looking at 85 have ?'s

[englishwheeler]

I M new here been reading about VR going to look at a 85 later today 40.000+ miles.

A couple of ?'s Owner says bike has couple of issues right fork seal leaking. Runs a little ruff when you start warms up, smooths out after it warms up. He said it seems to have a little miss. also air system dose not seem to work display shoes no reading. Fairing has a issue at mounting location. needs to be cleaned up price.. $1.000.00. any quick info any one could give B4 I go look at it

[Yammer Dan]

Good Bikes. We can help you thru repairs. Sea- Foam it first. Ask how long since tune-up. If you can turn a wrench it won't be bad.

[bongobobny]

I'd say jump on it!!! It's worth that much just in parts alone. Fork seals aren't that big a deal to replace if you have any mechanical experience. The rough running may be fixed with a couple of cans of Seafoam and a new set of plugs and wires. You should probably have the carbs sync'ed after the seafoam treatment. There is also a possibility that the rubber diaphragms on the carbs have developed pin holes and may need replacing.

 

There is an issue with 2nd gear on the '83's, the '84's, and the early '85's. I forget the actual serial number but it was somewhere in the 1400's that are the cut off. There is also a possibility that yours, being an '85 had that fixed under warranty a long long time ago. The issue is a thrust washer that was too flimsy and is replaced with a beefier one. All that happens is that it pops out of 2nd under hard acceleration. Some members just skip 2nd if it becomes a problem. We are talking around $800 to replace a $10 part...

 

OK these bikes are good for way over 100,000 miles and are one of the most comfortable rides around. With ANY bike that age, you are going to have rubber parts that will give problems, such as the fiork seals, etc. It will be a good idea to flush both the brake system and xlutch system as this SHOULD be routine maintenance on ANY bike. The only downside is that the 1st gens are a tall bike but I'm sure you have discovered that by swinging a leg over.

 

Bottom line, take it for a ride if you haven't already, and buy it. They normally would go for twice that price. You will find we are a bunch of knowledgeable people here and very very helpful (Except for some of those dreaded 2nd gen owners...) and a bunch of great fun loving people here Good luck and welcome aboard!

[Condor]

 

There is an issue with 2nd gear on the '83's, the '84's, and the early '85's. I forget the actual serial number but it was somewhere in the 1400's that are the cut off.

 

#1417

[6m459]

Well, did ya ?

[englishwheeler]

Yes I Did!!! will post pics has some cosmtic issues right side fairing has some cracks got some epoxy. rear brake was a little sticky. replaced brake fluid and bleed working good now. Turkey Baster worked real good to fill. That was a neet idea someone sugested. Class system not working was unpluged, I pluged back up got the E-4 code will did into it later. Raido will come on some times it will cut off then come back on probly conection. It had been sitting picked sea foam. added a 1/2 can filled with super. Misses and pops at higher RPM's. Dose not smoke. Dose need fork seals, going to see if I can find some one near Lenoir NC that might guide through the process. Just asked my daughter to take some pics but here batterys are dead pics hace to wait.

[KarlS]

When I got my 83 radio cut on and off and got same E code. Found out problem was broken contact in ign switch. Fixed switch and all was good. Mine also missed and popped, checked diaphragms and found one had came apart due to stuck slide. freed up the slide, put diaphragm back together and all was good.

Edited April 12, 2009 by KarlS
added content

[englishwheeler]

Here are some pics of my new old 85 VR

[6m459]

Congrats! I am sure you will be happy with your new Venture. I just love my old gals bike3 and bike4. I can't wait to get them out on the road again this year !

 

I have some pix of one of my forays into the world of Venture fork seals posted here. By no means a detailed 'how to' but it might give you a sense of what you're in for.

 

One, well OK a few, bits of other advice I'd pass along are as follows:

 

I'd be sure to replace the fork bushings as well as the seals while you have the forks apart. The extra cost is negligible and at this age they will need it no matter what they look like. This extra step will prolong the life of your new fork seals.

