tiny84 Posted August 9, 2007 Share #1 Posted August 9, 2007 ok my 84 venture royale is running realy rich. you can smell the raw fuel when its running and mileage is down under 30 MPG. I've been running seafoam through it every other tankfull but it hasn't effected the MPG to much if at all. bike is running great aside from that. I love the bike but currently its costing me more then driveing my car. any idea where i can adjust how much fuel is being dumped into the engine or what ellse I should be doing to improve my MPG issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted August 9, 2007 Share #2 Posted August 9, 2007 What do plugs look like? Might be time for plugs, wires and caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share #3 Posted August 9, 2007 plugs are brand new had to replace them as the old ones were fouled. I guess I can replace the plug wires now too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted August 9, 2007 Share #4 Posted August 9, 2007 Hi, could you please give us a brief Statement about your Bike ? As i remember, there was a Diskussion in another Thread, you mentioned that you're running 4 single Filters, constantly under Seafoam and with at least one patched Diaphragm ? You wanted to bring in the Airbox in and remove the single Filters, did you ? Where Plugs new before or after beginning with Seafoam ? Is the Slide sticking lately or not ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share #5 Posted August 10, 2007 Hi, could you please give us a brief Statement about your Bike ? As i remember, there was a Diskussion in another Thread, you mentioned that you're running 4 single Filters, constantly under Seafoam and with at least one patched Diaphragm ? You wanted to bring in the Airbox in and remove the single Filters, did you ? Where Plugs new before or after beginning with Seafoam ? Is the Slide sticking lately or not ? I am back to the stock airbox and running much smoother now, I was running sea foam in every other tank full, and the diaphram is not sticking any longer, checked it right before putting the stock airbox back on.Plugs were replaced after i had been running the seafoam for a week or so. I'd normaly just wait and see as the bike had been sitting for 6 years but 24mpg is getting pricy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted August 10, 2007 Share #6 Posted August 10, 2007 What are your driving habits and what is your daily ride like? I agree 24 is unacceptable, but I have gotten as low as that 2-up, 80+ on Interstate on a VERY hot day (107 F). Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share #7 Posted August 10, 2007 That was the other day it was a lil warm but nothing major it was all highway speeds (5th gear 75mph) for the most part with about 10 miles intown on the 90 mile trip from work and back. I just feel with the bike running so smooth that it has to be some way of leaning out the A/F mix to burn less gas and produce more HP cause it is a lil bogged down at higher speeds 75 in 5th is about all she can do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted August 10, 2007 Share #8 Posted August 10, 2007 "75 in 5th is about all she can do" Yeah, something's wrong. I had my 87 up to 115 after slide replacement, others report going faster. Which brings up a point - slides / diaphragms. I don't remember what was posted earlier - have you removed all the slides to inspect the diaphragms for cracks? 3 of my 4 were bad, and the fourth had been replaced at some point (the new ones look slightly different from the originals). Replacing them did help my top end, but not my mileage as I had hoped. But back to basics here. Compression test. Carbs synced. Strong spark at all 4. Float levels. Are you sure the stock airbox is all hooked up correctly (vents and such)? Did you put on the individual air filters, or was it like that when you bought it? If so, they may have changed the jetting in the carbs to really rich. When you pull the slides to inspect, remove a needle and see if it is stock and seated correctly. Somebody may have shimmed them way up. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share #9 Posted August 10, 2007 "75 in 5th is about all she can do" Yeah, something's wrong. I had my 87 up to 115 after slide replacement, others report going faster. Which brings up a point - slides / diaphragms. I don't remember what was posted earlier - have you removed all the slides to inspect the diaphragms for cracks? 3 of my 4 were bad, and the fourth had been replaced at some point (the new ones look slightly different from the originals). Replacing them did help my top end, but not my mileage as I had hoped. But back to basics here. Compression test. Carbs synced. Strong spark at all 4. Float levels. Are you sure the stock airbox is all hooked up correctly (vents and such)? Did you put on the individual air filters, or was it like that when you bought it? If so, they may have changed the jetting in the carbs to really rich. When you pull the slides to inspect, remove a needle and see if it is stock and seated correctly. Somebody may have shimmed them way up. Jeremy Ok inspected all 4 slides repaired one of them as it was cracked, honestly not sure how to do a compresion test or carb synce, spark is strong. The bike was not modified by previouse owner (my father isn't much for changing stuff) so the needles and jest are stock as well as everything ellse on the bike. I put the air filters on there myself as it added some get up and go on my old ninja i had been working on till i got the venture. I'll go back and look at the air box though I might not have the breather tube hooked back on the box as I cant remember fighting with it and it doesn't seem like something that would just go back on easly. how much would a local yama dealer charge for carb synch and compression test do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted August 10, 2007 Share #10 Posted August 10, 2007 I dunno, but both are easy and I bet for the price you pay the stealer you could buy both tools. I think a halfway decent comp gage can be bought for $25, and a mercury stick set for under $40. Then you can do all the compression and carbs you want! Float levels? Also easy to check, and all you need is a piece of clear vinyl tubing 1/4" diamter, about a foot long. