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Can U help find my oil leak? Am I screwed???


jonsmyth

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My 87 model has developed a significant oil leak in the last few months. It does not leak when parked, only when it warms up. It drips about once every 12 seconds, and because of the crossbar that supports the footrests, I could not tell where it was coming from. I thought it was from the shift lever, because it has always leaked a little.

I removed the crossbar. It appears the leak is coming from the middle of the crankcase behind the torx head screw that is directly below the big round sidecover (with the Yamaha logo).

One of the torx crankcase screws was not torqued fully, but the one pictured was.

There is a tiny metal tube under the crankcase and it appears wet. The bottom of the crankcase in the front where the fins are appears dry.

There is a light haze of leakage on the heads as well, shown in the last pic. It wipes off easy and I don't think it has any bearing on the drips.

An I sunk here?

The oil gets all over everything and is a mess. Thanks!

 

:detective:

 

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/xarm.jpg

 

 

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/dripdrip.jpg

 

 

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/tinytube.jpg

 

 

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/dripdrip2.jpg

 

See the drip???

Here is one head....They are all "weeping" a little..:fiddle:http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/headseep.jpg

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Looks like you need some new cam cover gaskets and those bolt rubbers too. They just get hard with age and need replaced.

 

I would also check where the wires come out of the stator cover (big cover on left side), they are notorious for leaking there also.

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Replaceing the Gasket on those covers has always been a problem. The Gaskets leak, the Seal where the wires come from the Stator also leak.

 

About all you can do, it Remove the cover ( ORDER NEW GASKETS, don't even think about trying to make one !!!! )

 

Inspect, and clean the surfaces, and Use a Gasket Sealant that DOES NOT SET UP FAST !!!!

 

Drain All Oil First !!

 

Also on the Rear Case cover, Replace that gasket also and the bottom Allen head bolt on the rear cover, has a Brass, O-Ring Seal. REPLACE that also.

 

Also, when you have the Cover off, Inspect the Lowere Coiles on your STATOR.

IF the Wire Windings, are Burned Black Color, You most likley need a new STator !!

Good time to replace it !!

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No need to drain the Oil while working on the Stator and Middle Drive Gear Cover. Put a 1x4 under the left Leg of the Center Stand and go ahead. There will be little Oil coming out behind both Covers, maybe a Cup full from each Cover.

 

If the Bike's is sitting straight up or slightly tilted to the left you will have Lots of Fun when trying to get the Starter Gear in Place before putting the Cover on.

 

Don't forget the Copper Washer underneath the lowest Bolt on the Middle Drive Gear Cover.

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that looks exactly like my 85 did before I finally gave up and took it in to get the stator wire grommet replaced. I also had a small leak from the oil level sensor at the front of the pan, but the grommet was the owrst one.

 

I understand that its where the stator wire runs out of the compartment. a grommet is sposed to hold the oil back, but somehow oil wicks along the wire and thru osmosis or voodoo it gets thru the grommet and continues its way to the bottom of the bike and then to the ground or along the left lower side of the bike if youre runnin at hiway speeds.

 

Brian

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No need to drain the Oil while working on the Stator and Middle Drive Gear Cover. Put a 1x4 under the left Leg of the Center Stand and go ahead. There will be little Oil coming out behind both Covers, maybe a Cup full from each Cover.

 

If the Bike's is sitting straight up or slightly tilted to the left you will have Lots of Fun when trying to get the Starter Gear in Place before putting the Cover on.

 

Don't forget the Copper Washer underneath the lowest Bolt on the Middle Drive Gear Cover.

 

So I do not have to pull the engine. Great! :innocent-emoticon:

 

Do I need special tools? And if I remember a stator is $400!

 

Guess I will not order that first, but it is putting out low voltage below 2000 rpm, which has been a drag.

 

Thanks, guys!

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The output is temperature dependent. when the bike isw cold, no problem. Once it gets warm, at idle (1100 rpm) it is about 11.5-12 v. If i brake, it draws down lower. Yesterday I was running it hard, the battery charge is low from sitting, at at a stop light it was 8v. I came straight home and put it on the charger. Above 2000 rpm, 14v or more

 

:bawling:

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That sounds pretty much like the Stator. But the R/R could also be the Culprit.

 

Take a Look at both Units and their Connectors. Especially the three Wire Connector between the Stator Wires and the R/R is known to develop a bad Habit of Contact Resitance and this might be a Problem too.

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And if I remember a stator is $400!

 

Guess I will not order that first, but it is putting out low voltage below 2000 rpm, which has been a drag.

 

Thanks, guys!

 

Sounds like you may have dropped one leg, out of three, of the stator.

 

Last year in Cody WY, we priced out stators from the local Yammi Dealer $600.

 

Got 2 stators from Dennis Kirk @ $133. Each (had to repair 2 bikes) We went with the Ricks Motorsport Electrics, as the other make has a spotty durability record. This had good charging, from just above idle speed. BTW we got them overnighted in & installed them the next day.

 

2 sets of gaskets were overnighted in, from the Yammi dealer (stator cover & middle gear cover).

 

Another option is to contact Buckeye Performance & get a re-wound stator, but this usually takes longer. I waited 1.5 months for mine, prior to the PIP & Cody trip. Had I known, about the Ricks Motorsport Electrics stator beforehand, I would have probably gone that route. As it sucks, to cage it while waiting for a stator, to arrive.

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Hi,

 

When I did my stator replace; I put some gasket silicone on the stator wires, when I pulled the last inch of wire into the rubber grommet, to draw it into the grommet around the wire to prevent any possibility of a leak there. Seems to have worked.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Brian H.

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