type of glue to use?

[oldgoat]

ok maybe not glue but what do you use to repair cracks in the fairing and stuff?

i have heard of plastic repair, pvc glue, plastic bond ect ect.

i have a C shaped crack in my right side fairing where the lower the air tub goes in i think im right there? its the vent on the main part of the big side fairing that help? i dont want to have to remove the fairing and try to get to it from the inside. so can i just repair it from the out side? also is 40 mpg fair for the bike. i did find my poping its a exhaust leak down where on the right where it goes in to the collector main out side one not back one. the chrome shield is missing on that side and a little hole is in the pipe can this be welded?. i can live with it. right now. all in all with all the help i have gotten here. the bike is running well and comming along. and i did one thing i ran out of gas right in the yard but gauge showed one bar? hmmmm then parked it and nothing no bars? put it on reserve still no bar but fired up. so how much gas is in this sucker LOL i think ill just get a can and get some gas as nearest gas is 5 miles. thats what i get for playing and not paying attention.

[Yammer Dan]

Sure thats not drain hole? 40 MPG is fair but can be beat once you learn the Beast. SkyDocs needle mod will help. Got carbs synced yet? I wouldn't repair on outside. If you can get some ABS Pipe glue into crack and hold it togather til it knits that will work and you can keep from getting it all over the place. Just a little and get it into crack good. Then sit and apply pressure for few minutes. Or if you could put clamp on it some way. I have used big bar clamps to hold them togather. Don't overtighten. Glue will soften plastic.

[rod]

For what to use to glue this to that try this site. Rod

 

http://www.thistothat.com/

[Snaggletooth]

Loctite 2 part epoxy for plastics does a great job of bonding on the fairings. Make sure the package states hard plastics or ABS when you buy no matter what brand. I'd say for the best repair you are going to have to pull the fairing. Sand it down, wipe it with alcohol and give it a thick coat. Make sure you allow plenty of time to cure for the best bond.

 

Run masking tape on the outside to hold it together and keep any epoxy from running through the crack.

 

As far as the popping at the pipe joint there is a drain hole in the stock pipes. Any popping of the exhaust will be better, or gone after a sync.

 

4o mpg ain't too bad to start but you can get it up there with some tinkering. As stated the shim kit from Skydoc_17 seems to be doing the trick. I'm going to try it myself.

 

These tanks hold 5.3 gallons total. If you are getting 40 mpg you should be hitting about 140 miles before the warning light comes on and you lose that last bar on the gauge. At that point it should take about 3.5-3.6 gallons to top it back up. A lot of the guys just leave the petcock set for reserve rather than switching back and forth. The petcocks do get stiff with age and tend to leak when you turn them. With the fuel pump on the bike you're not going to need to worry about flooding the carbs like with a gravity feed system.

[Guest byekryam]

What I found recently through my mechanic was a glue called Q Bond. We glued part of the fairing dashboard and it held instantly and was pretty strong. It's an advanced crazy glue with fibers. Until I have problems, I'm sold......

[bongobobny]

I use the 2 part plastic epoxy myself because it really chemically bonds and you can fill in voids, etc. To make a really ;permanent bond, take a dremel tool and cut a v shaped channel on the backside and fill with the epoxy. Doing this gives you much more surface area to bond with the epoxy making it even stronger!