some one move side stand up and down. You should feel relay energize and drop out when this is done. The dash indicator works independent of the relay, it should function regardless if relay is in or not. Below is a link to the 1st gen wiring diagrams on this site. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
painterman67 Posted August 25, 2010 Share #28 Posted August 25, 2010 so i pulled the batt. and checked for continuity between ground wire and coil ground. it was good all of them. cranked with side stand down in gear, and in neutral. clutch in and out. this makes me think you kneed to look at the side stand switch. the bike should not crank with the side stand down and the bike in gear without the clutch pulled. Unless Im reading it wrong . If so then I apologise. david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share #29 Posted August 25, 2010 4 u b is the relay no clicking side stand up or down. in gear or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 25, 2010 Share #30 Posted August 25, 2010 4 u b is the relay no clicking side stand up or down. in gear or not. Your not tweeting, try typing it all out. 4 U B Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share #31 Posted August 25, 2010 the number on relay 4 u b. now fuel relay is constantly clicking. going to try replacing them tomarrow. it is getting dark and tough to see. i hate electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 25, 2010 Share #32 Posted August 25, 2010 (edited) 4 U 8 - 0 0 is correct relay. Next, I would look at the side stand switch. It is shown in the attached picture. In this picture the rubber boot is not correctly located. It should be back against the large body of the switch. Watch the switch plunger as you put the side stand up and down. Does it move out? Some one posted here recently that thier switch was hanging up due to the rubber boot. If it looks like it is moving OK, next follow the wire cable back to the connector near the air ride damper adjuster. It will be a 3 prong connector. It will have a Black wire, a Blue with Yellow tracer wire and a Green with Yellow tracer wire. The Black wire is a ground wire. Disconnect the wiring connector. Look for corrosion or bad contacts inside both ends. When the side stand is up, all three of these wires are connected in the switch. When the side stand is down, all three of these wires are disconnected in the switch. With an ohm meter, on the switch end of the connector, connect one lead to the black wire and the other lead to either of the other two wires. You should have 0 ohms with the side stand up and infinite ohms with side stand down. Reading should be the same between black wire & either of other two wires. If it is not, side stand switch is bad. If it is the switch that is bad, I would recommend you get a replacement switch. There are some on here that will say you don't need switch and it can be bypassed, but this switch will save your butt when working if you forget to put side stand up. As far as fuel pump relay clicking, is it the relay in the headlight bucket clicking, or is it the fuel pump itself? Gary Edited August 25, 2010 by dingy corrected ohm reading sentence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share #33 Posted August 25, 2010 it is the relay in the headlight bucket. thank you for the info on the side stand switch i will check that tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share #34 Posted August 25, 2010 how do i bypass switch i can't just unhook it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted August 25, 2010 Share #35 Posted August 25, 2010 A short must be between all three wires. Black is ground, one makes the dash idiot light go out and one goes to the sidestand relay. I have been "surprised" on other bike when I forgot and left the sidestand down when taking off... rather nasty with a beast as big as these... that light is REAL handy !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share #36 Posted August 25, 2010 the dash works like it should lit when the stand is down and off when up. so can i just bypass the relay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 25, 2010 Share #37 Posted August 25, 2010 the dash works like it should lit when the stand is down and off when up. so can i just bypass the relay You can, but if you take off with the stand down you may find 750 lbs of dead weight on top of you. Unlike the linked brakes, this is a safety feature I like. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted August 25, 2010 Share #38 Posted August 25, 2010 I can only second what Dingy said. IT IS a worthy Safety Device. Yes, you could bypass the Problem for a Day or two, but if i'd where in your Shoes, i wouldn't run it that Way over the Weekend. It's not funny going down because of the Side Stand caused your getting air borne. But it's your Skin and your damaged Bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share #39 Posted August 25, 2010 you r right and if i bypass this then what is next. no sense haveing a nice ride if it is jery riged. i must remember i am not rednecking this ride lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share #40 Posted August 26, 2010 wow relays are not cheap by any means . that relay runs 75.00, but i get no reaction from it stand down or up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 26, 2010 Share #41 Posted August 26, 2010 I doubt that the relay is defective, it may be, but unlikely. Did you do the ohm meter testing outlined in post #32 on the sidestand switch, copied next? With an ohm meter, on the switch end of the connector, connect one lead to the black wire and the other lead to either of the other two wires. You should have 0 ohms with the side stand up and infinite ohms with side stand down. Reading should be the same between black wire & either of other two wires. If it is not, side stand switch is bad. If this checks out OK then test the relay next. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT0563.jpg The two terminals to the right side are the coil circuit, with an ohm meter these should read 100 ohms. The two terminals to the left are the contacts, with an ohm meter these should read 0 ohms. Energize the relay with 12v, polarity does not matter, using the two right contacts. Relay should click. If it does, the two contacts on the left should read infinite ohms while relay is energized. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share #42 Posted August 26, 2010 relay never clicks. energized or not. had dealer check it says it is bad. new one on order. thank you for all the help it would have taken me a lot longer to figure this out. THANKS GOES OUT TO: Squeeze, painterman67, KB2RWW, Yammar Dan, bkuhr, Dano, Stevej, Dingy, mbrood i am putting it back together except for top fo front ferring so i can put the relay in, i might sneak a ride in also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted August 26, 2010 Share #43 Posted August 26, 2010 Those dimples in the can/base junction look like they could be straightened so you could pull the can off and see if you can't repair it... it's not going to hurt much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 26, 2010 Share #44 Posted August 26, 2010 There probably is not much that can be done internally to repair it. The coil must be open, only if it opened at the solder connections, could it be repaired, short of rewinding the coil. Other possibility could be contacts arced and welded together. This might be repairable. Below is a picture of the internals of a venture style relay. The relay in the picture has a different contact configuration from the side stand relay. The one shown is a Normally Open configuration. The side stand is a Normally Closed configuration. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/relay3a.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeKanuck Posted August 26, 2010 Share #45 Posted August 26, 2010 Why not just use a standard 5 buck 12v relay? http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRysGNfT13MYAE6IY6W0BoiGucrGcUoNnk9Tjo7FQSb_6UoU-E&t=1&usg=__iJKvJHAE8qyRSQFZqQwVomfiTzc= The middle post is normally closed on the average auto relay. It's certainly easy enough to change the terminals so it would fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 26, 2010 Share #46 Posted August 26, 2010 As opposed to the $75 Yamaha relay. That would have been my choice. Would have been in by now & $70 cheaper. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aedlee Posted August 28, 2010 Author Share #47 Posted August 28, 2010 i am riding again thanks to all your help:thumbsup2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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