 

Also, the OEM fork springs have to go. If your bike has the OEM fork springs, spend the $100 on a pair of progressives it'll be money well spent. If your front end bottoms out at all on bumps, you'll know that you have the OEM forks.

 

The OEM fuse box also needs to be scrapped and replaced if not already done. I'd do the swap regardless of any electrical problems at present, you'll be glad you did. I put a picture of my reworked fuse box here. I used a pair of Littlefuse part #03500417XP's ganged together. One of these setups has been in flawless service for about 5 years now and I did the second one as a matter of course when I bought the second bike. The OEM fuse box is CRAP. The swap isn't difficult if you approach it methodically. It'll give you peace of mind and buys you space for extra fuses to add more electrical stuff. Mine sits neatly on top of the battery and is just tall enough to touch the inside of the cover which helps to hold it in place. I'll be glad to advise on doing the swap if you'd like.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

Welcome new Venture Rider!

 

Brian H.

Uxbridge Ont

[englishwheeler]

Yes I will B getting back to you on the fuse box issue yes will step up to progressive srings.

[Marcarl]

An 85 eh? the best horse in the stall,,, best color,,,,best seats,,,,best motor,,,,best trunk,,,and now you're on the best site as well.

If you have time, do yourself a favour and take all the plastic off so you can see all the cracks that have come to pass. There'll be plenty! best time to fix them is now, before you start to loose bits and pieces. You can wait 'til next winter as well, but if you take something off, be prepared to fix as you go.

[Yammer Dan]

An 85 eh? the best horse in the stall,,, best color,,,,best seats,,,,best motor,,,,best trunk,,,and now you're on the best site as well.

If you have time, do yourself a favour and take all the plastic off so you can see all the cracks that have come to pass. There'll be plenty! best time to fix them is now, before you start to loose bits and pieces. You can wait 'til next winter as well, but if you take something off, be prepared to fix as you go.

 

When doing a bike that has been sitting a while I put a whole can of Sea-foam to about a 1/4 tank of gas or less to really clean things out. Put it in run a little to get it in carbs good. leave sit at least overnight then run it til you run it almost empty before you fill it up.

[6m459]

Hi,

 

has some cosmtic issues right side fairing has some cracks

 

I'd suggest this plastic repair stuff: Plastex

 

Its not cheap, although not outrageously expensive either, but it does amazing repairs once you get the technique figured out.

 

Thanks to a bodge up of a P.O.'s radio installation, the LHS dash panel on my bike4 came to me in about 4 pieces, some of which had fallen down and had been given up as lost inside the rest of the faring. With the Plastex, I was able to piece it back together again and it is now serviceable and looks quite presentable, on the topside at least.

 

Also, for out of sight repairs, I have had very good results with that Mighty Putty stuff, of annoying infomercial fame.

 

It sounds silly, but it really does work well with the plastic on 1st gen Ventures. I was originally buying it as Permatex PermaPoxy Plastic & Fiberglass Sticks but that became unavailable. Turns out it is also marketed as Mighty Putty, or so I have proposed and concluded.

 

I use it some times on its own and also in conjunction with the fibreglass dry wall tape that is 2" wide roll of fibreglass mesh of about 1/16" squares.

 

I have, well had, a crack in the plastic piece that goes horizontally immediately above the riders right foot from below the knee vent, out to the piece that runs abeam across under the radiator. The crack was right in the turn from vertical to horizontal below the knee vent. The crack was 2/3 of the way across the piece so things were getting flappy and I had to do something.

 

After cleaning the plastic surface with acetone, I used the M/P behind the scenes and out of sight smeared across the crack. I guess the thickness of the patch must be 1/16" to 3/32". Its still holding and all feels good and secure now many miles later. That was my test piece.

 

Since then, I have also rebuilt several of the fairing tabs that the dash panels anchor to, on both of my Ventures. I embed a hex nut right into the M/P so I have metal threads in my repairs. Seems to work, but requires a bit of patience as I build up a tab, let it harden, then drill it and then add the nut behind the tab in another wad of the M/P.

 

Well, hope this is of some interest. Hope you have fun too.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.