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K&N Air Filters YES or NO????


Whitlow

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So is it worth going to the K&N Filters on my 03 RSV? Pro's & Con's if any!

I guess it depends on how much you ride. I changed my plugs to iridium plugs, changed oil & filter, installed K&N Filters before a 4k mile summer trip. My gas mileage went from 38mpg to 41mpg. I'd like to think it was in part due to the new filters (they aren't cheap).

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I have used and sold K&N filters (for cars) for a couple decades. I also used to run a chassis dyno shop (Dynojet) for cars. I can say with authority that a K&N filter makes HP, but only at full throttle and for things like drag racing. You won't notice it in regular 1/2 throttle riding/driving, because a regular paper filter will flow plenty of air for that use.

 

As for MPG, K&N tries to claim some MPG benefit, but again, MPG is checked at small throttle openings (most people, no matter how hard they say they drive/ride, probably spend 98% of their time at 1/4 throttle or way less!) and in those cases, again the paper filter flows plenty for zero restriction. (this assumes the paper filter is new or fairly clean.)

 

But the K&N IS a good filter, it filters well, and it is reuseable for many years, and easy to clean.

 

Some K&N filters are meant to replace the stock filter, in that case, replacement is exactly the same as the stock filter. Custom setups of course require you take off the stock setup and install the new one.

 

K&N filters all come properly oiled from the factory, to clean, use the cheapK&N brand kits available at any parts store and clean with the recommended cleaner. spray to soak it, then let it set for 10-15 minutes, and then rinse under a gentle stream of water. NEVER use high pressure air or water on a K&N filter. Let it air dry for several hours, and then put a LIGHT coat of the oil on the pleats. I like the spray oil, just spray the top of each pleat once and let the filter sit 10-15 minutes, then touch up any spots that are not light red.

 

DO NOT over oil! The only way you can contaminate your air sensors/path is to over oil.

 

NOTE: oiled foam filters are infamous for being over-oiled, sometimes from the factory, and this type of filter can easily contaminate your sensors or air path. Again though, properly oiled, they won't be a problem, it is just so easy to over oil the thick foam style fitlers.

 

I like K&N, but the "performance" benefit is small (but still worth it when striving for every last HP, and a bargain in $/HP) and usually just 1-5 hp in most cars for a stock replacement style. Full kits can give more HP depending on how restrictive the stock system is. It takes a good dyno (like a DynoJet) to "see" the improvement, but it is there. And again, don't expect any measureable MPG improvement unless you truly do spend all your time near 100% throttle (impossible unless you live/work on the salt flats!).

 

If you plan on keeping your bike a long time, and do some of your own service, you will be $ ahead with a K&N filter over the long haul. If you trade/sell every year or two, just use a paper filter.

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i have used and sold k&n filters (for cars) for a couple decades. I also used to run a chassis dyno shop (dynojet) for cars. I can say with authority that a k&n filter makes hp, but only at full throttle and for things like drag racing. You won't notice it in regular 1/2 throttle riding/driving, because a regular paper filter will flow plenty of air for that use.

 

As for mpg, k&n tries to claim some mpg benefit, but again, mpg is checked at small throttle openings (most people, no matter how hard they say they drive/ride, probably spend 98% of their time at 1/4 throttle or way less!) and in those cases, again the paper filter flows plenty for zero restriction. (this assumes the paper filter is new or fairly clean.)

 

but the k&n is a good filter, it filters well, and it is reuseable for many years, and easy to clean.

 

Some k&n filters are meant to replace the stock filter, in that case, replacement is exactly the same as the stock filter. Custom setups of course require you take off the stock setup and install the new one.

 

K&n filters all come properly oiled from the factory, to clean, use the cheapk&n brand kits available at any parts store and clean with the recommended cleaner. Spray to soak it, then let it set for 10-15 minutes, and then rinse under a gentle stream of water. Never use high pressure air or water on a k&n filter. Let it air dry for several hours, and then put a light coat of the oil on the pleats. I like the spray oil, just spray the top of each pleat once and let the filter sit 10-15 minutes, then touch up any spots that are not light red.

 

Do not over oil! The only way you can contaminate your air sensors/path is to over oil.

 

Note: Oiled foam filters are infamous for being over-oiled, sometimes from the factory, and this type of filter can easily contaminate your sensors or air path. Again though, properly oiled, they won't be a problem, it is just so easy to over oil the thick foam style fitlers.

