Oldseadog Posted May 16, 2009 Share #1 Posted May 16, 2009 Today on the way to work I had a problem shifting gears. This afternoon when I put the bike in gear it would creep forward and stall unless I kept therevs up. I knew it was a problem with the clutch. I went to the nearest bike shop and added some DOT 3 fluid to the clutch system but the problem didn't go away. So now after struggling to get home on crazy traffic and reading the service manual i know I need to bleed the clutch. So How do I do that? I should also flush the system as what is in there looked nasty. What is the best way to do the flush and bleed the lines? I appreciate and and all help I can get on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted May 16, 2009 Share #2 Posted May 16, 2009 Dawg, The clutch bleeder is under the rubber boot that is on the left side behind the rear cylinder. To bleed the system, make sure your master cylinder is full and I usually push a length of clear tubing over the bleeder's opening and put the other end in a container to catch the old brake fluid. Then (and it helps to have a 2nd person) pull the clutch in, open the bleeder, close the bleeder after the fluid comes out, THEN release the clutch lever. Pump it a couple of times, and repeat until no air comes out with the fluid. If you want to flush the system it helps to have a vacuum bleeder. Use it suck all of the fluid out of the bleeder. Then fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid and draw it into the actuating cylinder with the vacuum bleeder. You can't really get all of the fluid out by drawing it out of the bleeder, so you may want to flush it twice. Without the vacuum bleeder, it's difficult to get the clutch master cylinder to draw the fresh brake fluid into a dry system. Some have held the clutch master cylinder pulled in by binding it and leaving it overnight to re-fill the system with out the vacuum bleeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted May 16, 2009 Share #3 Posted May 16, 2009 If you're going to be doing your own service get a mity vac or knock off http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92474 Actually, when I looked that up I also found this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92924. I've used a similar system from a company called Vacula (at $150+). I have no idea what the quality of this unit is, but I'll be checking it out next time I'm at Harbor Freight. When flushing fluid it's not necessary to drain the system first. I like to suck the fluid from the master cylinder (although you can also use a clean paper towel) and refill with fresh fluid. Draw fluid through the drain nipple (keep master cylinder full). Continue until the fluid exiting is as clear as the new fluid going in. The advantage to not draining the system is you don't introduce any air which can be difficult to get out. You can also use the pump and hold system mentioned above (where you pump the lever, hold it, open screw, close screw and repeat) without draining the system. It's a long day to flush the system using this method though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted May 16, 2009 Share #4 Posted May 16, 2009 A speed bleederis a lot cheaper than a vacujm bleder, and works fine as long as the system already has some fluid in it. For the clutch, plan on wasting about a pint to properly and completely bleed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted May 16, 2009 Share #5 Posted May 16, 2009 You might as well, order a Clutch Master Rebuild kit, and order a New Clutch Slave cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket Posted May 16, 2009 Share #6 Posted May 16, 2009 A speed bleederis a lot cheaper than a vacujm bleder, and works fine as long as the system already has some fluid in it. For the clutch, plan on wasting about a pint to properly and completely bleed... Bill, if yo go this way. You will want the 8 x 1.25L, both Esquimalt Auto & Lordco has been good at getting them in for me, in the past. These are not a must have, but are a nice to have item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funrider Posted May 16, 2009 Share #7 Posted May 16, 2009 Had the same problem with mine last year, bleed it out with fresh fluid and haven't had a problem since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted May 16, 2009 Share #8 Posted May 16, 2009 obviously, if the existing fluid looks like cola...it's going to need more than just a bleeding. If you do replace the slave cylinder...then consider replacing the hydra-line with SS teflon. You'll need approx. a 64" piece and a straight banjo for the slave and a 35 degree for the master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldseadog Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share #9 Posted May 17, 2009 I want to thank everyone for their replies. Now I some bike work to do this weekend after all the yardwork gets done. Once again thanks everyone for your advice, I'm totally greatfull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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