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share #11 Posted August 10, 2007 And what do i do with this piece of clear vinyl tubing? sorry but there is still alot i'm ignorant of when it comes to motorcycle repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted August 10, 2007 Share #12 Posted August 10, 2007 Hi, i'd suggest some serious Crab(didn't misspell that) cleaning and a check of everything afterwards. Wrong Float Level can bring the mpg down, but this far? I doubt that. After the Bike sitted that long, Seafoam can work some Kind of Wonders, but not on the Air-Jets and the Air Ducts. And what do i do with this piece of clear vinyl tubing? sorry but there is still alot i'm ignorant of when it comes to motorcycle repair. You plug them to the Draining Hoses and open the Drain-Valves on the Carb-Bowls. The the Ign-Switch to ON and they Fuel Pum will do what she has to do. Fill the Bowl and the Tubing.When the Pumps stops you can measure the Float Hight versus the Mark on the Side of the Diaphragm-Bowl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted August 10, 2007 Share #13 Posted August 10, 2007 ok i know my bike still isn't running great yet but i was kinda curious at what RPMs you all are at when your leaving a stop? my bike seems to want to try and stall if i'm under 3500 rpms. just want to know if this is way off from what everyone ellse has to do with there 1st gen This is from a third Thread you started at 07/29/2007 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13137 Man, i understand that your Kind of afraid of messing with the Carbs, especially when you have no other Ride or Cage. But, as long as you do not give the Carbs a serious Maintainance, you can not expect anything more as they are performing right now. The Ammount of extra Money in Gas you're burning every Day, makes a Day of prepared Work and some Parts going more far away than anything else. Get yourself a Balancing Tool, i'd prefer neither Mercury Stick or Carbtune, just four plain simple old styled Dial Guages and clean the Carbs and synchronize them and be pleased. If you're willing to afford the extra 25 Bucks for a Compression Tester, ok, go for it. But better go for Guages first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share #14 Posted August 10, 2007 ok this might be obvious but is it possible to synch the carbs still in the bike or do i need to pull em out? sorry I guess I still dont realy know how one synchs the carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted August 10, 2007 Share #15 Posted August 10, 2007 Squeeze is right. You need a service manual, conviently located electronically on this site. Also, for carb sync, I almost forgot - some guys make their own for about 2 bucks. It consists of several feet of clear tubing with gear oil in it, looped down and up on a board. I'm sure there are posts here with pictures. You connect one end to carb#2, which is the baseline carb. Then connect the other end to #1 and adjust 'til the oil is not trying to move one way or the other. Repeat for 4 and 3 in that order, I think. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted August 10, 2007 Share #16 Posted August 10, 2007 ok this might be obvious but is it possible to synch the carbs still in the bike or do i need to pull em out? sorry I guess I still dont realy know how one synchs the carbs. You can synchronize the Carbs only on the Bike and running on Idle or some RpM above Idle. But, again, it won't help much if done before cleaning the Carbs .... Download the Workshop Manual, the Source can be found here in the 1Gen Tech Section and read the Carb-Section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share #17 Posted August 10, 2007 Ok I was just checking this out http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002010&id=166 and from what i've seen i know why the bike is burning gas like a fat man at a chilli cook off. in our persuit to get the idle right I think i turned the wrong screw and threw off the synch. i'll be investigating this further and i'll try and get intouch with my buddy who works on bikes see what kinda timeframe and how many beers i'll need to get the job done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted August 11, 2007 Share #18 Posted August 11, 2007 Have you checked the setting of the Idle mixture needle jets ? Also, if you are going to keep rideing this bike, a carb sync tool is a very good investment. There are 3 sync screws, one on left, two on right side. If anybody has been haveing a field day with these adjustments, and not useing the correct tool, ???? I have never moved mine more then about + or - 10 degrees of rotation. ( use that as a ref: point ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now