 

I like k&n, but the "performance" benefit is small (but still worth it when striving for every last hp, and a bargain in $/hp) and usually just 1-5 hp in most cars for a stock replacement style. Full kits can give more hp depending on how restrictive the stock system is. It takes a good dyno (like a dynojet) to "see" the improvement, but it is there. And again, don't expect any measureable mpg improvement unless you truly do spend all your time near 100% throttle (impossible unless you live/work on the salt flats!).

 

If you plan on keeping your bike a long time, and do some of your own service, you will be $ ahead with a k&n filter over the long haul. If you trade/sell every year or two, just use a paper filter.

 

thanks great reply!!! :)

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So is this what it takes to check and change them?

 

You have to remove the air box to get to the filter. Not hard at all. The 2 screws you see and the intake tube on the back of it. Then there are several screws to open the box to change the filter inside.

And yes K&N's are worth it!

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I don't think there's any performance benefit. I changed because I wanted to use the Star Billet air cleaner covers.

 

Ditto here on the Billet Air covers. Did not ride it many miles before I installed the K&N so I do not know if there is any increase in mileage or performance on the bike.

 

I have them in my Trans Am,Sunfire and truck. If I had it to do over again I would go with stock. Can't really tell any difference on gas mileage. Of course about the time I was installing them they went to 10% alcohol in the gas.

 

I had one on my 99 Ford truck and like Midnightventure...no real improvement in gas mileage...but I did notice a little bit better get up a go.

 

On my VW Diesel...I got about 3 MPG increase with a Stock replacement K&N. That pushed me over 52 MPG hwy mpg. I now average 47 city and highway with the K&N.

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So is it worth going to the K&N Filters on my 03 RSV? Pro's & Con's if any!

 

I would only install K&N airfilters on a bike I racing. They dont filter the air as well as a paper filter which could shorten engine life.

 

I may not be riding my bike properly but I am at wide open throttle about 1% of the time.

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They dont filter the air as well as a paper filter which could shorten engine life.

 

From being on diesel p/u forums (I drive an '04 Cummins powered Ram 3500) I tend to agree with you on that. A lot of diesel owners that have changed to a K&N filter start to notice dirt trails and grit in their intake tubes and I've seen one pic of a turbo impeller where the fins were chewed up from dirt particles that went through it.

But then again there is a HUGE volume and velocity of air being pulled into a diesel. The K&N MAY do an acceptable job on the lower volume going through our bikes. I don't know.

I resisted going to a K&N on my Road Star but the factory filter is made so cheaply that it's known to come apart. I figured in that case the K&N was acceptable. And again, it may be just fine on our bikes.

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I have done white glove (OK, white shop towel, really clean ones) on my intake tracts for years, and never seen anything at all using K&N filters.

 

One way to test this is to do oil analysis. If an air filter is letting dirt past, it shows up quickly in an oil analysis in the Silicon numbers.

 

On one of my cars, this number shot up one test, and I checked my K&N filter, yep, it was mounted such that a hole was rubbed in it. I sealed it with some gasket maker, and the number went back down.

 

I know there are those that claim a K&N won't filter as well as paper, but I have never seen any evidence of this that holds up. Like anything though, it depends on being properly mounted, properly maintained. If in doubt, use a factory style paper filter. The difference on a 80 to 120 hp engine is minimal. on a 500 hp race engine the difference is a lot more, but to the vast majority of us that just ride like normal people, a HP or two is never going to be noticed or missed.

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To the best of my knowledge there has not been a published test result from an independent laboratory, but there is THIS at Bob is the oil guy....

 

 

UPDATE:

 

I found THIS at the Duramax website.

 

Pay attention to the Accumulative Gain table where the AC Delco filter (paper) passed .4 grams of dirt while the K&N filter passed 7.0 grams of dirt. This is a 1,650% increase in dirt flow. I wish my bank would offer that kind of interest, but I don't want that much dirt passing into my engine.

 

 

Another great point from the caption of the Dirt Passed Versus Total Test Time chart

 

Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt.

 

I wish this test was done with the fine dirt too.....

 

Yes the paper filter had higher restriction to airflow than the K&N, but that would probably only come into play at WOT, and I only spend 1% or less of my riding time at WOT...........

 

I'll stay with factory filtering, until there is a product that filters better than stock...

Edited by KiteSquid
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Dang! I've been using K&N filters since I can remember, and I've never lost any motor vehicle to any kind of failure. But, this conversation makes me kinda wonder how long the vehicles lasted after I sold them. Every once in a while I see my old Couger on the road, but I never get an opportunity to talk to the guy.

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