Sunman Posted April 28, 2009 Share #1 Posted April 28, 2009 I have some questions that I cannot find reference to in any articles so far. I just did my spring maintainence, oil, filter and final drive oil. I am really glad that I got the Carbon 1 lift adaptor, it made my life so much easier, doing all this by myself. With the bike still on the side stand, I drained the oil, and removed the old oil filter. This is the first question What exactly is that "rectifier" piece that blocks the oil filter at the front? What a pain in the ass that is, and could they not have given us like 1/2 inch more, so we could get a socket on the cap for the oil filter? The manual says to take it off to get access to the oil filter, but I just manage with a strap type oil filter wrench, although that is a pain as well. Well, I bought a new yamaha oil filter (last time I do that $14, they can kiss my ) Well I have a case of 10-40 oil from a friend, no friction modifiers. I also had about a litre of 20-50 left in a 4L jug of yamalube (first oil change) and a litre of 10-40 yamalube (second oil change) so I just tossed them both in (waste not want not) and topped off with the penzzoil 10-40. Second question, Does anyone think that mixing the viscosities, and oils will affect anything? I just didn't want to waste that oil. I guess I am a cheap ass when you get right down to it. I changed the oil filter, and put the plug with new crush gasket ($2 for that. Does anyone know of a better place to buy them?) Then I took off my left saddle bag, easy job thanks to Dragerman and the hand tightening bolts he gave me. Then I drained the final drive oil. I changed it last year too, I don't think that it can be changed too often can it? The drain bolt had what appeared to be some kind of grease all over it, I wiped it clean and re-installed it. 3rd question, was I supposed to add some kind of grease to the plug? I then affixed my lift adaptor to the bike, and jacked it up. Carbon 1 lift adaptor worked flawlessly. I affixed the legs to the adaptor, and removed my jack. Now I set to refilling all the fluids I drained. With the bike level and upright, was a breeze. First I filled the rear end drive oil. I filled it to the bottom of the fill hole using an oil syringe I got at walmart. It just did not seem to be as much as I put in last time. So I spun the rear wheel by hand in neutral. The oil got sucked up in the drive, I left it for a bit with the wheel stopped, and very slowly the oil level was visible again at the bottom of the fill bolt hole. I spun it again, and when the level dropped, I added more oil maybe 50 ml more, and put the plug back in quickly and tightened. Question 4, will overfilling the final drive a bit, cause me any problems? I filled the engine oil as well, no problems there, and checking the level was a breeze. Usually that is the biggest pain for me, doing it by myself. So, any answers to my silly questions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
similost Posted April 28, 2009 Share #2 Posted April 28, 2009 I wouldn't over fill the final drive. Pressure can build as the oil heats and can be hard on the seals. I would only put in what the manual states.. I believe it's .2L As far as the stator in the way.. I've always said that design engineers should have to work in a shop for a year or two before they can start designing things. I bet if they had to wrench on things they would think a little bit more before they said it looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted April 28, 2009 Share #3 Posted April 28, 2009 Mixing different viscosities of the same brand of oil will be fine, but mixing different brands of oil is a big no no. Each brand will use it's own mix of additives and sometimes the additives will not mix with each other. This was a big problem with Quaker State for a while. The final drive is vented. It won't build pressure. Overfilling it will only result is some oil being pushed out on the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoutman Posted April 28, 2009 Share #4 Posted April 28, 2009 The rectifier is there so it can get some cool air. It can get pretty hot when the electrical system is under full load. Being a solid state device the heat can kill it so they put it in the air flow. I don't remove the rectifier when I change the oil. I use an oil filter wrench that is similar to a large pair of channel lock pliers. The filter comes off with just enough room to clear the rectifier. I've yet to find a strap wrench that will fit a filter that small, and that is the same filter as my son's Nissan pickup truck, hense the pliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted April 28, 2009 Share #5 Posted April 28, 2009 What exactly is that "rectifier" piece that blocks the oil filter at the front? I don't know, but if you look on page H11 of the parts catalog, the rectifier is part number 37. To remove my oil filter I use a pliers type filter remover. Click HERE to see the pair I bought at Harbor Freight (HF) Caveat emptor as HF to me is cheep tools sold inexpensively. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/36700-36799/36778.GIF There are others on the market but they probably cost more, and might be of higher quality. I use mine only on my RSV, as on my cages I can use a strap type oil filter wrench, so for the price, it was a good deal for me. KD Tools makes one for $35 and it has more teeth to grab the filter, Cal-Van tools has some in several sizes for $15 to $26, but one of them looks a lot like the one from HF, Channellock has a nice one for $18. Craftsman has one for $20. IIRC I paid $7 for the HF tool, but it might have been on sale, or I used a coupon, or asked for a Military Discount...... Does anyone think that mixing the viscosities, and oils will affect anything? It probably will not hurt. was I supposed to add some kind of grease to the plug? NO, what you probably saw on the drain plug was a mixture of gear lube and metal shavings, as the thing that sticks out of the plug is a magnet. It is normal to see a small amount of metal filings there, but if they are big or excessive, you should check the gears!!!!! will overfilling the final drive a bit, cause me any problems? I would only fill to Yamaha's spec for the reasons stated by others above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarges46 Posted April 28, 2009 Share #6 Posted April 28, 2009 For filters....if you get into the US head for the wallymart and see if you can get their...supertech filters....they are cheap (I bought a bunch for around 1.99 on sale). They are also a good filter. ST7317. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragerman Posted April 28, 2009 Share #7 Posted April 28, 2009 Check out this sight "Bob is the Oil Guy"... some good info on it and there are also links to some good chat forums.... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70&Itemid=71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoyinMS Posted April 28, 2009 Share #8 Posted April 28, 2009 Oil drain plug washer. Local Honda car dealer. Part# 94109-14000 We sell them for .32 cents each and keep 100-200 on hand all the time. I'm a huge tightwad but no way will I mix oil... unless I'm using it as bar oil for my chainsaw. The rear diff is vented so the little extra that you added won't hurt anything. It may push a little out the vent. And the rectifier is part of the charging system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted April 28, 2009 Share #9 Posted April 28, 2009 I just use my Craftsman Rubber Strap wrench to remove the oil filter. Works every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToRide1 Posted April 28, 2009 Share #10 Posted April 28, 2009 For filters....if you get into the US head for the wallymart and see if you can get their...supertech filters....they are cheap (I bought a bunch for around 1.99 on sale). They are also a good filter. ST7317. Yes they are very well made and a very good buy, there are some that will argue buying some other filter at much greater expense and while it may be a good filter they are not gaining anything. There are a few filters out there that should be avoided as its been proven they have defects the manufacture is not willing to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
similost Posted April 28, 2009 Share #11 Posted April 28, 2009 This is the fileter I use on my Roadie. I'll be buying one for the Venture too... Scotts Performance Filter LOVE IT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToRide1 Posted April 28, 2009 Share #12 Posted April 28, 2009 Yes its a grease, and any here seen or have used any of the new synthetic grar lube's like Moble 1, its a 70w-90 LS now what the [LS] rating is I'm not sure this is a new to me and GL5 has been around for some time and in wide use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
similost Posted April 28, 2009 Share #13 Posted April 28, 2009 Yes its a grease, and any here seen or have used any of the new synthetic grar lube's like Moble 1, its a 70w-90 LS now what the [LS] rating is I'm not sure this is a new to me and GL5 has been around for some time and in wide use. I use the 70-90 Mobile 1 in the transfer case on my Roadie. I just bought a bottle last night to use in the final drive of the Venture. I'll be changing it in the next couple nights... It made a big difference in the noise coming from the transfer case on my R*. Good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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