Would Like to Share MY Findings Brakes/Clutch

[JOE MCDERMOTT]

In last 3 yrs have had First Gen and Second Generation Bikes 85 and 2000MM..85 with 18,000 miles and 2000 with 30,000.

Both of these bikes I decided to dive in and make sure brakes and

calipers are in good condition.

Taking all calipers apart on both I found dirt and corrision that

would not allow pistons to travel freely as they are suppose too.

This was causing a server drag and causing a noise to travel up

thru fairing and a you could feel it thru frame slightly.

This is on both bikes..

The 85 I have been driving 3 yrs and with clutch just decided to bleed

system for I did not want to go any farther into taking it apart

at start and it worked...Wrong thing to do guys

Well wish I would have and over the years become hard to shift to a

point this year I could not upshift or downshift.

Also want to make a Point that on my 2000 MM which by the way have

only had 1 week today and was ready to get rid of.

I have looked at a lot of Forums and will tell you that my 2000 MM after

do front brakes makes a Lot Less Noise and while driving bike last

night heard some light vibration at times coming thru the frame.

The rear brakes I had just change Dot 4 in them and today removed

the caliper and found the same thing with dirt and corrision .

Going for a ride this afternoon and will keep you informed on rear.

My girlffriend loves the ride on my 2000 vs the 85 and I am trying

everthing to keep this bike..

I have changed the front tire to MT 90- 16 and tightened the steering neck bearings and it has changed it 75% to make me happy.

But last nights ride I still feel I need to change handle bars to wider

ones for me to be comfortable.

I feel I need more leverage for I am kind of thin and do not have strong

upper body for the way this bike makes me feel coming to stop and low speed maneuvering with the bike being so top heavy.

Happy Riding and Do Your Maintenance Work To Keep Bike Safe..

Special note I remembered taking calipers apart....if you are having sticky pistons I found that the Alum Body Forging

on the back side has 3 fingers that had caused a melting and this made a really rough deposit on these 3 fingers.

It had a deposit of 1/8 to 3/16"..This would be a tell tale af a problem..Sorry I did not include this earlier.

Just bought this bike and trying in one week to fix this bike to like it or sell it.

Also if you are a person who has Tinnitis ( Ringing In the Ears ) you should make sure you wear ear plugs

or do not buy this bike because the high pitch whine really affects this problem..

Thanks for this Forum and really do enjoy all of you who are here and show interest.

[GeorgeS]

Give it some time and miles, I think you will get used to it.

 

All bikes are different, I think after a couple thousand miles you will feel different about it.

 

Look at it this way, its not better or worse then your past rides, just different.

[Monsta]

That's the thing about motorcycle brakes. They aren't "enclosed" or protected by the wheel like a car/truck brake system is. Diligent maintenance is required at least yearly (IMHO) to keep the pistons clean and free of road grime.

 

I don't know the size and shape of your body but have you tried to move the bars up or won to see if there is a sweet spot somewhere? I know there isn't much "UP" travel...or even down for that matter but it may help. Changing bars means changing all the cables and maybe the lines too. It could get pricey.

[big red]

speaking of brakes, ichanged the fluid today as part of my 50,000 mile maintance. had no problems with the rear brakes but i CAN NOT get a front brake . i'm bleading clean fluid now but the lever goes clear to the handle bars with out any stopping power any sugestions??????

[KiteSquid]

you have air in the line....

 

Bleed them again, and make sure the reservoir does NOT run dry during the progress.

[Condor]

To get the air out of the lines of the front master you need to be real aggressive when bleeding. It's almost a two man operation. One person pumps the 'h' out of the lever and the other cracks the bleeder valve, and don't stop to take a breether. If done slowly the air will remain suspended in the lines as it continually wants to rise as you are trying to pump it down. The other alternative is to reverse bleed the system by forcing fluid into the caliper and up into the master reserve. I've had to resort to this every once in awhile. Do a search for reverse on this forum for a more detailed explanation.

[Denden]

speaking of brakes, ichanged the fluid today as part of my 50,000 mile maintance. had no problems with the rear brakes but i CAN NOT get a front brake . i'm bleading clean fluid now but the lever goes clear to the handle bars with out any stopping power any sugestions??????

Try this...with the bike on sidestand, turn the handlebars so the brake reservoir is at the highest point. Then tape or bungee cord the brake handle as far in as you can. Let it sit like that overnight. The air in the system will rise to the reservoir, but with the handle in, it won't enter the reservoir. Then SLOWLY release the brake handle. Let it sit for about an hour. Then test you brake.

[big red]

thank for all the help!! i'm headed back to the garage now so that i can ride soon. thanks again esp. to joe .

[Monsta]

Are you using a one-man brake bleeder tool? It has a one way valve at the end. It only allows air and fluid to escape but not enter. It's a simple tool but has made swapping fluid a breeze...for me anyway.

[JOE MCDERMOTT]

I use a vacuum pump for brakes and fill reservior and

pump vacuum pump 6 times then open bleeder on

caliper..

This still requires time to do this.

But it works and can do it by myself..

[RedRider]

You may want to invest in a set of speed bleeders. Check the forums for source. They make bleeding the brakes/clutch very simple as a one man job. And they are quite inexpensive.

 

RR

[Condor]

You may want to invest in a set of speed bleeders. Check the forums for source. They make bleeding the brakes/clutch very simple as a one man job. And they are quite inexpensive.RR

 

I've had the Speed Bleeders installed on one of the 83's for about 2 years now, and they do make life a lot easier when bleeding the brakes or clutch..... if you don't have any air in the lines. Once the lines are air free it's a piece of cake.

[CrazyHorse]

I've had the Speed Bleeders installed on one of the 83's for about 2 years now, and they do make life a lot easier when bleeding the brakes or clutch..... if you don't have any air in the lines. Once the lines are air free it's a piece of cake.

I agree totally I put new ss lines on and speed bleeders. I could not get them to bleed. Took off speed bleeders put old ones on opened them and used a mityvac to suck fluid through lines. Then put speed bleeders on worked like a charm.

[GeorgeS]

I bought one of these tools about 8 years ago. Use it on car brakes, and both bikes. The thing is Great, best money I ever spent on a tool.