Condor Posted February 24, 2009 Share #1 Posted February 24, 2009 Ok, gotta a question. Will the forks off a MkII fit a MkI without any physical alterations.. Just want to make absolutely sure... I'm aware of the difference in AD's. The reason I'm asking is to make doublely sure before sending off a spare set of MkII forks to RACETECH and have their suspension valves installed for the '83. When this is done there will no longer be a need for the AD's so it's a moot point. Some time ago Rick Butler refered me to these guys and gave great feedback on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted February 24, 2009 Share #2 Posted February 24, 2009 Racetech is a good Idea and the MKII Forklegs will fit without any Problems on a MKI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted February 24, 2009 I knew you'd have the answer Squeeze.... Thanks!! Just wanted to be absolutely sure.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted February 24, 2009 Share #4 Posted February 24, 2009 You're welcome!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyHorse Posted February 24, 2009 Share #5 Posted February 24, 2009 Ok, gotta a question. Will the forks off a MkII fit a MkI without any physical alterations.. Just want to make absolutely sure... I'm aware of the difference in AD's. The reason I'm asking is to make doublely sure before sending off a spare set of MkII forks to RACETECH and have their suspension valves installed for the '83. When this is done there will no longer be a need for the AD's so it's a moot point. Some time ago Rick Butler refered me to these guys and gave great feedback on them. Hw much is this? and what are they doing? and can one do it themselves? I'm looking at dumping class system altogether with a rear progressive shock also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Daddy Posted February 24, 2009 Share #6 Posted February 24, 2009 I did this swap and the racetech cartridge emulators on my 83 (swapped to 86 front end) Money well spent. Plus the new brakes are far superior to the old ones! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share #7 Posted February 25, 2009 I did this swap and the racetech cartridge emulators on my 83 (swapped to 86 front end) Money well spent. Plus the new brakes are far superior to the old ones! Jeeese, I forgot about that!! I'll finally get to use that set of R1 calipers I have in my stash. Even have a set of MKII rotors. Did you do the installation yourself, or have them do it?? And do you still have the CLASS air hooked up to the front forks?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted February 25, 2009 Copied this off the Racetech Service dept page. Buy Gold Valve Kits, High Performance Springs, and Ultra Slick Suspension Fluids and install them yourself. (If you get stuck call your Tech Support 951.279.6655.) Hey, if you're really into it check out our Suspension Seminars. Send your shock and forks to Race Tech. Have your local Race Tech Center install them. Have your local dealer do the work. http://www.racetech.com/SubMenu.asp?cMenu=7&c=Yes&showPage=service Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Daddy Posted February 25, 2009 Share #9 Posted February 25, 2009 Jeeese, I forgot about that!! I'll finally get to use that set of R1 calipers I have in my stash. Even have a set of MKII rotors. Did you do the installation yourself, or have them do it?? And do you still have the CLASS air hooked up to the front forks?? I did it myself. Not that difficult really, just time consuming! As far as the class system my bike is a standard and never had the compressor. I had previously replaced the air with progressive springs and I just kept those. Racetech recommended straight rate springs and if I ever get around to it I will try them also. Those guys really know their stuff IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted February 25, 2009 I did it myself. Not that difficult really, just time consuming! As far as the class system my bike is a standard and never had the compressor. I had previously replaced the air with progressive springs and I just kept those. Racetech recommended straight rate springs and if I ever get around to it I will try them also. Those guys really know their stuff IMHO. Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, after reading about the Valve Emulater it looks like it's a straight drop in with the spring holding it in place. So installing it myself is do-able. I also have progressives, but might try a set of their springs too. I can put the pro-springs in another bike. Or I might just put the set up in the '91, and leave the '83 alone Decisions .... decisions?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted February 25, 2009 Share #11 Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, after reading about the Valve Emulater it looks like it's a straight drop in with the spring holding it in place. So installing it myself is do-able. I also have progressives, but might try a set of their springs too. I can put the pro-springs in another bike. Or I might just put the set up in the '91, and leave the '83 alone Decisions .... decisions?? Now, i didn't check the Instructions out recently, but when i did Years ago, they said you gotta give the Borings a bigger Hole before installing the Gold Valves ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted February 25, 2009 Now, i didn't check the Instructions out recently, but when i did Years ago, they said you gotta give the Borings a bigger Hole before installing the Gold Valves ? That may no longer be the case Squeeze. If there was any machining involved I'd be dead in the water, but the explanation RaceTech posted on the imulaters make it sound like it's nothing more than dropping them in place. http://www.racetech.com/popupwindow/GoldValveCartridgeEmulators.asp Now you may be thinking about installing the original Gold Valves in a racing fork......??