Gear Indicator / Neutral

[tpalshadow]

I'm not sure if I shorted something out or what, but when in Neutral the green light goes on, but the gear indicator still reads 1. Do I need to replace a fuse or something. Just a few days ago it would show N like it is supposed to.

 

Thanks,

 

Todd

[Evan]

I am also interested in any comments or advice members may have. My 88VR gradually went from showing neutral to showing 1st gear when actually in neutral with my green neutral light on.

[MiCarl]

I believe the neutral switch (which lights the light) is an entirely different circuit than the gear position switch, which the CMS reads to show the gear you're in. Sounds like your problem is with the position switch, its wiring or the CMS.

[Snaggletooth]

I noticed my '84 has been reading differently lately to. I've had the shifter pedal off more than a couple of times in the last year for different projects so I started there. First thing I found was the scribe mark on the shift rod was not lined up correctly with the cinch space on the shifter control arm. Not by much but enough to make a difference in the reading in the "N" position. Got that lined back up and found the green neutral light was coming on on que but the gear position reading was still not solid. Would flicker a bit. I have been changing the adjusting link on the shifter for the difference in the boots I wear from winter to summer. That also made a difference in the gear postion display. The lower I'd get the pedal, the more solid the position display would be.

 

Couple of things to look at anyway.

[dingy]

I have noticed that occasionally mine will have a discrepancy between the green neutral light and the CMU display.

 

There is only one neutral switch on the 1st gens. It is in the same body as the 1-5 gear indicator & works both the green light & CMU through the same contact.

 

Looking at the wiring diagram, I don't see a stand out suspect to cause this.

 

The gear indicator switch is a grounded connection.

 

A wild a$$ guess might be that the pin may be slightly dirty in side the switch. Combined with a less than perfect crimp connection in the wiring harness, the load of the indicator light in neutral, the CMU is not getting a low enough signal to it to activate the 'N' indicator. The '1-5' work OK due to not having the load of the bulb in their circuits.

 

Gary

[Rocket]

I believe the neutral switch (which lights the light) is an entirely different circuit than the gear position switch, which the CMS reads to show the gear you're in.

 

This sending unit, for both the light & gear position, have been known to loosen up, as in having a few mounting screws loose. Causing poor contact for the gear position indicator &/ light, also creating oil leaks. The plastic body of the unit, cracks, around the screw holes, due to becoming brittle.

 

Masterguns, Condor, Friesman1, has had problems with this sending unit, that I know of.

 

[friesman]

Rocket is right. i have had issues with the indicator switch, as mine had a hairline crack. I assumed the flicker and occasional not lighting up was the switch thats down low beside your left foot behind the gear cover. Wrong! I had the switch replaced this winter and it is better and doesnt sweat oil, the dashlight still occasionally flickers and doesnt always work exactly as it should. The connections were double checked at the indicator switch according to the mechanic working on my bike. I do have another Dash module that i was toying with swapping out, but it really isnt a huge deal as I have kinda learned that its just the way the bike runs.

 

 

Brian

[tpalshadow]

Rocket is right. i have had issues with the indicator switch, as mine had a hairline crack. I assumed the flicker and occasional not lighting up was the switch thats down low beside your left foot behind the gear cover. Wrong! I had the switch replaced this winter and it is better and doesnt sweat oil, the dashlight still occasionally flickers and doesnt always work exactly as it should. The connections were double checked at the indicator switch according to the mechanic working on my bike. I do have another Dash module that i was toying with swapping out, but it really isnt a huge deal as I have kinda learned that its just the way the bike runs.

 

 

Brian

 

Yeah, I probably won't tear into anything right now as the green light still works fine for neutral, just one of those things that doesn't make any sense why one day it would work, then poof the next not!

[mbrood]

The spring loaded pin that slides around the gear selector contact pads, on the gear selector contact assembly, gets worn and misshapen after so many years !!! Might just be a simple replacement is needed

 

Item 11

 

http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=131563,2,0,sport

[dingy]

While out riding tonight, I had a few chances to experiment with the discrepancy between the green neutral light and the CMS 'N' indicator.

 

I have a fairly stiff clutch in the bike, so when I come up to a light I know I'll be at a while I put bike in neutral.

 

Several times when I was stopped I had a blank CMS indication along with the neutral light being lit.

 

I tried several things to get it to sync. What I found was that often, by slightly pulling the clutch or front brake lever would cause the CMS 'N' indicator to display. I also got them to sync once by pressing the cruise 'Cancel' button. The cruise unit was powered on at the time.

 

It would not however, sync by flipping between High & Low beams. I have two 65w bulbs lit on high and only one 65w bulb lit on low, so this would have caused a change in system voltage.

 

The clutch, brake & cruise switches as well as the green neutrl light are all tied to the main positive circuit from the key switch. This circuit being the 'Br' wire on the schematic.

 

What this all means I am not sure of. I still think that possibly a higher than normal resistance crimp connection in the wiring harness might be involved. This winter, while working on the bike, I dismantled a spare harness to use some of the connectors. Some of the crimp connections I came across had 4 or more wires held together by a metal band only, no solder. This type of connection is subject to deteriorating over time.

 

Below is a picture of a typical crimp connection inside the wiring harness.

 

I do not beleive in my case that the problem lies in the neutral switch on the end of the transmission shaft. This is due to the green neutral light being lit whenever it should be. The CMS display and the green light are triggered from the same contact in the neutral switch.

 

Gary

 

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/crimp_005.jpg