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Daddy Posted February 26, 2009 Share #13 Posted February 26, 2009 Now, i didn't check the Instructions out recently, but when i did Years ago, they said you gotta give the Borings a bigger Hole before installing the Gold Valves ? I did mine last year and yes you do need to add some additional flow to the bottom of the system but I did mine with a hand drill. Just follow the instructions included to lay out the additional holes, use a punch to set the center and work your way up in drill diameters. Dont be skeerd it aint that hard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted February 26, 2009 Share #14 Posted February 26, 2009 I did mine last year and yes you do need to add some additional flow to the bottom of the system but I did mine with a hand drill. Just follow the instructions included to lay out the additional holes, use a punch to set the center and work your way up in drill diameters. Dont be skeerd it aint that hard! Be assured, I'm not scared at all, at least nothing what these Bikes could offer me as a Challenge. :crackup::thumbsup2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted February 26, 2009 Share #15 Posted February 26, 2009 That may no longer be the case Squeeze. If there was any machining involved I'd be dead in the water, but the explanation RaceTech posted on the imulaters make it sound like it's nothing more than dropping them in place. http://www.racetech.com/popupwindow/GoldValveCartridgeEmulators.asp Now you may be thinking about installing the original Gold Valves in a racing fork......??? Condor, this is easy to answer. I you want to your new mounted "whatever" hydraulic Valve to take over control, you have to give them Room to work. If you just drop the new Parts in and do nothing else, the Orifices designed by Yamaha stay in charge and you jsut add up on more Orifices. You have to open a up the stock Orifices(bore a bigger Hole) to allow the new Valves control the hydraulic Flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Butler Posted February 27, 2009 Share #16 Posted February 27, 2009 Condor, I've installed probably 5 sets of Race Tech Cartridge Emulators, the first in my 93. And won't ride a set of dampening set of forks without them. But you completely destroy the dampening rod when you drill 6 (I think) 5/16" holes in each dampening rod. This also results in your anti-dive units becoming completely usless. In fact this would be a good time to take them off and fashion a cover, especially with the 88-93 1300s with the anti-dive on the side. Then the dampening rod just becomes a method to flow as much oil as possible through it to the valve on the top of the rod. This devise is a pop-off valve that is so responsive that for the most part, the bumps just go away. And you can go back to a lighter oil to get more action. But it's critical to get a new set of springs if you haven't already, where Progressives are a decent option. But my option would be a set of 1.20 kg/mm constant rate springs from Race-Tech or Sonic Springs. Hope this helps, Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share #17 Posted February 27, 2009 So... Rick. The forks still need to be taken apart. Yes?? I've never been into a fork, and don't know didily. But then again I can drill holes with the bet of them. Will I need anything special, tool wise, to tackle the job?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Butler Posted February 28, 2009 Share #18 Posted February 28, 2009 Well, They don't neccessarily need to be completely separated. If you already have new seals, all you need to do is take the bolt out of the bottom that holds the dampening rod. Then you can turn the fork upside down and the damening rod will slide out. But if the seals have not been changed in a while, I would go ahead and seperate them. Special tools? You have read all of the post about replacing seals...something to hold the inner dampening rod while taking the allen bolt out. Then a seal driver. But on drilling the extra holes in the dampening rod, a drill press with a small vise to hold the rod while you drill it would be nice. But I think you could use a hand drill if that's all you had available. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkbarrick Posted March 3, 2009 Share #19 Posted March 3, 2009 Great info here...thanks...I am a novice looking for direction regarding the air suspension system on my 83 venture royale. The local shop passed on doing anything with it, so I may have no recourse but to take wrench in hand. Where to start? Any tech threads that might shed some light? Where are the weak links in the system? (places to start checking) Are there parts out there? Is the air system necessary, or can a shock sys. from Progressive or some other supplier replace the air sys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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